I am experiencing significant RPM drops when the car is at idle and I start to steer. feels like the engine is almost going to stall. I looked online it says maybe the IAC valve. where is such thing on phaeton?
View 6 RepliesI have a MK4 2.0L 8v 5 speed and recently I started making trips out to the country that last a bout 25 minutes one way and I usually drive pretty spirited the whole way.
I recently noticed that after each trip my coolant reservoir drops significantly, about 1/2" or 3/4". The oil level never changes and the engine never passes 90C on the gauge.
The outside temperature is about -10C most of the time and I always have it at operating temps before I really get into it.
I can't decide if this is normal because the engine isn't overheating (as far as the gauge says) or a problem because it's using a lot of coolant. I've never been to a track with this or any other car so I'm not sure about the effects from hard driving.
The engine revs to 6.2k RPM and I never go over 5k.
I have a 2006 Kia Rio base sedan. I've owned it from 55K miles to 70.5K miles. It does not have power steering.
When moving at rather slow speeds, maybe 0-15 or so mph, it seems that bumps or potholes or other irregularities will cause the steering wheel to turn significantly. I feel the steering wheel move back and forth by itself and the wheels feel like they "flop" to either direction to the whim of the road's irregularities if that makes sense. The wheel feels almost as if someone is grabbing it and moving it back and forth. The movement is forceful enough that if I'm not holding the wheel, the car can really wander around, possibly into another lane but I have not wanted to test that.
I tried looking up this issue on existing threads but couldn't find it. Also, I didn't really know what to call it. I had an apparently useless alignment at Firestone about a week ago (car still pulls to the right) which did not seem to affect the issue. I attached a scan of the alignment sheet thing.
Incidentally, it seems like they left a thing out of spec but maybe that's a whole other question. So, what could cause this and whether it can lead to damage or safety hazards?
My 1994 Nissan Altima is a great little car with an unknown number of miles, though my best estimate is around 150k. Every time the air conditioner compressor kicks in it drags the engine down significantly when at idle, and often causes the belt to squeal. The squeal is most notable while accelerating. My question is, since the belt is relatively new do I have a tensioner problem, a compressor problem, or something else?
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2006 Scion tC with 96000 mileage. The car has been getting a lot of problems lately.
1. P0741 torque converter engine light
2. Lost in power
3. Lost in MPG
4. Shakes a lot inside
5. Low Idle
6. engine shuts off on reverse and d mode
7. Noisy strange sounds
8. Gear slip around 2-3
9. RPM goes high at low speed.
I Replaced,Spark plugs, coil plugs, engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. I need to to replace the transmission fluid. I was told by a couple of shops to get a transmission rebuild....
I also read someones comment online: "It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas."
I realized some "Fog" in both of my Headlights, even Waterdrops ran down behind the screen of one of them... O.K., it's Wintertime and I know the Physics of Humidity and different Temperatures quite well - but this seems a little bit too much for me. VW says, this is "normal" but I do not think so. How to get the humidity out? It's not so easy to get them open, because I got the same double Xenon headlights...
View 4 RepliesWhen I turn the A/C on in my 1994 celica gt 2.2 engine the idle drops and will die,
View 4 RepliesI purchased a CPO 2013 Tiguan about 5 weeks ago with just under 29k miles. I now have about 30.5k miles. I have noticed this occur a couple of times. After the car is warmed up, and I am sitting idle for a little bit, I notice the RPMS bounce down to about 600, but then quickly correct itself and get back up to 750-800. When I purchased the car, they said they did the 30k mile maintenance. I have done 1 oil change withe the Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 euro blend. I do not feel like the oil change is the issue at all as I have changed oil plenty of times with numerous cars. Maybe I just need the ECU re-flashed?
View 7 RepliesEver third day or so, if I do not lift up on the lever that allows the steering wheel to be tilted, drops down on its own. It is a danger while driving to have the steering wheel move on you unexpectedly and a pain (pun intended) when getting out of the car and slamming your knee on the dropped down lever if I forget to lift it.
View 14 RepliesI own Camry 2008, 4 cyl, 2AZFE engine, 2400cc.
I recently, started facing strange issues,
No matter whether engine is stone cold or oven hot, it does not idle where it used to be (2 weeks ago). The car idles at ~800 RPM and the rpm suddenly drops to ~700 and engine flushes in more fuel to rev it up to 1100 rpm. Will take another 10 - 12 sec to reach ~700 rpm and the same story continues.
This however, sometimes go away, in Neutral. Once I put it in Reverse the problem becomes worse with RPM dropping every other second, as if the current in the coils is failing.
All this fuss continues, even when car is at 30 mph. However beyond 30 mph I feel nothing.
Services done in last 2 weeks:
1. Throttle body clean-- complete removal of all the gunk.
2. PCV valve changed from toyota dealer.
3. Mass airflow sensor cleaned.
4. Spark Plugs changed with new Iridium plugs from toyota dealer.
5. New Ignition Coils.
Nothing solved the idle problem - missing in the car. The mechanic convinced me that Head gasket is blown. He was indeed right as the Head Gasket had crack b/w cyl 2 and cyl 3. It was changed and car was much better. But now I am again facing issues.
On my 2001 Prius, while driving down the road the red triangle comes on and the ICE drops down to idle and the car slows down to 29mph. If I floor the gas peddle the car may or may not pick up speed slowly but if I let off of the gas peddle the least little bit it will slow down to 29mph. If I stop and turn the car off and then back on the triangle is still there but the car runs fine. After turning the car on and off 2 or 3 times the triangle disappears.
View 2 RepliesMy Auto 2.4 850 SE (38600miles) does this lately:
- idles at about 1200 rpm, and takes long to settle to its 850 position, even when warm;
- when I engage Drive, idle drops to very low, car vibrates as if engine wants to switch off, then rises again as I give gas and pull away.
Why this is the case, and what I could do to remedy this? (About 2 months ago, idling was going really nuts! I removed the flame trap and fresh air hose: it was full of oily gunk and I gave all components a good clean up with carb cleaner and then replaced them, and then idling all fine after that).
So every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 passat 1.8t and its having problems accelerating. When you hit the gas pedal the idle rises and drops constantly. What this is?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Civic that has about 183,000 miles.The problem is that when I start my car in the morning, the car never totally warms up when it's cold outside (I live in VA), until I press the gas pedal and rev the engine. Until I press the gas pedal, the temperature gauge stays at cold, and the heater blows cool air. I've taken it to the dealer 12 times for the same issue, but they can never find the real problem.
They flushed the A/C hoses and radiator, replaced the radiator cap, installed an upper hose, installed head gasket, water pump, and while there, the timing belt. They've also "burped" it numerous times. Also, when I have the heater on and fan on high, the temperature gauge drops as I'm going down a mountain and not pressing the gas pedal. After driving, and I stop, it also slowly drops while idling for about 5 - 10 min.
When it's warmer outside, I don't have any problems, because I don't have the heater on. This has been going on for about 1 1/2 years now, and it's starting to get cooler again, so I need to get it fixed or sell it.
have a 98 rodeo, with a V6 & Auto trans. have an intermittent problem - as I am driving engine will occasionally drop to idle speed and then pick back up to driving speed. Engine keeps running smoothly, just at idle speed.
CEL does not come on / no codes
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor - and thought I had found the problem, but since it is so random, it just didn't happen again for 1 1/2 weeks.
I got a 2002 sierra 1500 with a 5.3l. I just replaced both catalytic converters and y pipe. After I did this, I am having a few problems. First, when slow down to park or at a stop sign the idle drops way down and it dies. I cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, and ran a can of seafoam and a can of b12 chemtool through it. It did this for a couple of days and now when the idle slows down the "check oil pressure" light comes on before it dies. Then yesterday the "check oil level" light started coming on. Is this all related, would the low idle cause low oil pressure, where to start?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
View 12 RepliesMy wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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