Phaeton :: Pulsing Ticking Sound Coming From The Steering
Mar 24, 2012
Funny pulsing ticking sound on full lock. Only noticeable when parking etc. But once it's started making it, it stops when the lock is unwound... but does it again without lock when the car reverses.
There is no feeling through the wheel or through the chasis when going forward... but subjectively it can be felt when going backwards.
Been getting a little bit more prevalent over the last thousand miles. Driving normally, steering feels perfectly normal.
I've checked the power steering fluid. If anything the reservoir is over full.. so it's definitely not short of fluid. Should the fluid be checked from unscrewing the dipstick.. or with is jut dipped in and not screwed up? Either way it's still over the max line.
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Some of you might remember I've pondered here before about the strange pulsing that occurs on my steering (on the V10) when maneuvering at low speed. It's always done it. Well, for the 18 months and 15k miles I've had the car.
Nobody (including Phaeton technicians) who have heard it/felt it have had any useful advice or insight (save offering to take the engine out to check on various bits).
I had always assumed that it was something like the load when the car is being parked etc was sufficient such that some relief valve was lifting momentarily and repeatedly. However I've come to realize that it is not just the slow vehicle speed, but engine speed too. Of course, nearly all parking maneuvering is done at tick over. But if I raise the revs just a little, the phenomenon seems to go away. Not easy to isolate maneuvering speed from engine speed... which is why I'd not really noticed before.
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I've been hearing this ticking noise coming from the back of my prius when driving. i can only hear it when my windows is down and i'm passing by an object that reflects the sound so i can hear it., like if i was driving by a car, building, median with barriers etc. It sound like pop rocks candy literally but much slower.
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There's a ticking that sounds like its coming from behind the radio or behind the glove box.
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I was out late last night driving the car on a local freeway, and my friend wanted a better look around the interior of the car. So, I turned on the two front interior dome lights, the round ones next to the sunroof controls? Anyway, we both noticed right away that they were pulsing in intensity. It was very slow, may from high to low once a second or so...just like in a sci-fi show when you have a living machine?
Anyway, is that a sign of the alternator going? I've never seen this behvior in the car before. It went away at idle. The car was travelling 100km/hr in 6th gear. Headlights were on low beam, as were dash lights. No other electrics on. Just not sure if it is normal or if I should be concerned.
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When I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
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I noticed my sound a few weeks ago but wasn't as loud as the videos I've seen. Didn't really bother me. I did notice today that the sound was a lot louder . The only thing that has changed is i had my oil changed over the weekend with mobil 1 5w-30 fully synthetic. Now I don't know if that could factor into the sound getting louder.
I am really hoping its just a cat and i can replace my headers and everything is good. i just got the car with 19k miles on it and do not have a warranty.
I have been worrying about "engine noises" for years and at this point if its something i can't fix without dumping thousands of dollars into it, then so be it. I am just going to enjoy the car too the fullest. Plus, once i get full exhaust, it will work with canceling out the ticking sound.
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as the title says, my 2010 accent is at 81,000KM and i hear a ticking sound? is it the timing belt? when driving i dont hear any ticking but once stopped or idling i hear ticking and it never stops til i accelerate.
If it is timing belt, does this mean time for replacement? or what could it be?
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Had this happen to me a few times now. Driving down the highway (120kph) in 5th, revving around 3,000 or so and whenever I hit a hill and come onto the gas pedal, I hear a ticking sound coming from up front. The harder I press on the gas - the louder it gets and vice versa.
Only happens in 5th and only under load. Scanned for codes - nothing, looked under the hood - looks normal. Timing belt was done around 56,000km, car has about 67,000km now and is in fantastic shape otherwise.
Spark plugs are still original and I have a new set waiting to go in, drive belts were replaced back in the spring but the tension is correct and all pulleys were checked okay at the time.
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Ever since the day I bought the car, it has had a highway speed pulsing vibration. This vibration manifests once you cross about 90kph, and pulses like a sine wave.
Think of it like this - OOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOO - where big O's are vibration and little o's are absence of vibration.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced several times on various machines over the years in attempts to rid myself of it. The original owner had theorized that the car was so heavy and had sat on its aftermarket rims in one spot for so long that the wheels had bent, which does not appear to be the case. The dealer has experienced the symptoms but cannot find a cause...though I fear they are less knowledgeable about the car than I am. I note that several people on the forum have had vibration issues due to drive shaft bushing failures...but in skimming the relevant threads, none of those people characterized it as a pulsation OR a constant issue that I saw.
I wouldn't say the pulsing was fast...think 4-5 seconds of vibration and then 4-5 seconds of peace.
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I might buy a 2013 Accent tomorrow, but the only big question remaining is the ticking sound coming from the engine when I pop the hood.
When I hear ticking I think of valve issues, but is a ticking sound totally normal for that engine? Is it okay or should I be worried?
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I have an 2012 Accent that is sitting at 35k miles. I just got the 30,000 service done and a few days after I started to hear this ticking sound along with a squeak. The car can be idle or moving, squeak still there. It's sporadic though. Sometimes I can go 20-30 miles without hearing it and then all of a sudden I start hearing the ticking squeak. It sounds like its coming below the front passenger side of the car. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going, it's a ticking squeak that just comes and goes, but when it comes, it usually sticks around until I turn the car off and let it cool down. If i start the car right after, the squeaking comes back, but if I let the car cool down (overnight, for example), the squeak goes away until I drive 20-30 miles. I commute to work about 40 miles each way (80 miles total) every day so I can definitely hear it and it's bothersome.
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Recently my GTI has been ticking, but it is only between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. After 2k it runs fine and doesn't make the sound. Local tuner suggested an oil pressure problem (not using the proper oil) but I am using the proper oil. It has been like this for over a month now and nothing has come of it. It is coming from the belt side of the motor and sounds like plastic ticking. Could it be a belt?
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I'll be sitting at a stop light and I'll start hearing this ticking sound which seems to come from the rear of the driver door, or perhaps the B pillar. Opening and shutting the door will make it go away for a short time, but it returns by the time I get to the next light.
It's very steady, about one tick per second. At highway speeds it's either non-existent or too faint to hear. I have a 2-door.
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Started my truck (2007 EB 4x4, 5.4) this morning with my daughter in her car seat behind me, we get about 1/4 mile down the street and all of a sudden I notice myself moving!
My daughter starts freaking out, I pull over and my seat is still moving. I end up COMPLETELY reclined, all the way down and all the way back. The seat pinned my daughter in her seat, she's flipping out...I had to unbuckle her car seat while she's screaming because her legs are pinned and have to slide her car seat out sideways with her in it.
Seat does NOT move at all.
Now, before all of this I had heard a "ticking" sound coming from inside my seat, been doing it for months but since everything worked and not dummy lights came on I just ignored it. Apparently, this was not a good idea because now it is not ticking and the seat is not working....
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Yesterday morning taking off out of my driveway I heard a ticking sound. Kinda metal on metal sounding. It sounds like middle of truck underside. Only on acceleration. It does also clunk at times or ping when I put it in gear.is this u joints? Hopefully not rear end. Its a 2000 limited ex. with the v10.
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For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
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2011 Elantra GL.
Recently, we noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood (the rate of "ticking" was proportional to the engine speed). We took the vehicle in to the local Hyundai dealership and didn't hear anything from them until 6 hours later. The news was interesting; they were going to perform a full engine replacement after consulting with Hyundai Canada. In my experience, a resolution of this large of a magnitude usually takes weeks of kicking and screaming for any large corporation to comply, however it seems like a pretty hasty conclusion, indicating to me that Hyundai might be already aware of such an issue...
So here is my question. We requested photos from the dealership, and they were able to send two pictures of one of the camshafts (not sure if it's the intake or exhaust cams), but the only thing that I could notice was some slight abrasion/wear; certainly not enough for me to ever come to the conclusion that a full engine swap was necessary. I've attached the pictures.
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I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
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My car seems to make a tick tick tick sound coming from the left front wheel well, but it only occurs when I make right turns. Not left or when driving straight. Could this be a bad cv joint or wheel bearing? Again, only happens when making right turns and I believe at any speed and the sound interval I believe is shorter (faster tick tick) at higher speeds. Also, the vehicle is a 2001 manual transmission and pressing the clutch I believe (cant confirm) stops or slows the sound.
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I'm not sure if I've just gotten used to the sound of the car or what but lately, it seems like the engine is ticking pretty loudly. It runs perfectly and I didn't think much of it until my friend commented on it. Sounds like it is coming from the drivers side (mainly).
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