Phaeton :: Odd Noise In The Cabin When Steering
Jan 27, 2012
Looking at a V10 that I thought I might buy.... but it has an odd noise from the steering column. Noise is present when the engine is running - and is there whilst driving. However if, when stationary, you hold either side of the wheel and just move it fractionally, the noise goes away completely.
The noise sounds a bit like gas escaping from a pipe, or more accurately reminds me of the noise of gas being throttled like in a regrigeration circuit. Although I don't think it's anything to do with the air con. The car has the electrically adjustable column... but playing with this has now effect either.
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I am getting some rattling noise from the inside of the cabin between the front and rear passenger doors. I had the exact same thing happen on my first Phaeton at around 25000 Miles. What causes this??
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My power steering started to make noise. I checked the power fluid and it was empty. I refilled it and noticed a leak.
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Had my 2004 Phaeton in to take care of some smaller interior issues under warranty. One of them was that the steering column makes a groaning noise when it is being retracted. Service advisor told me that the Phaeton technician (who is also the shop foreman - Jim Ellis VW Marietta) told him that this is common with Phaetons and there isn't a realistic fix for it. I've read the post already about the felt strip wearing down, but I'm wondering how many of you have the steering column groaning noise when it's being retracted when the car is shut off? I'm trying to decide whether to push the issue with the dealer or just live with it.
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Accessing the evaporator drain / Liquid "sloshing" sound in cabin. finally figured out how to do this, at least for the passenger side. Look at the picture of michael's trick for reinstallation of J523. Right next to the cable that gets pulled as a trick, you can see the rubber drain hose. The soft rubber hose connects to the plastic drain of the main HVAC assembly right there. Just pull it off and the backwater can flow right out into a bucket. Then you can unclog, make sure the soft rubber hose is not getting pinched, etc.
Arrow points at passenger side evaporator drain...
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On the way home this evening the car, 3.0L TDi of 2006 vintage started making a rather loud and horrible whooooooooooOOOO noise - following the revs of the engine. Pulled in and the power steering failed...well..it came back briefly as the revs increased then went.
What do we think? PS pump? Did it lock causing the belt to make that noise as it couldn't turn the pulley, then die altogether?
Is the PS pump on the same serpentine belt at the front as everything else? I took the engine cover off and could see that the belt was still under what appeared to be normal tension.... What are the pumps like to replace?
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From time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.
90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.
If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.
After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.
This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.
Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.
I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.
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How do you avoid air (fresh??) thru closed vents? I switched the a/c off and cold air was coming in thru the closed vents. Then I turned the fan on, the vents open and I put it in Economy with the air coming from the upper panel (windshield), then shut off the fan and the vents closed. But cold air was still coming by the "closed" vents. How do you avoid that?
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Driving along last night and suddenly slightly oily smell in cabin. Then notice oil pressure drops from normal 82 ish to about 25. Recovers to about 70 by time I get to Waitrose (about ten mins). Park up and do shopping. Move car and check for oil patch - none found. Drive home and pressure still lower than usual - but recovers to just under normal. No warning lights - open oil filler cap and seems to be some in there. No oil leak found.
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After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
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I have a Phaeton V8, and at idle I can feel a slight rumbling in the cabin. Just slight, but I always imagined that you wouldn't be able to feel the engine idling clearly in the shaking of the cabin. Is everyone's like this?
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I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
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My car smells like some plastic part is burning inside. The heat works just fine but for some reason i am getting this horrible smell. How to get to air filter of the fan.
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I went in for an oil change and told them to visually inspect the car for a water leak. There was another phaeton in the shop with a water problem that was costing the customer thousands so I thought they might be able to see a red flag. I get the car back and they told me they blew air through the sunroof vents.
I've had the passenger foot well carpet up to monitor the floor to see if water has been leaking since I sealed around a couple batter terminal points that went through the firewall, and it had been dry.
But I had a feeling blowing that air through the vents might have dislodged the hose from the connector, so I put some water through the sunroof vent, and it totally started pouring into the footwell. It had NEVER done that when pouring water through the sunroof vent when I was diagnosing it before.
I feel like the dealer made the problem worse by blowing air down there, and now the dash is probably going to have to come out, and i'm assuming they will make me pay for it.
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I purchased a 2006 V-8 several months ago, and am enjoying it greatly. One thing I noticed after I bought the car is that the cabin trunk switch does not work to open the trunk. I was not too concerned since the key switch worked, so I figured I'd get the dealer to fix it when I next took it in for servicing. Well, now the trunk button won't work on any of my keys either. I think I may have held the button down too long and then it froze after trying again several times. So the bottom line is that I cannot open the trunk. Just to be clear the trunk is closed, so any remedy that requires that the trunk be open is impractical.
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Purchased a 2004 w12 several months ago , awesome cruiser.
The only fault it now has is the interior lights no longer come on when opening the drivers door and before putting the key in the ignition . I changed the comfort battery last month the old one being completely dead.
The dome interior lights will come on if the key IS in the ignition with door OPEN and go off when door is closed , the reading lights come on if you press the roof buttons but again only if ignition key in lock.
This is inconvenient as you cant find the ignition lock easily in the pitch dark. I searched the forum and one post was useful for resetting the interior light sequence ,but it didnt work when I tried it.
The procedure may have missed something out,as forum members know that the smallest step missed causes a problem.
Looking for the correct procedure to follow for the re sequencing of the interior lights. Trunk/boot light works as do puddle lights when door opened without key in ignition.
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The cabin light system in the roof for the rear passengers stopped working in my car a few weeks ago. The red ambient lighting that lights up the buttons still works, and one of the buttons lights up yellow (the one that controls whether or not the lights should turn on when the doors are opened). However, pressing any of the buttons has no effect whatsoever (although it did momentarily light up one of the side lights once or twice). The big cabin light and the two reading lights on the side refuse to light up.
According to my local Phaeton Center, the control module responsible for the rear cabin light system is not working correctly. They told me that replacing this module will cost me around 1000, including labour. This is a bit pricy for a few cabin lights, so I'd like to know if this is a known problem or if there is any way I could poke at some wires or whatever myself in an attempt to fix this without having to sponsor my local service center. The cabin lights in the front, including the sliding roof controls, work perfectly. It's only the ones in the back which have the problem.
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In my 7, if I hit the roof console center light button, it would illuminate both the front of the cabin, and my accent lights in the rear cabin, allowing me to see the kids in the back at night or ensure they have light if they can't find something.
On the Phaeton, I have not yet been able to figure out how the driver can turn on the rear cabin lights. I have the lights set on to come on when the door opens, but obviously that isn't an option underway. Is there a way for the driver to illuminate the whole cabin from the drivers seat?
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At the end of my first week of ownership, I encountered problems with the rear cabin light in my car not working properly - sometimes it came on when the doors were opened, and sometimes it did not. I mentioned it to the Phaeton technician at my dealership, and we agreed to just defer investigation and rectification until the car was due to come in for its first oil change.
After I finished putting the start button in, I ran a diagnostic scan on the car, and the problem with the rear cabin dome light was the only remaining fault code. So - I kind of figured "gee, this can't be rocket science to fix", and I removed the rear cabin light assembly from the roof of the car.
I had a close look at it, and found the cause of the problem pretty quickly. When the assembly was put together, the tiny black wire that carries power to the rear cabin interior light button became trapped between the large bus bar that serves as a ground for all the switches and some foam insulation that protects the circuit board from the ground bus bar. The entire assembly would have tested out just fine when it was manufactured, but over time, the vibration encountered in transporting the car from Germany to Canada, and the vibration caused when I drove the car around during my first week of ownership caused the bus bar to cut through the insulation on the wire - hence the short circuit. All I had to do to fix it was just poke the wire out from under the bus bar. Everything works great now.
The fault code that was generated - "Rear Interior Lamp Button - Short to Earth" was absolutely dead-on, and took me directly to the problem. I really doubt if I ever would have found this problem if the car did not have such a competent self-diagnostic system.
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When I accelerate at 70+, I get a very noticeable vibration that is felt into the steering wheel and throughout the cabin. I have 14,000 miles on the car, so I seriously doubt that it's the CV joint. Could it be possible that I lost some wheel weights, and it's become imbalanced?
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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