Phaeton :: Oil And Coolant Temperature Too High
Feb 1, 2010
Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
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I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
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When I drive 30 min the oil temp raises up to 110c and the coolant raises up to the redzone. And when I stop for a red light my front window get fogged all the way I can see barely anything.
Coolant is filled everything is okay. Only sometimes its really low or when the engine almost hit the redzone its a bit empty. No leaks nothing. Now my vds says 2 errors :
Fan 1 blocked
Fan 2 blocked
When the engine is warm the fan doesn't turn on none of them does, today at the local shop the worker did something and they started working but it doesn't turn on now its off and stays off is the fan switch dead? Is it really the the not working that's causing so much heat.
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Just bought a 2002 Prius for my daughter at an auction and the car has been driving fine the last few days even though the hybrid warning light has been on and off. Found no fault code with OBDII. Found out later from Toyota service history the cause of the hybrid warning light was a leaked hybrid battery. The previous owner disposed the car off at the auction before the problem was fixed.
I was driving today and the coolant high temperature came on and I can't rev/drive. Stopped engine and re-start after a while and coolant high temperature warning light gone. Drove a short distance and coolant high temperature warning light came back on. Used a OBDII and found no fault code. Radiator hose by the radiator cap is cold but hose at the top right side of radiator by the hybrid system is hot. Opened radiator cap and it is full of coolant.
The car has been serviced on 12/26/2012 before it went to the auction. Can air pocket trapped in the radiator cause this coolant high temperature warning light and can't rev/drive problem. Also today is the first time we didn't use the heater. We used the heater to defog the windscreen and heater work.
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I was driving my 2007 Prius on the freeway this morning after picking it up from my mechanic and the high coolant temperature warning light came on for ~4-5 seconds but then disappeared. I was able to safely drive it another 5 miles to work and park. My mechanic changed the engine and transaxle fluids in my car (along with pcv valve and serpentine belt replacement, engine oil and filter change) just before, so we think this could have been due to an air pocket in the coolant system. I will need to check the coolant level once the engine has cooled down and refill if necessary. I plan on driving it around locally before going on the freeway in case the warning comes on again.
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I have serious drain now on the left side of the vehicle, and it appears to come from the radiator itself. Coolant consumption is approaching fuel consumption. Replace the radiator in a 2006- W12? Looking for some info on similar leaks and found them not originating from the radiator?
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My CEL came on and the code said Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage. Since there are 2 sensors, and my gauge isn't reading off, about 200F constantly, I assume the bad sensor is the water pump sensor. Also, is there a diagram of the sensorny locations and the easiest way to access them to swap them out. I have already purchased the sensor and gasket, just don't want to replace the wrong one or screw something else up in the process. It appears to be an easy job.
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My oil temp usually sits around 170-190f . The water temp is always at 200. This past week, I took a 3000km trip to Maine. Great scenery!!!! The water temp would drop to 170 from time to time, Looking at a thermostat change soon, but today it pegged 200f all day, 5hr drive at highway speeds but the oil temp only rose to 150-155. Is there a thermostat in the oil cooler system?
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After just about 20min on the highway, the engine temperature has reached 115 C to 120 C that's about 230F to 250F. Also the oil temp was unusual high. After 20min I filled up a little oil and tried to check the coolant water. Unfortunately the time I took to let the cool down the engine was not enough so some coolant water spilled out of the car. So I can't say, whether there was enough water or not. Afterwords, the engine temperature still wasn't doing well at all. The oil temp was OK.
There is currently also coming a strange razing load noise from the front of the engine. The engine is a V8, 2004
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The 'issue' is that for the driver's seat (18-way seat), position 1.5 is slightly too hot and position 1.0 is slightly too cool. The adjustment is only in 0.5 increments so I have a problem - so far the only solution has been to keep changing the setting between 1.0 and 1.5 every few minutes.
On the passenger side the ratio of heat to settings is slightly different and 1.5 is about right. Is there any adjustment / calibration possible between adjustment setting and actual seat temperature?
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How are you supposed to use this switch? (the switch below the clock) I'm also confused how this switch affects the overall pre-set temperature. Is this switch supposed to allow the air conditioning system in the center vents to get colder than the other vents? If so, how can that happen?
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Just bought an '06 Phaeton and have been studying the manuals. The button directly below the clock and above the emergency flasher is labeled as "temperature controls for center air outlets" in manual 3.1.1 and refers you to 3.1.2 for explanation. But there is nothing about it there. Whatsit do? Does it over-ride the temperature set with the climate on the Infotainment screen?
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I have recently noticed that my coolant temperature indication became sluggish. Needle does not make it to "normal" temperature indication and if I turn the heater on it will drop somewhere in between "cold" and "normal" temperatures. Does it affect fuel consumption and so on? I guess maybe coolant temperature sensor is about to die.
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Where the Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the R32? Need to replace it. I searched but luck so far.
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After owning my Phaeton for over two years and never seeing the temperature gauge move past the 200 degree mark, I was surprised to see it start to fluctuate on my ride home from Michigan today.
It went up to around 240 then back to 220 and continued between those two for the duration of the 3 hour drive. I know those temperatures are within the safe range but was wondering if it would have continued to rise if I had been driving on a longer trip. Right now I have the hood opened and am waiting for the engine to cool down before checking the coolant level.
This car has operated flawlessly for me and I think a visit to the VW service department is in order prior to the warranty expiration just to have a good look at all the possible issues that might pop up! Even though I have a CPO for another 2 years, I'd prefer not to have to find out what isn't covered in a pinch.
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The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
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What is the location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor? I search but I couldn't find a picture or diagram for our car.
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I have an '07 Ford Fusion with 94,000 miles. The check engine light came on a couple of days ago, so I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes on it. The code that came up said the coolant was not reaching the proper temperature, and the mechanic told me the thermostat should probably be replaced.Two questions:
1. Should I go ahead and get it done, or wait and see if the check engine light comes back on? I usually only drive the vehicle about 10 miles a day, and it's all city driving.
2. What kind of cost should I be looking at? He said it would be a system flush, replacing the coolant and thermostat (which they would get from a dealer).
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 is giving out a P0118 code, and the "freeze-frame" data reports a -40F for the coolant temperature. That doesn't make sense so perhaps the sensor is faulty or perhaps the sensor connector is loose?
I'd like to take a look at the coolant temperature sensor but I cannot find it. I have scoured hmaservice, hyunda-forums but all the various pics are still not clear enough for me to actually find the sensor. I have seen all the online pics from Hyundai but I can't get my head around exactly where the sensor is - the pics are either too zoomed in or so many things have been disconnected for the purposes of taking the picture I can't get my bearings.
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