Phaeton :: Slight Hesitation When Changing Gear From 1 To 2 And Noticeable From 2 To 3
Apr 21, 2016
Phaeton 3.0 tdi ... For some time i have been noticing that the car has a slight hesitation when changing gear from 1 to 2 and barely noticeable from 2 to 3, but as the car gets warmer the hesitation becomes shorter, I don't know if it really is a hesitation , it mostly feels at light acceleration before the oil gets to operating temperature and feels like it slips for like a half second before engages second gear , but as the car warms up it gets better , the car has about 230.000 km , since i bought it i put 50.000 km and did not change the transmission fluid and i guess that before me no one changed it, VW says that the atf should not be changed and many people say that it could make it worse, what the problem is and should I change the Transmission fluid ?
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I have a mysterious problem with the BMW 335d concerning the engine. The dealer detected a "miss" in the cylinders based on the check engine light, but there is no real drive problem. However, I have noticed a slight hesitation and noticeable reduction is fuel mileage. They don't really know what it is but suggested replacing the fuel injectors, in case that is the problem. And if not, maybe it needs cylinder head replacement. That seemed to be a rather expensive (for me) way to diagnose the problem. I can't believe that BMW somewhere has seen this problem before.
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When upshifting into 5th gear there is a slight hesitation before actually going into gear? I do not have this issue with any other gears!
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I believe the main thing I needed to do was get the dealer to "re-flash" the system? I just need some expertise on this so I could tell the dealer what I need done, because I do not have an educated dealer to take this car to.....not their fault, they never have seen a Phaeton hardly.
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I'm noticing just the slightest 'hitch' in power delivery in second gear at about 1,500 rpm. My speculation is that this is the torque converter locking up.
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2003 Hyundai GLS
Starts fine, loud motorboat like noise ... then car hesitates when put in any gear for a few seconds before moving ... then drives fine. Slight shutter at low speeds 30 and under....hit the expressway and its all good. Is that the fuel pump, a relay, what? It has a brand new radiator, gasket, thermostat and cover...so its not the cooling system.
Also...the check engine light is on, the pcm code says its only issue is the cat con...I don't think this issue is related cuz it was already on when the radiator killed in the middle of the highway....the noise is new. The hesitating isn't....that's been going on since before the check engine light came on....but its getting worse.
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Noticed this a few times. 2004 V10 and when it changes down to first gear it does it with a thump. almost feels like the car has stalled. Doesn't do it all the time but now I am looking for it I find it.
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I am experiencing a slight bump when up-shifting from 1-2nd and back, sometimes with hi-er revs, sometimes just a delay followed with a "bump". A quote from an indy mechanic came at around $4500... (as I have 2004 4,2) he thinks seals are not soft / flexible any more therefore at lower speeds not allowing enough oil to go through... or something like that ( I`m not sure how that all works...)
Most of the similar threads indicate a flush first and if no improvement than a complete re & re.
Interesting enough, I went to VW dealer for a second opinion and they said that getting an individual parts for transmission repair is impossible for them, rather a whole unit only?!
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I'm having with the first startup in the morning. The car turns over fine, but when I accelerate there is a noticeable hesitation. This was only occurring for the first 20 seconds, when I accelerate out of my driveway. Now, it has gotten progressively worse. Still not stalling or anything like that, but it has become more pronounced. I have an APR stage 1+ with a Carbonio intake. Others mention they were experiencing a similar situation. I have tried idling before shutting the car off as well as letting the car sit for 30 seconds after I start her up. Im wondering if I disconnect the battery and allow the ECU to reset might work.
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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I am about to acquire a Silver 2004 v8 Phaeton with 83000 mi. There is an issue that the owner is going to fix, but he and his Phaeton mechanic have not yet diagnosed correctly. It is a hum that comes and goes with a periodicity of about once a second (as in "waa waa waa ...") , seems to be coming from the left front. It becomes noticeable around 45 mph and as the speed increases it gets a bit louder and pitch gets higher but the waa waa ... interval does not speed up. Of course it might be speeding up so slowly that seems to be constant but doesn't seem that way.
They have replaced the tires and the LF wheel bearing. I know there are some wheel bearing issues and that is the usual suspect, but wouldn't a wheel bearing make a constant "waaaaa" and not a repeating harmonic "waa waa waa..."?
Also a harmonic resonance, which this seems to be requires 2 inputs, which are not quite at the same frequency. So I had thought about the cv joints, inner vs outer. I had the car on a lift with a mechanic that I have worked with for some time (german car specialist), and the cv boots were in good shape, so it seems unlikely that the cv joint(s) are bad as they usually (to my knowledge, which could be incorrect) do not fail unless the boot gets damaged and lube leaks out and dirt gets in.
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Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
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My 08 3.0 tdi is back in the dealer again, 8 months of ownership and it's been off the road 8 weeks in total now. Started with a warbling whining noise from under the car, that is only noticeable under load up hill in 5th, it worse the steeper the hill and more weight in the car, can also be made to do it on the flat whilst towing my boat.
Dealer initially diagnosed a failed bearing in the gearbox and it was replaced under warranty at 59500mls - lucky escape for me. Unfortunately this did not cure the problem and after months of further inspections and enquries the diff was also replaced - to no affect! Much hand wringing unsued from the embarrassed and fed up dealership and they decide to replace the propshaft - still to no affect
I now have a new problem with the air conditioning - the condenser has corroded through under the paint next to one of the mounting lugs, not what you expect on a vehicle of this quality - this is going to be a substantial bill for something that shouldn't have failed on a vehicle that not even reached it's 3rd birthday!
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I'm bringing the car in for a seat belt recall and I'm having them look/listen for a heavy valve clatter under WOT. I noticed this before and mentioned it to them, but of course they couldn't find anything wrong.
BUt it's a very noticeable clatter in 1st and sometimes second, embarrassing actually. The other morning when my GF started it saw a big blue cloud of smoke and she said it ran really rough. Is there some issue with the right bank or any bank on the engine? THere's no way that this engine should sound like that. I thought maybe it was because I was running 87, but most here said they didn't notice anything, and a "knock" doesn't sound like clatter. I also tried running 91 for a few tanks and nothing changed.
We actually like the car, but the amount of problems has been a little disheartening. I think more that when I go to the dealer I feel like they don't even know how to use a wrench.
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2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
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Been having loads of fun with my Excursion. I've completely gone through the rear axle, new Yukon 4.30 ring and pinion and "ALL" new Timken bearings. I set the pinion at 30 inch pounds preload. Back lash is 13 thousands. But now I have a gear whine during acceleration. Slight at first but more noticeable near 50mph. Coasting or decel is quite. But just barely touch the gas pedal and it starts to whine.
I know that the backlash spec is published as 6-10 but other sources state 12-15 thousands. So that's why it's set at 13. Gear pattern looked great to me. In fact most changes I tried had little effect. So is it just normal for a gear set to whine until broken in?? Should I reset the backlash down. I only have about 40 miles on it. But would like to fix before it's wrecks something.
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Noticed A Slight Hesitation On Take off?
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So I have noticed a slight hesitation from a stand still. I press the gas and there is a slight delay(maybe less then a second) before something happens. It also does not do it every time, it is pretty random.
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I'm having a sight hesitation @ around 4100rpm when getting on the highway, it is not noticeable in 1st or second, a bit in 3rd, and 4th though. It seems almost like the acceleration stops for 1/2 a second then continues normally.
2007 2.0T FSI, automatic. 71,000KM ( like 40k miles?)
New plugs(problem existed b4 plugs)
new air filter ( K&N Drop in )
new oil & was just seafoamed.
This problem was there before all of that too. What it could be?
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T Gas 2WD Tiptronic Auto.
I noticed a while back on a cold morning that at first start the idle would seem off a bit.
I only would notice it for about a couple of minutes and then it would smooth out as I began to drive.
Lately that still happens some but mainly I have some hesitation or slight jerking as I accelerate now.
Mainly it will do it while starting to take off slowly/ when pulling a hill/ and when having to maintain a low speed behind many other cars.
I can counter act it a bit by stepping harder on the gas pedal(when there's room) and getting the RPM to go and stay over 2000 like on the highway.
If it is under 2000 RPM you can notice it pretty well.
I am concerned as I have not had this problem before and it is very well maintained and cared for.
Though it is likely due for a tune up...
What could be the most likely cause? I don't really want to take it to the dealer first as they would want a fee beforehand just to check it out.
It had a check engine light on for just a minute one day but it did not stay on.
If it stayed on then I could get the parts store to check it using the OBDII scanner.
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1998 accord 4 cyl auto, mostly on start up and when coming to a stop at a light it sounds like someone is under the floorpan hitting it with a hammer. maybe 5 or 6 hits. I've looked into the exhaust being loose and hitting but it's tight and has good clearance. could it be a broken motor mount letting the engine rock too much? next, SOMETIMES when the trans shifts down into low gear you get a very noticeable clunk and the car kind of shudders. planning on doing a trans drain and fill today. lastly the instrument cluster is a little strange. tach doesn't work at all, speedo is fine as is the gas guage but the temp is erratic. when the temp is acting up you can thump it with your finger and it will jump around.
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