Phaeton :: Power Loss - ABS Light Came On / Tachometer Fluctuating And Speedometer Went To Zero
Dec 26, 2012
I was driving home tonight and stopped to get dog food. Resuming my drive home I had gone about 3 miles and my ABS light came on, the tachometer began fluctuation and the speed odometer went to zero. And the engine was losing power. Pulled over turned the lights off and turned the car off. Waited about 30 seconds and turned the car back on and everything was fine and car ran absolutely normal with no warning lights. I was about 26 degrees out.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport. In the past month, I have experienced on a number of occasions a sudden fluctuation in the speedometer. At the same time, the ABS light will come on and the engine becomes loaded. This will last for a second and then return to normal. The interval between occurrences is not fixed or repeatable but often occurs when traveling at a higher speed (65-70 mph) on the interstate. The first garage said it might be the idle valve so we had it replaced but the problem appeared again a few days later. We just recently took it to a Ford dealership that said it might be the rear wheel ABS sensor so we had this replaced. Once again the problem reappeared a few days later.
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I have a 2005 Camry with 110,000 miles on it. Bought Toyota because I thought they were supposed to last and be such good cars...speedometer, tachometer intermittently going out along with ABS light coming on...took it to dealer, they said it was the combo meter and oh by the way the water pump needs to be replaced. Then get a call that it isn't the combo meter but the ECU that needs to be replaced and that the part is $1982.00. I have serviced the car religiously at the dealer and am very disappointed to have such problems in a car that is only 5 years old and has been taken care of...
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So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
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I have a 2002 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Last week, I replaced both my batteries. When I tried to start the truck, the electronics when a bit crazy. Speedometer and Tachometer swinging back and forth. Then when it did start it ran rough and after a minute it shut off. All electrical functions are completely dead. I finally unhooked the batteries and went in the house to cool off. When I came back, rehooked up the batteries, it started right up and everything acted normal. Everything was normal until last night, it started fine and was idling for about 5 minutes and it shut off. Absolutely, NO electrical power, even tried to jump start and still no electrical activity. Unhooked the batteries waited about 15 minutes, hooked them back up. It started just fine.
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Speedometer Going Crazy. 2002 Excursion, 5.4, Auto Transmission, 246800 miles. Put key in ignition and immediately noticed no odometer display. Put it in drive, Odometer began to register but SPEEDOMETER fluctuated wildly. Reading the posts as best as I could, I replaced the VSS sensor on Rear Diff, and no change in symptoms. I don't want to replace sensors just to replace them.
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I have a 2002 Grand Caravan, when foot is on brake, speedometer jumps all over, engine bucks so bad I have to put it in neutral or park at every red light. When I go forward, it jumps a little, and sometimes will not shift, engine revs up so bad, I have to pull over, shut engine off, turn it on and then it shifts. Speed sensors were supposedly replaced with the plug for them. It is at a dealership, they checked all the sensors, electrical wires, etc, and not it doesn't shift at all!! It is still there, now I have no van to drive. They claim they did nothing to it, it was shifting 90% of the time. It will not shift at all, even when I shut it off and re-start it. Now they claim it may need a new used tranny.
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We have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.
Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.
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My 1999 Plymouth grand voyager SE 3.3 liter engine has developed a tach and speed. Odometer problem. At various times the tach will surge@ 200 rpm and at the same time the speedometer will top out and then they will return to where they should be. I can make this happen also bye driving in reverse, stopping and putting it in overdrive and the tach and speedometer will surge without the car ever moving...
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I own Sta Fe 2014 DM CRDi 2.2L diesel engine automatic transmission. Recently I am encountering a problem on my unit, firstly the ABS, ESC, and Hill descent alarm indicator shows on my dash brought it to Hyundai and they replace wheel hub assembly on the rear right wheel. after a week it goes lit again but doesn't stays long it disappear right now it happens from time to time only. Secondly my cruise control wont engage the light stays on but could not keep the speed, Ive check the brake lights they are not busted. The service technician doesn't now what to do and no error code showing on the computer. Last is during start up transmission on neutral or park position the speedometer fluctuates then warning light on ABS, ESC appears.
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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My speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
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In the last six months I've occasionally seen both the tach and the speedometer slowly peg when I start in the morning. My mechanic says to not worry about it but I do. The car is a 2005 Toyota ECHO with manual transmission.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
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2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.
Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.
Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.
No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.
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Today the solid engine symbol showed up inside my tachometer (no workshop message in the instrument panel display). The owners manual says this is an exhaust system problem. What do you make of the following scan:
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5
Data version: 20121222
Saturday,19,January,2013,12:32:00:22007
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
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Does this look like a bulb may be burnt out?
It is dark between 5 o'clock on the speedo and 8 o'clock on the tach.
Where are the dash lights and what type are they?
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I've been driving my V10 for 3 years now without a problem. The other day, while I was on the Highway in Italy driving at around 140KM/H, I suddenly had a loss of power. I could continue to drive the car, but I had no more tork... I stopped at the next gas station, turn the engine off, turned it on again, and the car drove normally again as before. About 200KM later the same happened again...
I went to check with the dealer - he hooked up the car to the computer - and told me that they had to change both turbos... What I find weird is that when I turn the car off and on again it works again. If the turbos would be defective, they wouldn't work again just by turning the car on and off. I think that it is more a problem with the turbo controller and if that's the case why change both turbo.
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The primary electric fuel pump in the fuel tank of my 2004 W12 failed last month, shortly after I had set out on a cross-Canada trip from Vancouver Island to Toronto. The whole process of diagnosing and identifying the cause of the problem, mitigating it so that I could continue the trip, and finally replacing the fuel pump was kind of complex, so, here's the write-up.
The problem presented itself as a surging of the engine - a momentary loss of power - at normal highway operating speeds. The onset was progressive, but it didn't take very long - only about 60 miles of driving - from the first little cough of the engine until total failure of the pump. The first indication was failure of the car to maintain speed (while on cruise control) when climbing hills. That progressed to failure to maintain speed on flat surfaces, and finally led to the car coasting to a stop, engine stalled, at the side of the road.
I soon learned that if I floored the accelerator pedal and held it against the floor, the car would cough and burp for a few seconds, then take off like a rocket. So, for the next 40 miles, I coaxed the car into the next city by flooring it, accelerating to about 80 MPH, then coasting until the speed dropped to 20 MPH, and flooring it once again and accelerating to 80 MPH. Fortunately, I was on a remote road with few other cars, and no police.
I checked the fuses for the two fuel pumps - fuses 34 and 35 in panel C (above the left battery), and they were both OK.
The next day, I visited a VW dealer in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, and together with the parts manager and one of the technicians, we looked at the Self-Study Guides (SSGs) for the Phaeton, and looked at wiring diagrams. Eventually, we came to a tentative conclusion that the primary electric fuel pump in the fuel tank had failed. The SSGs stated that the primary electric fuel pump (the pump on the right side of the car) operates all the time, and the secondary electric fuel pump (the pump on the left side of the car) only operates during starting and during 'periods of high demand'. That made sense to us - the car started fine, and worked OK when the accelerator pedal was held to the floor (high demand). It just didn't work worth a darn at any other time... the engine would stall, or, the car would not accelerate at all.
Here are two illustrations taken from the SSGs that describe how the fuel delivery system works. The first image is taken from the 'Phaeton Overview' SSG, which applies to all vehicles. The second image is taken from the W12 engine SSG. I kind of suspect that all the Phaetons operate in the same way, regardless of engine, because the fuel tank in all the Phaetons has the same shape - two lower lobes, which means two pumps are required.
Descriptions from the SSGs
I think that there may be an error in the description above. My experience suggests that the right hand pump (identified as G6, above) is the primary pump, and the left hand pump (identified as G23) is the one that switches on during starting and periods of high demand. Note also how the identification of G6 and G23 in the illustration above is reversed from what is shown in the illustration below. I believe that the text and illustration below is correct, and the text and illustration above is incorrect.
The 'effects of failure' in the description above would, I believe, make sense if it was the left-hand pump that failed. In my case, the right hand pump failed, and the effects of failure that I experienced were as I set them out in the beginning paragraphs of this post - quite different from the 'effects of failure' of the left hand pump that are described in the SSG above.
After coming to the tentative diagnosis that the primary electric fuel pump (the right hand pump) had failed, we checked the parts stock status in North America. There was one pump in stock, but it was in the United States, and being that it was a Thursday, the pump could not be delivered before the following Tuesday. I didn't want to spend that much time waiting for it, so, we started thinking about other possible solutions.
If we could somehow get the secondary electric fuel pump - the pump on the left side of the car that only operated during starting and heavy demand - to operate, that just might put me back on the road again. So, I removed the plastic cover from the small relay that operates the secondary pump, and wrapped a rubber band around the relay, thus keeping the relay in the closed position. A short test drive proved that this solution worked just fine, the car once again operated normally. The only "problem" was that the last 25% of the fuel in the tank would be unusable, because that fuel would be left behind in the right-hand lobe of the tank - the lobe with the defective primary fuel pump.
Electric Fuel Pump Relays
Here is an illustration from the Phaeton wiring diagrams identifying the various relays above the left battery.
Here you can see the two relays for the electric fuel pumps. They are identical part numbers.
Here you can see the relay for the secondary electric fuel pump, with a rubber band wrapped around it to keep it continually closed.
Aside from the loss of use of the last 25% of the fuel in the fuel tank, the car worked just fine with the secondary electric fuel pump running all the time. There were no problems noted even under heavy acceleration. It was, however, necessary to physically remove the rubber-banded relay from its position in the relay panel whenever the car was shut down for more than half a hour. The power to this relay comes from Terminal 30 (battery direct) - it is not switched on and off with the ignition as Terminal 15 power is. This meant that if the rubber-banded relay was left in position overnight, the left hand battery would totally discharge, because the fuel pump would operate continuously all night. I discovered this the morning after the first night...
So, for the next 8 days, I drove across Canada, removing the relay each night and replacing it each morning. I didn't bother to remove it when I stopped for meals or fuel. The rest of the 3,000 mile trip was uneventful - except once, when I let the fuel tank run down a bit too close to the 1/4 full mark, and the car began surging again because the left hand lobe of the fuel tank (with the functional secondary pump) had emptied out. That was a close call, but I managed to get to a gas station and refuel.
After arriving in Toronto, I called the parts staff at my home VW dealer and ordered a new primary electric fuel pump. I discovered that the left and right hand pumps are slightly different (the various hoses coming out of the pumps are different), and I also discovered that a pump costs about $400. The parts staff suggested I order two seals (one for each side of the tank), because I would have to remove both the right and left fuel tank covers to change the right pump. The seals were not expensive.
Here are two pictures that illustrate where the pumps sit in each lobe of the fuel tank. Note the fuel filler port on the left side of the pictures (as we know, it is on the right side of the car) for orientation.
Phaeton Fuel Tank, showing pumps
Fuel Pump Access Panels
Below is a picture that shows where the access panels to the two fuel pumps are. It's easy to get to these access panels, just remove the carpeted panel from the floor of the trunk.
Here's a close-up of the right side (primary) electric fuel pump access panel.
The instructions (from the VW Repair Manual, or the ELSA / ErWin system) for replacing the fuel pump are quite well written. The repair manual suggests that the fuel tank be drained before replacing a pump. I didn't want to drain the tank, so, I ran the fuel level down as low as I dared (remembering that 1/4 full is effectively 'empty' with a failed primary pump). That proved to be adequate.
There are a heck of a lot of steps involved in disconnecting all the hoses and loosening the various components before the pump can be removed. I strongly suggest that anyone attempting this task have a printed set of instructions before starting disassembly.
The fuel pump has quite a few hoses and connections on it, but fortunately, each connector is unique in design, thus it is not possible to hook things up the wrong way when installing the new pump. It is possible to 'lose' a hose inside the tank... for this reason, I attached a small piece of string to each hose I disconnected from the pump.
The process goes more or less like this:
1) Remove the two 404 relays, to ensure no power is sent to either fuel pump.
2) Lift the rubber cover, and remove the electrical connections from both pumps (left and right).
3) Using a special tool, lift up the three fasteners that hold the cap over top of the access panel (these are NOT threaded fasteners!)
Here is a side view of the three fasteners that hold the plastic cap in place - they are friction fit, not threaded.
4) Now you have a clear view of the access panel. It will probably be dusty and rusty, and should be vacuumed clean before proceeding, to prevent crap from falling into the fuel tank when the cap is removed. The rust is due to condensation forming on the cold metal part whenever the car is filled with cold fuel from an underground storage tank.
5) A special VW tool is used to remove the locking ring from the access panel.
6) After removing the locking ring, I buffed it up with a wire brush to remove surface corrosion.
7) The plastic access cap can now be lifted. There are two electrical connectors on each fuel pump, but three possible fittings on the plastic cap. Fortunately, the three fittings are keyed differently.
8) This is what you see inside the tank after removing the plastic cap.
9) After following all the detailed instructions for disconnecting and stowing hoses, disconnecting the fuel measurement probe from the pump housing, etc., it is possible to lift the pump out. It will be full of fuel.
10) The old and new pumps, side by side. I was very surprised at the amount of crap that was trapped in the filter screen at the bottom of the pump. The car only has 60,000 miles on it, and I have always used premium fuel in it.
11) I was also a bit surprised at the discolouration of the pump components. Below you can see the old and new pumps side by side.
12) It is necessary to get access to the opposite side (in this case, the left side) fuel pump, because hoses from each pump travel horizontally across the tank and connect to the other pump.
13) Here you can see a new hose from the right side pump connecting into a T fitting above the left side pump. It is easy to thread this hose across the top of the inside of the tank.
14) As mentioned earlier, there are three possible fittings on the base of each plastic cap, but only two connectors within the fuel tank. Everything is keyed, thus improper assembly is not possible.
Once the new pump has been installed, the hoses connected, and the fuel measuring probe reset into the side of the new pump, re-assembly of everything is quite straightforward. I replaced the rubber ring around the access panel opening on each side of the tank, and I also buffed up the locking rings using a wire brush (to remove corrosion) on each side.
It was not a pleasant job - your hands get covered in fuel, and there are some hazards associated with working on an open fuel tank with vapour escaping, but it is not a particularly difficult job. It is time-consuming, though.
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A few weeks ago i lost the speedometer and the abs light came on. 6 hours later when i got home I tried diagnosing it, but everything worked. Yesterday, the same thing. No speedo or odometer, abs light is on, and the OD off light is flashing. But the trans still works fine, going through all 5 gears and torque converter lockup. plus, pushing tho OD button turn OD off, hit it again and OD engages again. (the truck has a 5 speed allison trans in it) i put the scanner on it and got No response from module for the ABS module, the GEM/central timer, and Hybrid electronic cluster. There are no trouble codes, but it did show P0500 vehicle speed sensor A this afternoon on the way home, the speedometer and odometer came on and worked for .4 miles, then went out again. Where I should start?
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0l. I have no speedo and the ABS light is on. It was intermittent at first. It would go on and off if I hit a bump or braked quickly, but now for the last month the light has been on constantly.
I have tried the following to no avail:
1. check the harness to the VSS (rear ABS senor on the pumpkin)
2. replaced the VSS on the rear
3. check the lines from the vss for resistance and open short (and short to ground)
4. checked the HS-can network (pins 14 and 6 in the DLC to the respective HS-can + and - on the module) both have less than 5 ohms (about 3 ohms found) and no short.
5. checked the resistance of the network itself across pin 4-16 and found 60 ohms.
6. ran scans with OBD fusion for ABS (no abs found)
7. ran scans with forscan with laptop, does not detect ABS unit neither new or old module. note the TBC and IC both throw codes about not detecting the ABS.
8. check HS-can on the PCM as well as VSS wire from abs to pcm, no shorts or resistance.
9. check the number 11 fuse, (good) checked ALL fuses, only bad fuse found was trailer light number 20 engine bay. issue was a wire at the tailer connector was t-taped and not sealed leading to a short to frame.
10. checked the connector to the ABS module for power on both constant power pins, for open ground on both grounds, and power on run, all with in spec.
I've been diagnosing this for the last week, I am running out of things I can think of to check.
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