Yesterday I started up my Phaeton after it had been sitting for about almost a week. When it turned over it had a rough idle and also a fuel smell, as I drove it the idle went away. However I have never had this happen before and the fuel smell concerned me.
View 4 RepliesOk new issue that started yesterday only get it at idle. Runs great above idle no real power loss or change in fuel econ. Haven't really had a chance to test much. I was thinking maybe a injector issue but I don't know
View 14 RepliesReplaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
View 7 RepliesI have an 07 gs350 and sometimes when I start the car and sometimes at idle I can smell a little bit of fuel smell and it goes away within a second or two. I smell it more when I start the vehicle.
View 11 RepliesI have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
My 2005 VW GLI has a fuel smell when I turn on the car ... I think it might be running rich or something I don't know.. All I know is I think the fuel and air mixture is not right ... What should I do? what should I check? will a re-tune do anything?
View 2 RepliesI'm hoping it's a small simple fix when I climb under the hood. Has happened before, but was an easy fix. The smell is much stronger this time. Any major problems any of you have had if I can't find the culprit?? Learning as I go...always up for checking on every possibility.
2004 F250 SUPER DUTY 6.0 ......
The carb on my 460 in my truck is acting funny. It almost sounds like a dragster It Idles really rough. I tried setting the Idle mixture screws on the side of the metering block. I bottomed them out and them turned them out 1 1/4 turns. I started turning them in till I got the highest reading on my vacuum gauge, about 13 hg. The screws are only about 1/4 turn from being bottomed out. It was running smoother, then it stalled when I restarted it, it started running really rough again.
The exhaust smells of gas. I turned the screws all the way in just to see what would happen, I thought it should stall but it didn't. I had my timing light hooked up and checked it now and then during all of this and it didn't change at all. The screws had almost no resistance to turning, shouldn't they have some resistance?
Why does my 1990 honda accord smell like ammonia and has a poor idle...
View 2 RepliesWas driving home just now when my car (2003 Dodge Caravan SE) started acting strange. Stopped at a light, it started going back and forth a little, like the transmission was stopping and starting. As I drove I noticed that it kept doing that when I had the accelerator pressed slightly. When I pressed the accelerator more fully, the problem seemed to mostly (not completely) go away.
When I got home (after driving like that for about 2 miles), it seemed worse. When I stopped the car and had it idling in Park, the engine died. I was able to restart the engine, but it seemed like it was having trouble staying on (though it did for a minute or two until I turned it off).
When I got out of the car, I noticed a bad smell coming from the engine, like burning. Also noticed a loud sound, like knocking. My first thought was that I didn't have any oil. So I checked the oil and the transmission fluid. Both were fine. After about an hour I restarted the car, and it wasn't doing it anymore. Maybe because the car had cooled down?
What this might be or what else I can check?
I own a 1996 Buick Regal with 132k miles on it, 3.1L six cylinder. The other day I was doing some general maintenance and noticed that the exhaust smelled like sulfur (rotten eggs). Now, I am loosely familiar with the causes of such a thing but not well enough to diagnose it properly the first time. The car has been idling rough since I got it (almost a year ago now), I have a feeling that it could be the O2 sensor causing the rough idle and the sulfur smell but I am not completely sure. I should have one of those fancy three-part injector cleaners done?
View 6 RepliesAfter all my attempts, I could not fix the rough idle. I have done the gaskets of the gaskets and bolts of the intake manifold (the engine light disappeared), I have changed the bushings of the manifold too (the one one the left side), I have changes the TPS sensor, I have cleaned the MAF sensor...
The rough idle is still there (and getting worse) and there is some smell of gasoline now. I suspect that I have to change sparks and cables, but I wanted to confirm first with you because the whole thing seems complicated as some of the plugs are buried very "conveniently". You could usually feel an ascending vibration while waiting at the traffic light. You can't feel it as much when in neutral, but it is still there.
I have noticed that on the right side of the Intake manifold (under the throttle) there is some sort of greasy substance that always looks wet. I suspect that it is burnt oil, but that think's been there since I bought the car, so I am not sure if it is related in any way.
I haven't changed the oil and air filter since last summer but I doubt that would be an issue. Additionally I realized that I put pure antifreeze when I need to use 50/50. Anyways, those things I will fix this summer anyways. All I want to fix now is the rough idle because these vibrations drive me nuts.
I own a 2001 Buick Century Limited that has 208k miles on it. A couple days ago I started the car up at a friends house and noticed that it had a loud rough idle and that the check engine light came on. When I drove the car home, the CEL would flash when I accelerated and I could smell something burning. When I released the gas pedal and coasted, the flashing CEL would return back to a solid state but I could still smell the burning. When I would accelerate, the CEL would start to flash again. Whenever I was stopped at a stop sign, the flashing CEL would again be solid and there would be a loud rough idle along with the same burning smell. Am I looking at an engine replacement or an easy fix? One problem or could it be multiple problems?
View 9 RepliesI have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
View 12 RepliesAfter the cold hit last night I turned my car on and it starts to shake a lot, also white smoke so I drove it to work while driving it takes forever to pick up speed and jumps speeds on rpm while shaking a lot and then I got off work and now its so hard to turn the wheel now(I put in steering fluid) and still shakes badly. I smelt burning kinda before work and I no I'm due for oil change so I just put oil in atm bcuz I have no time to take it any where atm since I work to full time jobs. Also the Trac off light is on and my service engine light is blinking.
View 2 RepliesI filled up my car at the local gas station. It had been raining non-stop for the past three days and nights. 10-15 minutes later as I'm stopped at a light, the car starts shuddering, almost stalls a few times. Rough idle all the way home.
I limp home, guessing water in the fuel. Next day I go to Advance Auto and buy some fuel additives which are supposed to solve the water problem. The guy there mentions that he's had a number of reports of similar issues from this particular gas station (it's now out of business, go figure). Additives make things better but not fully.
2 tanks of gas later now and the rough idle is much better but not gone. Car seems to have less power and sounds a little bit raspy on acceleration (not noticeable unless driving near a wall which can bounce the sound back). My guess is that one of the cylinders is not firing, maybe needs a new spark plug?
The more worrisome thing is that as the car has started running more smoothly I've also noticed a smell of gas after startup (may still be there when running but I don't notice it then) -- coming from the exhaust. This seems to be in-line with the missing cylinder theory but I'm running blind here as I don't have much experience on this topic.
The car's a 1997 C280. 130K on it. It's old but mechanically the thing has been a tank so far (Inline 6 I think) -- very sturdy and responsive. I'm hoping that this whole ordeal hasn't done permanent damage.
My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
I've been having a curious issue with the engine in the Passat. When I put gas in the car, it generally is hard to start and stalls. This happens once or twice, and then the car runs great. Sometimes the check engine light will come on, but I haven't been able to read the codes. The mechanic said that the car was driveable. I am curious for potential causes and solutions?
View 4 RepliesRecently picked up a 2009 Tiguan with 150.0k kms. I had my shop swap out the old spark plugs shortly after purchase along with oil change and quick go through. Shortly after I had the CEL come on with a read on the #2 injector. Through this time the CEL would come on/stay lit, the car would run rough after start and I could smell gas.
So back to the shop. I swapped out a coil to ensure it wasn't a coil issue with the same result, CEL on injector #2. I had a new injector put in on number #2 along with the new seal received when purchased. While running much more smooth now, I again have the CEL back on again on injector #2. This morning at start up the CEL came on and flashed this time a few times before staying lit. (misfire?).
I've read that it could actually be another injector which is causing #2 to fault but how do I determine which and if this is actually it?