Phaeton :: Oil Cooler Coolant Leak - Swap Engine?
Oct 13, 2015
I take my 4.2 to a great mechanic in the Minneapolis area. I took it in for some pretty hefty service. Control arm bushings, ATF change, and timing belt. My car has 205k miles on it and I feel like shes got another 100k in her. Lots of highway miles. I mentioned that I noticed a small coolant leak in the right front. He gave a compassionate grin and he seemed to know exactly what it was. He told me about a plastic pipe near the oil cooler that leaks. He's seen it on a handful of A8s. Told me to read up on it...I wish I hadn't. It seems like one hell of a job. Engine needs to come out.
My question is, if the engine is coming out and I've got 205k on it, do I take the opportunity to buy a used low mileage engine and enjoy another 200k+ miles? For those with experience regarding this leak, is this something I can live with, or does it continue to get worse? The system holds pressure as it is. It's a very small leak.
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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The oil cooler mounted above the oil filter on my 2002 Explorer 4.0L V6 has a major coolant leak on one of the external line/hose bib elbow. I've googled Explorer oil coolers and I've searched this forum with no luck. Can you bypass it without any problems mechanically or electronically (throwing error codes)? I have already purchased a new cooler and the lower oil cooler line. I'm just wondering if I should return the parts and bypass it. If I go through the replacement, I noticed the cooler is mounted by a pass through threaded tube with a hex head molded into it for fastening/loosening purposes. What size hex head socket it is?
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SFS less than 2K miles, noticed coolant on garage floor, chked coolant bottle nearly MT. Dropped engine air flow control panel. Found fresh coolant and stains running dwn both metal tubes leading to trans cooler. This is the 3rd Hyundai vehicle in 15 yrs, first negative experience, off to the dealer.
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Noticed about a gallon of coolant on my floor the last 4 days. Got it pressure tested and was told bad water pump. Had it changed with timing belt and tensioners. Got home, next day, same thing. Coolant everywhere. Also, do I really need to put G12++ in as coolant? I've been using it but the shop put some green stuff in it.
I have a 2005, V8, Phaeton with 181,000 miles. Also, my car overheated, got the coolant too hot warning, 270 on gauge, let it sit 5 minutes, no problem afterwards. Should the thermostat have been changed also?
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I was checking the engine today and I think I found a coolant leak close to the Oil Filter reservoir, the fluid is PINK color and that matches the coolant type of fluid, check the pictures. Looking for the location from where the leak might be coming ? Do the Thermostat or Water Pump are closer to that location ?, I have the theory that they might be the cause of the coolant leak, they were changed about 4,000 miles ago,
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I have serious drain now on the left side of the vehicle, and it appears to come from the radiator itself. Coolant consumption is approaching fuel consumption. Replace the radiator in a 2006- W12? Looking for some info on similar leaks and found them not originating from the radiator?
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I have a coolant leak coming from the area under the oil filter housing where the cooler is. My thought is the little plastic pipe between the cooler and the engine block. I have the alternator removed but am wondering what's next. Can I get to the cooler without dropping the engine?
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my audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
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I recently purchased an 06 V8 Phaeton that has just about all the options except the 4 seat package. Other than the notoriously finicky TPMS, the rear seat heater and cooler does not work at all. The rear seat lumbar adjustment and massage features work properly. From what I can determine from service manuals the rear seat heaters and coolers are controlled by J522 Rear Seat.
VCDS Scan:
Address 66: Seat, Rear Labels: None
Part No: 3D0 959 860 C
Component: Sitzmemory D1 H 1724
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2F6D7837BD8E8246D7-5140
No fault code found.
Now I first suspected that the wheels in the center console may not be functional, because the seat has power. When I took a look at the measurement blocks they responded from 0.36V - 5V on both on the controller.
My next thought is that the controller isn't coded/configured for the rear seat heaters/coolers? Looking for the details of this controller? What should I check next?
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My wife has a 2006 Touareg V6.
Noticed a coolant leak a week ago, refilled with coolant, and as of today the coolant warning has not come back, so whatever it is must be a very slow leak. Today I took the opportunity with the unseasonable warmth in Chicagoland to investigate.
Got the T-reg up on jacks and belly pan removed, ran the engine while inspecting the bay, didn't see anything.
After I shut the engine off, however, I noticed a small but somewhat steady dripping coming from roughly the middle of the front of the engine block.
Pulled the plastic cover off one of the pulleys, part # reads: 022 121 341. I couldn't find a match anywhere online, but I got tons of results for 022 121 011, which is the water pump.
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I have been trying to fix a coolant leak at the rear of engine (1998 1.8T AEB); the flange (2x 10mm hex bolts) of the black metal pipe that runs from the back of then engine on top to the front.
Tried adding silicone RTV, leak. Cleaned and tried black RTV, leak; and now O ring is cut.
The pipe has about 32.5mm (= ca. size of O ring ID)
The hole/flange has about 37.5mm (= ca. size of O ring OD)
I need to find a new O ring. Looking for
- the correct dimensions?
- Official name?
- Part number?
- Source?
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I did a search but found nothing on a coolant leak. My 07 (57K) has developed a leak on the passengers side of the engine. Not sure if its the water pump (not making noise) or the themostat housing as a mechanic who took a very quick look at it suggested. How hard it is to get to the thermostat housing? Anything else have to come off? I don't have a FSM.
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I have a 1990 mazda 2600i 4x4 truck that is leaking coolant on the right side of the engine about mid ways back. What that could be coming from? My light was very dim and I couldn't tell much by looking.
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I have a 2002 Mazda 626 with 134,00 miles. About a month ago there was a large coolant leak in the middle part of the engine. My mechanic replaced the coolant by-pass hose from the thermostat housing under exhaust manifold to engine block. A few days ago there was another leak around where the coolant reservoir is. Gauge read hot and had to top off coolant on way to repair shop. Topped off reservoir and next morning most of the coolant had drained out. My mechanic has done a pressure check, drove the car, let it sit and idle for up to an hour and there was no leak or overheating.
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I drive a 2001 Ford Focus ZTS with ~133000. I just recently filled up my coolant reservoir with 50/50 coolant. 2 days later I needed to fill it again. I went through an entire jug of coolant in 4 days. It seems to be leaking from the top of the engine and the engine runs slightly rough and has a hard time starting some days (more often recently). How bad is it doc?
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My truck is leaking behind the engine. There is not any coolant on top of the engine. It's leaking above the transmission and running down the passage sides. Are there any hoses that could be leaking behind. Sometimes it leaks a lot other times it doesn't leak at all. The shop thinks it's a freeze plug but wouldn't it be leaking more if it was?
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I replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?
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I had a minor front accident in my EX last week. Seemed fine to drive, AC worked radiator was oK. Shifted fine. Bumper was all jacked up. I took off the bumper and ordered a new one. In the meantime an employee of mine drove the EX on a short errand. Evidently there was a nick in the front tranny cooler hose that burst on the interstate. He put a few quarts in it and limped back to the farm where we fixed the leaking hose and refilled the tranny. As it is now, reverse works fine, but when shifted to drive it doesnt shift into 1st and could possibly be stuck in overdrive. If I turn off the overdrive button on the shifter, all gears work as they should except of course OD. if I'm at highway speed in 3rd gear, I can turn overdrive back on and it will shift into overdrive. If I stop, I have the turn off the overdrive button to use 1st 2nd and 3rd.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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I'm getting pretty comfortable with these forums now. Not sure if this is in the right section, but even if it was, I'm not sure how to find the right one. I recently purchased Bullet Proof Diesel's Air-to-Oil oil cooler along with the BPD oil filtration. I've already drained the oil, but do I need to drain the coolant as well? I have read of people doing a complete flush before even installing a new oil cooler (OEM oil cooler). That way once it is installed, it doesn't have all the grit and sand pumping through it right off the bat. But does it matter with BPD's system? Should I go ahead and drain the coolant completely before beginning this job?
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