Phaeton :: Noise From Tires Or Wheels?
Jan 3, 2011
I am experiencing some noise coming from tires or wheels or both. I had a pair of nexen n3000 that lasted about 30,000 miles.
Last week I replaced them with Hankook Verus V12 255 45 18 that seemed to be a high rated tire by multiple sources. After I had them put on and road force balaced, It seemed like the right rear or passenger tire were making a noise that became pretty loud at 45 miles an hour thru to about 60 and then started to quiet down a little.
I then needed to replace the control arms on the front tires(front and rear; btw I have a great place that will get the parts very cheap if you need the control arms) So I had them replaced, and had the car aligned.
After all of that, I drove the car about 100 miles and it still was making noise. The dealership said the noise wasn't the wheel bearings, and that it was probably the high performance tire I had on it.
So I went to discount tire and they replaced them for me with Continental Extreme contact DWS tires that are rates much better and everyone that has reviewed them says they are quiet and have a good tread wear life.
But I just drove 5 miles on them, and they have the same problem. So either it is a coincidence the both sets of tires are bad. (which is unlikely)
Or: Wheel bearings are worn? Pressure isn't right(i have 38 on the front 35 on the rear)? Or another component I'm not accounting for.
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So they made it a 3-wheel rotation, and left the left-rear wheel in place. I had a puncture driving over a piece of road junk last spring out of state and had to buy a new tire. Clearly the people at Roadside Tire had no clue (although why they messed with the other three wheels is a mystery. But although the left rear is the newest tire, i still don't want to have to trade the car in when the tire is worn! Nor do I want to trash out the rest of the assembly. What to do?
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2007 Passat wagon with TPMS. Getting new sensors and a set of winter tires and wheels.
Can I ad the new sensors the my Passat using a VagCom or some other method?
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my car is basically bone stock (2010 Corolla S). I'm looking at getting Eibach lowering springs fairly soon, and later on new tires/wheels. My question is what are the biggest wheels and tires I can get after I install these springs? Will 17" rims fit? Or does it depend on the tire as well?
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I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
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With average temperatures going over 10 C, it's time to switch tires, so I did. I have a set of 20" ATP Inox wheels with Nokian NRVi 275/45 tires, that are only used for the summer (in the winter the stock 17" canyons are used), the wheels and tires are not new, they've been on the T last summer as well without any problems.
But now, I hear a ticking noise in all 4 wheels or tires when driving. The sound doesn't stop at higher speeds (only more difficult to hear due to wind noise), and it occurs on the same spot in every wheel rotation. It's like there's a big nail in all 4 tires, but: there isn't one, nor anything else, and there's plenty of thread left (> 1 cm).
The noise stops sometimes when braking or turning. I contacted and visited the dealer, and he couldn't find anything but assured me that it couldn't be that big a problem. What I checked:
- air pressure (3 Kg/cm rear, 2.6 Kg/cm front)
- all bolts properly tightened
- no nails, stones, whatsoever in the tires
- no loose cables, brake pads, or things like that
- thread wear is ok
- I have no TPMS so no lost sensors inside the wheels
If the problem persists, the dealer will take the tires off of the wheels and check inside, but according to me it's very unlikely that there's something inside all 4 tires.
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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I have heard that many people are switching to the nitrogen in tires as it is to improve gas mileage. I know they offered it at the Lexus dealership, but I never took advantage of it.
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