Phaeton :: Power Trunk Refused To Work
Aug 12, 2014
Basically, my power trunk (boot lid) refused to work this morning and continues to do so.
The key fob unlocks/locks the doors just fine, but the trunk button doesn't make anything happen at all. No noise or movement......nothing.
The dashboard display is showing the trunk is open, and the locking mech on the lid is fixed in the lock position i.e., it isn't retracted.
What this could be? Wiring springs to mind as the fabric covering on the loom that passes from bodyshell to lid is already frayed so it's definitely seen some use.
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I am facing a discouraging situation here w/ my Phaeton: the trunk does not work, the mechanic called it quits and VW Dealership wants $32k and 3-6months in order to replace the car's electrical harness.
So here are some details regarding the problem:
1. It started by not opening the trunk when using the door switch. only the remote key.
2. Then, it wouldn't lock the trunk (it would open all the way and close)
3. After a few more days, it wouldn't open/close the trunk or lock it. (it would work once in a while, and sometimes the trunk would open/close just half way)
4. As or right now, the trunk opens and closes most of the time, but it doesn't lock.
I replaced the trunk hatch(lock), the hydraulic pump that opens and closes it, new battery and fuses. The mechanic worked on it on several occasions doing all the replacements and calibration, computer reset and all that.
I'm guessing it might be an electrical problem, a loose contact or interrupted wire given the nature of the problem (intermittent operation). But I don't know where to start looking...
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My car was in the shop for 3 1/2 months. When it went in the power trunk worked perfectly. While it was there the comfort battery died and was replaced by the dealer. Since I got it back I've discovered that the trunk no longer functions properly. The trunk control module doesn't seem to remember the coding. Now, based on advice from VW of America, the dealer wants to replace the trunk control module and charge me approximately $750 to do so. I'm left with the question of whether the failure is coincidental and my responsibility or was inadvertently caused by the dealer through some type of voltage surge or something like that?
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I purchased a 2006 V-8 several months ago, and am enjoying it greatly. One thing I noticed after I bought the car is that the cabin trunk switch does not work to open the trunk. I was not too concerned since the key switch worked, so I figured I'd get the dealer to fix it when I next took it in for servicing. Well, now the trunk button won't work on any of my keys either. I think I may have held the button down too long and then it froze after trying again several times. So the bottom line is that I cannot open the trunk. Just to be clear the trunk is closed, so any remedy that requires that the trunk be open is impractical.
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I do have the power trunk. I went to open the trunk but instead of opening it just sort of popped up as if it weren't a power trunk. Pressing the close button does nothing and the latch is in a position so that I cannot fully close the trunk. I restarted the car a few times, tried different keys, and tried the trunk reset trick I read about in the Table of Contents.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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I opened the boot via the door panel button. Loaded suitcases in and pressed button down on the boot lid.
The two hooks ( plastic and metal one ) directly came out and the boot lid did not move at all.
Tried a reset the whole procedure found on this excellent forum. but no result. I also tried to put my key in the boot lock and it doesnt want to lock or unlock.
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I have a 2000 v6 glx passat. CCM recently got fried, brought to dealer and got replaced, they fixed all the leaks. I go to open with trunk with the remote and it doesn't work, so i go to the cabin and use the switch located at the bottom of the drivers door and that doesn't work either. I hear a clicking in the fuse box so i looked around and fuse 38 clicks when ever i hit the trunk release button, fuse is fine, replaced with another one too, trunk opens with key manually. when fuse 38 is removed, trunk still doesn't open remotely or with button but the clicking stops.
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Several tries at power button failed. Icon on dashboard (small car image) flashing whether nor not I was in the car. Lights worked and emergency flashers worked. After many tries, called AAA. The AAA driver got in the car and it started right up and has worked ever since. Called dealer. Never heard of such a thing. What happened.
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So I have been fighting an electrical issue off and on since I bought the Excursion and I am at my wits end!
Put in 2 injectors. 1 in November and 1 last week. Thinking that it would fix my P0603 and the missing issue I was having. Plus the truck tossed a code for #4 and #5 injector. According to a snap on scanner and my AE the injectors were bad. The missing issues are gone, but I keep getting a p0603.
Go back to the middle of May. Truck died and refused to start. I put a fuel pump in it due to lack of fuel at one point thru the no starts. Shop had it 2 weeks and replaced the Cam sensor. Truck has been spot on for the last month zero issues.
Fast forward to today! Hooked up the trailer and loaded my tow tune. Check codes before hand and have a P132b code. Look it up and is a multitude of things to check. Clear code, tune the truck and head out for the weekend. Sat in traffic for 95 minutes to go 13 miles to the highway I needed to get to.
Driving the truck I had zero issues, until I got off the exit ramp to the campground. During the 2 hour drive I monitored a few pids on the scan gauge to see how things were on the truck after the work. The following are driving down the road at 2k RPMS 70 MPH give or take 5 MPH.
boost 7.3
map 22.9
EOT 225
FWT 211
TFT 163
CPM .28
ICV 1.9
VGT 57
IPR 37.3
CVI 4-5 (fluctuates)
SYNCH went to 0 when it died.
Truck shuts off and restarts right away and keeps running. I get to the campground and hook up the tuner to the truck and I have 2 different codes. My buddy the KAM P0603 and a new one Crankshaft sensor Pos A/ I can not remember what the code # was.
So after dropping 1500.00 on the truck the last 2 months, I am at a loss. The shop I took it to was a new place for me and I was not impressed. The lack of communication, 3 scratches on the truck and saying the truck had a miss and they didn't look at the injectors at all.
The 2 options I have are 45 miles away or 100 miles away. After today I believe it is an electrical issue and would rather spend a weekend of my time trying to find it. Where are the known chaffing points on the 03' 6.0L.
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I have one problem, my trunk does not close, I close but it is not closed, the system does not close and the door is open.
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Today I tried to open the trunk from the Remote and the Door switch, and it will not pop up, after pressing the button (remote or door) you will hear the click from the switch in the trunk itself, but nothing else, before (when the trunk was working) after the click it will pop up 5 mm that way I can slide my fingers under and lift it.
Dealer said the latch is not pushing the trunk up and they are going to replace it ? After checking the parts manual I can see there are two types of latch, with Hydraulic with Closing assist (P/N: 3D5 827 302 J) and No Closing Assist, that means that's the part they are going to change, the one with Closing Assist ?
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Just got back from the store and the trunk will not close. Goes about 2/3 the way and stops. On inspection it seems the cable enclosure from the body to the trunk lid is not retracting(?) properly and causing the pinch protection to kick in as the cable appears to be very rigid.
Two questions: Could this be due to cold weather (less than 20F)?
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My key is stuck in the trunk lock and ...
Can't open the trunk from inside the car because the car thinks the trunk is already open.
Can't open manually - I think the latch is broken.
Can't override the power trunk mechanism with Vag Com.
Short of removing the rear seat to attack this from the inside, is there any way to resolve this?
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Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
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Just picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
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I've having difficulty removing the taillights from the trunk. I'm sure it is simple but there must be a trick to do this properly. I've removed the nuts but I can't bulge the "lockwashers" per the instructions. The threaded stud is a special design and has some type of spring mechanism. I tried removing one of these a few years ago and I broke the stud. How is this done? Below are the Bentley instructions which are not useful.
Volkswagen > Phaeton > 2004-2006
Electrical Equipment
94 - Taillamps Tail light assembly in luggage compartment lid, removing and installing
Removing:
-Switch off ignition, switch off all electrical components and remove ignition key.
-Remove trim for rear lid Body Interior - Repair Group 70 .
-Release the latching mechanism - arrow - and separate the connector.
-Remove bolts - arrows - .
-Remove the lock washers and the tail light housing.
Installing: Install in reverse order of removal, noting the following:
-If a new taillight is being installed, remove the protective foil from the gasket.
-Connect the connector.
-Insert the taillight into the body opening.
Note: When installing the taillight housing, pay attention to the gap dimensions.
-Gap dimensions of tail lamp assemblies .
-Move the taillight by hand into the correct position in the body, hold the position and then tighten the nuts.
-Tighten the nuts using 4 Nm torque.
-Coding or adaptation of the taillight is not required after installation.
-Check the rear light function, Rear light function, checking .
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I have a 06 Klavier lack v8 with the same problem and VW corporate is supposed to come and "evaluate" this this month. today i noticed more of the same on the underside lip of the trunk, not far from where the button to close it is. why would you get that in that spot? it is never exposed to the environment. I'm really concerned because i don't know who can repaint the door and trunk so it will match the piano finish.
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A few times I have gone into the garage and found the trunk lid of the car open. It could be that I am inadvertently pressing the key while in my pocket. I am not sure that this is the case since it takes quite a hard long press to open the trunk. Is it possible to have a signal interference or a signal being generated by something else that cause the trunk lid to open?
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My Phaeton has been in the shop for about a week because the trunk will not open with the switch on the door. The key will open it, but no the door switch. They said it was hard to fix because there is no wire running from the switch to the trunk. Is it just another one of the many "secrets" of the Phaeton.
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I've searched through prior threads but all the trunk issues seem to revolve around either the motorized trunks or wiring loom, my issue is a bit different.
On my recently acquired 2005 Phaeton the trunk unlocks and locks fine, but it does not "pop" up at all. I end up having to pry my fingers under the lid to lift it up(harder to do than you'd think). The trunk shocks hold it up fine and everything else seems normal. Would this be an issue with the latch itself?
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