Phaeton :: RPMs Goes To 1200 For About 30 Seconds Then Settles To 65 On Startup
Mar 2, 2014
On start up (Engine cold) my rpm goes to 1200 for about 30 seconds then settles to 650, is this normal ?
View 10 RepliesOn start up (Engine cold) my rpm goes to 1200 for about 30 seconds then settles to 650, is this normal ?
View 10 RepliesI was driving today and had just gotten off the highway. I was going at no more than 10MPH when I heard some high pitched sound. At first I couldn't figure out what it was and thought maybe it was some outside noise. It quickly got louder over the span of the next few seconds and then I realized it was the engine. I had the pedal barely down so was definitely in electric mode.
I quickly glanced at my Scan Gauge and actually saw the RPMs go from 1200's up to 3400 in no more than 10 seconds. I have never had the car rev this high, probably just 2400s when I'm on the highway going 70's. By this time I was getting very perplexed and worried, and had my foot completely off the gas pedal. I immediately pulled to the side of the road and parked (hit the P button). The car seemed to go into park mode fine and then over the next few seconds the RPMs went back down to 992, and I made it back to the house no problem.
Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
My 95 Jeep GC is a great car, but it is now behaving too strangely to ignore. At about 1200 RPMs, when I'm just lightly hitting the gas, the car starts to have a "sputter" feel to it, like it's running out of gas. Then, after running it on the highway for a couple of hours (I live 2 hours from the nearest city in Alaska) the turning radius practically disappears and there is a horrible clunking noise and feel when I try to make a sharp turn. This goes away after driving it slowly through town for a while. The sputtering only happens at 1200. I've had it at 3 different mechanics, and no one can figure it out. I've emptied the gas tank and filled it with Premium and added 'heat' to it. I've had all the fluids changed out. I see this as two seperate issues, but can not figure out the sputtering thing at all.
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesWhat the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
I have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 Repliesjust wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
View 6 RepliesI had my license revoked for a year so my baby had sit for a year with know one to drive it.. now before i had to put her in storage she ran fine no problems what so ever.. I would time to time start her up for a while over the winter but because of family problems there was a time where she sat for couple months without starting and letting her run. Now when i had the time to do it it was like i walked up and got into a whole different car, here is what i got going on....
Go to start it up and she will idle up to 600rpms then die out i would have to give it gas to try to start her but the thing is i can only go up to 2k rpms or it will just auto drop down to about 800rpms. i would usually have to floor it all the way to even get it to stay idle by her self its not as bad anymore but still does it. Also it smells like gas like crazy when it starts up,i had a half of tank when i kept her in storage so idk if its just bad gas doing this but seems like a lot of problems just for having bad gas in it, and she puts out smoke white smoke..now i know shes running rich because me and a buddy looked into it. also there is a crazy sound since shes been sitting that has never happened before it sounds almost like the belts need to be lubed up but the belts are fine and its loud from under the front bumper my friend said he thinks i blow my turbo but I don't see how that could be just from sitting for time to time.. the car and motor has a shake to it as well.
I tried to drive her up and down my hill a couple times to see if i can just break some cob webs loose or anything but you give her gas she barely once to go and if she does she get to 2k rpms then die down and hardly moves and if i floor it to the ground it takes a bit to get up and going but then drives seeming like nothing was wrong. I have never had any of this issues before I put her for storage and now i have 4 weeks till I get to roam the streets again but sadly my b5 is dying on me.
Motor specs: Stock 1.8t 75k miles 5 speed tiptronic 1999....
My vehicle has 113 k and when I start it cold there is a whining sound for about 20 seconds and then increases in pitch and then slowly winds down to a stop. Does not do it when motor is warm. What it might be?
View 1 RepliesI have a problem that my Treg makes a terrible grinding noise when starting in the morning. It sounds almost like a bad bearing or something. It lasts anywhere from 3 to 8 seconds.
View 5 RepliesWe love our Treg, but I am not happy about the clatter (like not lube for a second or two) when starting in the morning. Temps are warm this time of year. Otherwise, everything OK.
View 1 RepliesRecently its been pretty cold here, and in the morning or when it sits for awhile i start her up and about 10secs after i start her the little "stop" light comes on and says "check coolant". so went through all that, checked the service manual and dont see any red flags. and if i were to turn it off and then turn it back on it wont show again... but still curious.
View 6 RepliesI have an 07 v6 3.6L (50Kmi) that makes screeching sound upon startup for 15-30 seconds. Not belt/pulley noise, more like valve lifters without oil noise. Trying to decide whether to go to the dealer before the power train warranty expires or to leave it alone.
View 1 RepliesI have an intermittent start-up problem with my 2001 BMW Z-3, 3.0: cylinder 1 misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a few minutes under certain conditions. The misfire conditions are consistent:A)OBDII code P0313 (misfire detected with low fuel) or code PO1343 (cylinder 1 misfire with fuel cutoff). Both OBDII codes equate to BMW fault code 238.B)after winter storage it misfires on start–up for 5-10 minutes (I’ve always added a fuel stabilizer before winter storage);C)after a spike in humidity it misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a minute after a rain storm or;D)If I don’t run the car for a 3-5 days (always stored in a garage) it misfires for a few seconds (just long enough to turn on the “check engine” light).
Otherwise, the car runs flawlessly –plenty of power – smooth as silk - no hesitation, but with the bloody check engine light on 50% of the time.In lieu of black tape over the check engine indicator, I’ve taken the car alternately to both Minneapolis BMW dealers over the years (once if not twice a year), but the intermittent nature of the misfire and the fact that I store the car 5 months the a year has made it difficult to pin down the exact “root cause” of the problem. The dealership mechanics have swapped and/or replaced the cylinder 1 fuel injector, spark plug, cylinder coil and cable, kept it overnight and for days. The last dealership diagnosis was a defective cylinder 1 exhaust valve that could only be fixed with valve job! Yes, that’s right, pull the head and do a complete valve job - on all six cylinders. What am I missing here? What about the infamous BMW VANOS valve control system?