Phaeton :: Rear Cabin Light System Stop Working
Jan 4, 2009
The cabin light system in the roof for the rear passengers stopped working in my car a few weeks ago. The red ambient lighting that lights up the buttons still works, and one of the buttons lights up yellow (the one that controls whether or not the lights should turn on when the doors are opened). However, pressing any of the buttons has no effect whatsoever (although it did momentarily light up one of the side lights once or twice). The big cabin light and the two reading lights on the side refuse to light up.
According to my local Phaeton Center, the control module responsible for the rear cabin light system is not working correctly. They told me that replacing this module will cost me around 1000, including labour. This is a bit pricy for a few cabin lights, so I'd like to know if this is a known problem or if there is any way I could poke at some wires or whatever myself in an attempt to fix this without having to sponsor my local service center. The cabin lights in the front, including the sliding roof controls, work perfectly. It's only the ones in the back which have the problem.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
At the end of my first week of ownership, I encountered problems with the rear cabin light in my car not working properly - sometimes it came on when the doors were opened, and sometimes it did not. I mentioned it to the Phaeton technician at my dealership, and we agreed to just defer investigation and rectification until the car was due to come in for its first oil change.
After I finished putting the start button in, I ran a diagnostic scan on the car, and the problem with the rear cabin dome light was the only remaining fault code. So - I kind of figured "gee, this can't be rocket science to fix", and I removed the rear cabin light assembly from the roof of the car.
I had a close look at it, and found the cause of the problem pretty quickly. When the assembly was put together, the tiny black wire that carries power to the rear cabin interior light button became trapped between the large bus bar that serves as a ground for all the switches and some foam insulation that protects the circuit board from the ground bus bar. The entire assembly would have tested out just fine when it was manufactured, but over time, the vibration encountered in transporting the car from Germany to Canada, and the vibration caused when I drove the car around during my first week of ownership caused the bus bar to cut through the insulation on the wire - hence the short circuit. All I had to do to fix it was just poke the wire out from under the bus bar. Everything works great now.
The fault code that was generated - "Rear Interior Lamp Button - Short to Earth" was absolutely dead-on, and took me directly to the problem. I really doubt if I ever would have found this problem if the car did not have such a competent self-diagnostic system.
View 5 Replies
How do you avoid air (fresh??) thru closed vents? I switched the a/c off and cold air was coming in thru the closed vents. Then I turned the fan on, the vents open and I put it in Economy with the air coming from the upper panel (windshield), then shut off the fan and the vents closed. But cold air was still coming by the "closed" vents. How do you avoid that?
View 23 Replies
I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
View 1 Replies
In my 7, if I hit the roof console center light button, it would illuminate both the front of the cabin, and my accent lights in the rear cabin, allowing me to see the kids in the back at night or ensure they have light if they can't find something.
On the Phaeton, I have not yet been able to figure out how the driver can turn on the rear cabin lights. I have the lights set on to come on when the door opens, but obviously that isn't an option underway. Is there a way for the driver to illuminate the whole cabin from the drivers seat?
View 6 Replies
I am getting some rattling noise from the inside of the cabin between the front and rear passenger doors. I had the exact same thing happen on my first Phaeton at around 25000 Miles. What causes this??
View 2 Replies
The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
View 6 Replies
I've recently purchased a MY2004 V10 TDI (one previous owner) and I'm very happy with it. When I press the VEHICLE button below the center console screen, a message appears stating 'Tire pressure monitoring system not available'.
I really hate having buttons that don't 'do' anything, so I'd like to know if the TPMS is simply an option my car doesn't have or if it is equipped with the system but the sensors are malfunctioning. I've tried pressing the button at different times (cold start, after driving etc.) but it always says the same thing.
If my car doesn't have this system, is it possible to retrofit it and would that be expensive?
View 16 Replies
I just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
View 24 Replies
My exhaust system warning light came on this afternoon. Think the cars needs to be parked until I can get it to the dealer.
View 8 Replies
I just got this car a 04 4.2l, put about 2000km on it and MIL light now on. Just got VCDS here is the scan.
I tried clearing the system too lean codes and shut off MIL and engine ran poorly, I think that is the cyl misfire codes.
Car runs fine with MIL on, averaging 10.8 l/100km hwy driving, but need to get emission tested and here in Ontario, they read the obd.
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910
Monday,23,September,2013,19:21:03:35803
Chassis Type: 3D (3D - VW Phaeton (2002 > 2006))
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77
[Code] ....
View 15 Replies
I recently purchased a 2004 v8 phaeton. The tire pressure system light was on when I purchased the vechicle and the dealer reset it and told me it was learning. The day after I purchsed I drove it from Florida to Maine where I live and the light continued to come on upon every start. Once back in Maine I took it to my local dealer and they replaced the system. Now, a few weeks later it comes back on intermittedly. Might it have something to do with bad roads?
View 5 Replies
Earlier today my exhaust system warning light came on and stayed on. I am due for a 5 hour road trip tomorrow. I have 65K miles.
View 2 Replies
I have just had what I feel like is a big problem. It started raining tonight( I don't know if it's related) and I got back into my car, after putting the baby in the rear passenger seat, and started it up and the "System Fault Workshop" warning came on, with a warning symbol next to my tpms symbol that is shaped like a key, and the "car outline icon" in the center had the rear passenger door light blink open. I hope that made sense.
I tried to restart the car to see if it would go off, and it won't. The infotainment doesn't light up, and the blinkers don't work, and neither would the high beams. So the steering wheel lights/controls are dead. Also my keyless entry doesn't lock/unlock the car. I couldn't find anything in the manual, and the only online I could find that might be related is the following: " the actual issue is/are leaky seals on the front latch solenoids/actuators, period.
I just tried to go start the car again, and the alarm started going off. Then I started the car to try and stop the alarm, and it kept going off...Then I thought the battery might have something to do with it so I opened the trunk with the key since the button in the drivers door wouldn't open it, and the alarm when off when I manually opened the trunk.....What am I going to do now?
The rear seat footwell lights are on, and you can see a youtube video of the warning lights at: [URL] ...
Because the battery gauge in the dash showed the battery being completely dead with no charge, I tried to "jump" the car with another car using jumper cables hooked up to the battery in the trunk on the drivers side. Again the alarm went off when opening the trunk, and when starting the vehicle, and the battery gauge was still completely dead.
View 16 Replies
I guess the thread title says it all. VW service agent says that they can't find something like this on the VAG scan - is this true?
View 2 Replies
Over the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
View 11 Replies
I have ls 460 my rear seat entertainment is not working. i can't open the rear screen and when i hit Display button in left of the navigation screen there is no " rear " word that open the rear screen.
View 8 Replies
Looking at a V10 that I thought I might buy.... but it has an odd noise from the steering column. Noise is present when the engine is running - and is there whilst driving. However if, when stationary, you hold either side of the wheel and just move it fractionally, the noise goes away completely.
The noise sounds a bit like gas escaping from a pipe, or more accurately reminds me of the noise of gas being throttled like in a regrigeration circuit. Although I don't think it's anything to do with the air con. The car has the electrically adjustable column... but playing with this has now effect either.
View 19 Replies
Accessing the evaporator drain / Liquid "sloshing" sound in cabin. finally figured out how to do this, at least for the passenger side. Look at the picture of michael's trick for reinstallation of J523. Right next to the cable that gets pulled as a trick, you can see the rubber drain hose. The soft rubber hose connects to the plastic drain of the main HVAC assembly right there. Just pull it off and the backwater can flow right out into a bucket. Then you can unclog, make sure the soft rubber hose is not getting pinched, etc.
Arrow points at passenger side evaporator drain...
View 24 Replies
From time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.
90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.
If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.
After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.
This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.
Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.
I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.
View 6 Replies
Driving along last night and suddenly slightly oily smell in cabin. Then notice oil pressure drops from normal 82 ish to about 25. Recovers to about 70 by time I get to Waitrose (about ten mins). Park up and do shopping. Move car and check for oil patch - none found. Drive home and pressure still lower than usual - but recovers to just under normal. No warning lights - open oil filler cap and seems to be some in there. No oil leak found.
View 6 Replies