I have a Phaeton V8, and at idle I can feel a slight rumbling in the cabin. Just slight, but I always imagined that you wouldn't be able to feel the engine idling clearly in the shaking of the cabin. Is everyone's like this?
View 8 RepliesWhen I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
Driving along last night and suddenly slightly oily smell in cabin. Then notice oil pressure drops from normal 82 ish to about 25. Recovers to about 70 by time I get to Waitrose (about ten mins). Park up and do shopping. Move car and check for oil patch - none found. Drive home and pressure still lower than usual - but recovers to just under normal. No warning lights - open oil filler cap and seems to be some in there. No oil leak found.
View 6 RepliesI've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
View 2 RepliesWhen driving the car on the highway in speeds around 130/140 km I experience after an hour or so a sort of rumbling in the front, possibly right hand side, of the car. It feels like a broken wheel bearing (quick vibration). If I stop the car completely and let it rest for a few minutes I can go driving and the situation occurs again after 20-30 minutes.
The vibration occurs when using the pedal. If driving without pushing the pedal the vibration and the rumbling noise is nearly missing. Strangely the situation is worst while searing towards left.
When driving for several hours without any stops the situation comes and goes. The car does not have any visible signs of any downside of the suspension. I started the car after parking it for two months with external battery supply (both batteries new as of 2013)
On daily short drives the problem has not occurred so far. My guess is a possible leak?
Since we took ownership of our 2009 v6 there has been a rumble when going over bumps in the road. A certain amount of this I have put down to the big alloys and low profile tyres, but have always suspected that there was something else amiss.
Today I took her into our local Phaeton garage and asked them to investigate. They has hinted at worn drop links. However after checking everything out in the ramp they can find nothing wrong. They even replaced one if the drop links (whatever they are).
So they came up with nothing wrong but could still here the rumble when driving over un-even surfaces. When I change to sport mode I think the rumble gets less, where to look or what could be wrong.
On my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai santa fe 2.4l with 94k miles. when sitting at a idle it has a slight vibration in the cabin, feels like a slightly rough idle, when you drive the vibration is gone. I also had it throw misfire codes for cyl 2 and 4. I put in new plugs and changed the wires, coils are on the way. When the car is in drive and I put the parking brake on and walk up to the motor it sounds like it has a exhaust manifold leak, but I only hear it when in drive. I guess my question is, could this exhaust leak be causing the rough idle or will this be fixed once the new coils are on?
View 18 RepliesLooking at a V10 that I thought I might buy.... but it has an odd noise from the steering column. Noise is present when the engine is running - and is there whilst driving. However if, when stationary, you hold either side of the wheel and just move it fractionally, the noise goes away completely.
The noise sounds a bit like gas escaping from a pipe, or more accurately reminds me of the noise of gas being throttled like in a regrigeration circuit. Although I don't think it's anything to do with the air con. The car has the electrically adjustable column... but playing with this has now effect either.
Accessing the evaporator drain / Liquid "sloshing" sound in cabin. finally figured out how to do this, at least for the passenger side. Look at the picture of michael's trick for reinstallation of J523. Right next to the cable that gets pulled as a trick, you can see the rubber drain hose. The soft rubber hose connects to the plastic drain of the main HVAC assembly right there. Just pull it off and the backwater can flow right out into a bucket. Then you can unclog, make sure the soft rubber hose is not getting pinched, etc.
Arrow points at passenger side evaporator drain...
From time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.
90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.
If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.
After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.
This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.
Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.
I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.
How do you avoid air (fresh??) thru closed vents? I switched the a/c off and cold air was coming in thru the closed vents. Then I turned the fan on, the vents open and I put it in Economy with the air coming from the upper panel (windshield), then shut off the fan and the vents closed. But cold air was still coming by the "closed" vents. How do you avoid that?
View 23 RepliesAfter I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
View 1 RepliesMy car smells like some plastic part is burning inside. The heat works just fine but for some reason i am getting this horrible smell. How to get to air filter of the fan.
View 5 RepliesI went in for an oil change and told them to visually inspect the car for a water leak. There was another phaeton in the shop with a water problem that was costing the customer thousands so I thought they might be able to see a red flag. I get the car back and they told me they blew air through the sunroof vents.
I've had the passenger foot well carpet up to monitor the floor to see if water has been leaking since I sealed around a couple batter terminal points that went through the firewall, and it had been dry.
But I had a feeling blowing that air through the vents might have dislodged the hose from the connector, so I put some water through the sunroof vent, and it totally started pouring into the footwell. It had NEVER done that when pouring water through the sunroof vent when I was diagnosing it before.
I feel like the dealer made the problem worse by blowing air down there, and now the dash is probably going to have to come out, and i'm assuming they will make me pay for it.
On my way home from work today, I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and could even feel it in the shifter when stopped in drive at a light or stop sign. the car was fully warmed up and this was still happening. I don't really recall this before, but noticed it tonight as my hand felt it.
side note - I did do some spirited driving with a friend on Thursday, (two days ago) but drove the car yesterday and didn't notice the issue. I was thinking maybe I damaged something, but then again I would have felt it yesterday. so I sure hope not. Again its not a very harsh constant vibration but very slight but enough to get my attention. when I switch the car to neutral it stops and back to drive it starts again.
I purchased a 2006 V-8 several months ago, and am enjoying it greatly. One thing I noticed after I bought the car is that the cabin trunk switch does not work to open the trunk. I was not too concerned since the key switch worked, so I figured I'd get the dealer to fix it when I next took it in for servicing. Well, now the trunk button won't work on any of my keys either. I think I may have held the button down too long and then it froze after trying again several times. So the bottom line is that I cannot open the trunk. Just to be clear the trunk is closed, so any remedy that requires that the trunk be open is impractical.
View 6 RepliesPurchased a 2004 w12 several months ago , awesome cruiser.
The only fault it now has is the interior lights no longer come on when opening the drivers door and before putting the key in the ignition . I changed the comfort battery last month the old one being completely dead.
The dome interior lights will come on if the key IS in the ignition with door OPEN and go off when door is closed , the reading lights come on if you press the roof buttons but again only if ignition key in lock.
This is inconvenient as you cant find the ignition lock easily in the pitch dark. I searched the forum and one post was useful for resetting the interior light sequence ,but it didnt work when I tried it.
The procedure may have missed something out,as forum members know that the smallest step missed causes a problem.
Looking for the correct procedure to follow for the re sequencing of the interior lights. Trunk/boot light works as do puddle lights when door opened without key in ignition.
The cabin light system in the roof for the rear passengers stopped working in my car a few weeks ago. The red ambient lighting that lights up the buttons still works, and one of the buttons lights up yellow (the one that controls whether or not the lights should turn on when the doors are opened). However, pressing any of the buttons has no effect whatsoever (although it did momentarily light up one of the side lights once or twice). The big cabin light and the two reading lights on the side refuse to light up.
According to my local Phaeton Center, the control module responsible for the rear cabin light system is not working correctly. They told me that replacing this module will cost me around 1000, including labour. This is a bit pricy for a few cabin lights, so I'd like to know if this is a known problem or if there is any way I could poke at some wires or whatever myself in an attempt to fix this without having to sponsor my local service center. The cabin lights in the front, including the sliding roof controls, work perfectly. It's only the ones in the back which have the problem.
In my 7, if I hit the roof console center light button, it would illuminate both the front of the cabin, and my accent lights in the rear cabin, allowing me to see the kids in the back at night or ensure they have light if they can't find something.
On the Phaeton, I have not yet been able to figure out how the driver can turn on the rear cabin lights. I have the lights set on to come on when the door opens, but obviously that isn't an option underway. Is there a way for the driver to illuminate the whole cabin from the drivers seat?