Phaeton :: Occasional Vibration When Coasting With Throttle Backed Off
Jul 31, 2013
I have an odd sort of occasional vibration in my 2004 W12. I've read the sticky FAQ info posts concerning vibration, but I can't find a report with the same symptoms. Here are the observations:
1. When present, the vibration comes in very mildly at 50 MPH and peaks at 65 MPH, then dropping to barely discernible at 85 MPH.
2. The car shudders under the vibration, at worst resonating interior items and can be felt through the seat.
3. The vibration ceases IMMEDIATELY at any speed when coasting with the throttle backed off.
4. Curiously, the vibration seems to be much more noticeable after about an hour's drive. Before that, not so much.
5. VAG-COM does not indicate any misfires... I was sure I have a bad coil/plug... but the controller shows no such evidence. The throttle-on shake feels like a miss.
6. Brakes on/off makes no difference.
7. Road surface does not make any difference.
8. Near new (2K miles) Yokohama YK 580 all around, stock rims. If it's balance, I doubt it would decrease at higher speed (being sub-critical). Likewise for belt bubbles or other tire flaws.
Some posts have pointed to worn suspension link bushings causing mechanical resonance at certain speed ranges, perhaps aggravated by engine torque on the mounts, so I'm leaning in that direction (bushing replacements) if nothing else comes to light.
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I have an 06 f250 superduty, 6.0 . Last week I rolled into the throttle up to about 95 and then backed off. After which it developed a thumping noise, not metal, more like an air thump in the intake. Not throwing any codes, still runs strong, pulls boost, etc. The motor does have 285,000.
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So I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
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I have an occasional thump in the front suspension that seems related to road irregularities and I presumed there might be a bushing or tie rod end or ball joint causing it. It's not metal to metal and is not a cornering thing, just going straight down the road it can happen.
My mechanic looked over the front end and nothing was obviously bad, and he concluded that it was the shock mount at the top of one of the shocks and that sounded right to me. So we looked into it and were surprised to find that there was no shock mount. The air shock seems to be an all-in-one design that just bolts to the top of the wheel well.
So, this thunk, if it is coming from the shock can only be fixed by the replacement of the shock, is that the case? Better yet, could it be something else?
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I have recently developed a vibration between 30-45mph only when coasting. It smooths out when I tap the gas. The tires are less than a year old and I just put new manual lock out hubs hoping that would correct the issue, but it didn't. There's no clunk noise when in reverse or drive but occasionally when I get on the gas there's a short squeaking noise.
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Symptom: A vibration that feels somewhat like a bouncing tire
Cause: Coasting in Drive (Applying the gas at all stops the vibration, putting the car in Neutral also stops the vibration)
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I just took delivery about 2 weeks ago of a 2011 LS 460L AWD with less than 30k miles. I have a very annoying issue that happens every time I let off the accelerator. There is a consistent vibration that seems to be coming from the drive train. It's really annoying to me. This occurs when driving about 50 mph or greater, nothing when driving at slower speeds. There is a 30 day exchange policy where I bought the car from, hope I don't need to use it.
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During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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So I've been lowered on Neuspeed Sports and Koni Yellows for the past week now. I've noticed that when driving at about 60 mph or more on the highway I occasionally get a slight vibration from the steering wheel. It doesn't always happen and I do not know if it is partly due to the road surface. it does not seem so.
Is this just because I have lowered the car and have not yet gotten an alignment done? I'm waiting a few weeks for the suspension to settle before I do that. It does look like my front camber is off a bit, but it's hard to tell for sure. I haven't had this happen before, and it doesn't happen continuously. Will an alignment remedy this?
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82000 kilometres on my 2012 v. 16 inch wheels. Serviced at the dealership right on schedule since new. Last service at 80000 they said the tires are at 2/32 tread depth and recommended replacement. Michelin energy savers, original tires. My monthly driving is only around 600 km so I decided to wait till the spring to change them.
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recently acquired an 07 mercury metallic with 118000 one owner and about 8 pages of maintenance all done at Lexus. car is in fantastic shape new tires, and brakes the interior still looks and feels brand new, to date I have changed the oil full synthetic 0W 20, eng and cabin air filters Toyota serviced the transmission changed the plugs with OEM off ebay. Rotated tires, rear diff fluid i couldnt find 75 / 85 anywhere so it wasn't too expensive from Toyota. the front left low beam was flickering so I replaced them I followed cucusdad instructions and it went as he mentioned about an hour per side, although I did take the opportunity to clean the inner fender well and the inside of the tires and rims.T hrough the years we have owned countless cars a couple of brand new ones although this is the first Lexus, I am very handy in the garage and have an understanding of electronics and maintenance upon reading this forum I think folks perhaps want perfect that's impossible as for mentioned this vehicle has been well maintained and obviously personally cared for.
: passanger seat heater/cool inop no light, (wifes only complaint, believe me that's saying a lot)
: aux audio input has intermediate static
: passanger rear door puddle light inop.
: slightly yellowed headlights.
: occasional vibration feels to be from front left while braking although mostly tracks straight ahead
: a very quiet car although I have read and may someday entertain some wind noise application on the triangle piece
None of these anywhere unreasonable on any car with similar miles and production date regardless the manufacture
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Vehicle: 1998 F150, 158k mi. MT (M5OD), 4.9l I-6.
Description of problem: About 2 weeks/500 miles ago, truck developed a scraping/squeaking sound. I thought maybe something was rubbing on the driveshaft, but inspection revealed no likely candidate, nor disturbed metal on the shaft.
Over the course of the next 500 miles, it's gotten worse, so that current symptoms exhibit themselves (to one degree or another) 80% of the time. The symptoms are:
- Worst on first drive of day, on first mile.
- Sound produced somewhere between scrape and squeak.
- Vibration noticed throughout cab and through steering wheel ONLY when foot off clutch...smooth as soon as clutch depressed.
- Giving it a little gas (at constant speed) usually smooths out symptoms somewhat.
- Recently had bed loaded to gross. Vibrations went away, to return once bed empty.
- MT fluid found to be full, in good condition, and with 15k mi since change.
So, what's up? Given that a load in the bed improves things, I was thinking U-joints: but the driveshaft spins in neutral, too, so why would pressing the clutch change anything? I also thought about tired clutch bearings, but everything I've read says pressing the clutch makes things worse, not better.
Is it worth examining the tranny-to-engine bolts?
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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Our 2004 Santa Fe 6 cylinder ( front wheel drive) was being backed up when a Clunk was heard, and then the Battery and the Brake lights came on. My wife called the dealership and they say not to drive it, but to bring it to them. What could the issue be?
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I'm not sure what the noise is, but it sounds expensive. Backed out of parking spot, started making an awful clunky grindy noise. Put in drive and more noise but no go. Put in neutral, still grinding but stopped after a minute. Pushed back into spot, waiting for AAA. Interesting it would not go into park from N until the grinding stopped. No lights on dash interestingly, except the snakes chasing your car (traction?) light flashes intermittently while it's grinding.
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I have just purchased a 2004 v 8 phaeton with only 12k miles. it drive great except that when I give throttle /acceleration there is a noise (low pitched- hollow). I do not know if this is a normal noise or something which i need to worry about and always the engine coolant temperature gauge is at 200 (which is in the normal range- not sure because the temperature outside is high 102f). it drives great and all functions are fine. Do I need to change something or take it to dealer. the local dealer recently changed oil .
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2002 Ford 7.3L 2WD 200K miles ....My starter was making a grinding noise and the bolts had backed out. Wound up replacing the starter all together. Seemed to work for a little while and then went back to making the grinding noise again. I took the starter back and got a warranty replacement and took it to the shop last week to have it installed with lock-tite. It worked perfectly for a few days and then went back to grinding again yesterday afternoon. Why it is still doing it? I bought a new Duralast Gold 5154 starter from Autozone.
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for the last several weeks, I've noticed a problem that seems to be getting progressively worse... there is a vibration seemingly from the front end (possibly passenger side), and it only appears on the interstate at typical highway speeds (70-75 MPH). facts:
1. It does not happen below ~70 mph.
2. It doesn't appear to be a wheel bearing - no noticeable change in tone or "amplitude" while turning at speed.
3. I use cruise control all the time on the highway, and it is more noticeable going downhill (increases in vibration), when the engine is obviously off-throttle.
4. The car is a 99 V6 5mt.
5. The axles that are presently on the car are Raxles, and have been on it for ~4 1/2 to 5 years.
6. I recently changed over (this past weekend) to my winter/stock wheels and tires, but it was doing it with the summer wheels and tires.
7. It happens regardless if the gears are engaged or not (5th or neutral - I coasted down a hill on the interstate today in neutral to add more info).
8. I've replaced the wheel bearing on the passenger side about 6 weeks ago.
I'm thinking I have an inner CV Joint that is starting to fail. The boots are intact, as I inspected them recently while replacing the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing/flywheel. The transmission axle flanges had no play. The vibration was occuring prior to when I changed out the clutch.
Thoughts? Inner CV joint, or...???
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OK, I've got a 2006 2.0t with 76k on it. It's been a problem car, but I thought I'd nailed everything down. but the last month or so when I put gas in it it'll start rough. Today on the freeway I floored it to pass someone and it started vibrating violently and the check engine light started blinking, I let off the gas and suddenly the vibration went away and it was just smooth as can be. But when ever I accelerate through 2.5-4k on the tach it gets rough again. No clue what's going on and unfortunately I'm not in a spot where I can fix anything expensive on it. What's going on?
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I got my d2 coils installed yesterday, everything looks good, however when I'm in throttle it shakes a little. When I'm coasting its fine.
I'm getting an alignment tomorrow they said it could fix the problem a little but the cause of the vibrations is because the angle the axels are in now. Thinking of raising it a little if after the alignment it's still there.
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My 2010 Prius with 140000km has developed a vibration noticeable anywhere from 50-80 km/hr when in slight acceleration (just over 1/2 on the green bars) with the ICE running. Dropping the throttle or hard acceleration makes it disappear completely - which tells me it's driveline related. It feels like its coming from the passenger side, particularly rear, but it's definitely getting worse and I can now feel it in the driver's door panel so it's becoming a major concern.
My first thought (due to the location) was a bad muffler but it's not any louder. I'm starting to worry it may be a transaxle bearing. I can't see it being a cv joint as there's no noises when cornering and everything underneath looked OK at a recent oil change. I love this car (what Prius owner doesn't?) and I sure can't afford to replace it. It's been babied since day one.
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