The other day I went to leave a car park and started moving but the car didn't respond to the accelerator - it was moving with no errors on the MFD but only at idle.
I'll get a VCDS scan tomorrow? Is there a known issue with the accelerator potential meter or wiring?
My V6 3.0 TDI 2007 car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hiccup in accelerator response from standstill. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recently maintained by VW dealer.
View 11 Repliesmy 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
View 15 RepliesJust got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
New 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 Replies2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
View 14 Repliesi have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
View 14 RepliesMy car is suffering after being stood out in heavy rain - which there's been a lot of recently. When I go to unlock it there is no response and starting requires using the key to be turned left first. Keyless entry doesn't work. All electrics are dead until the car starts. When it's not raining everything's OK again.
View 2 RepliesGot a bit of an issue with the cabin lights in the rear. I am able to manually turn on the lights by pushing the individual light buttons, however if I push either the 'door open' or 'rear light' buttons there is no response.
View 3 RepliesWell again my celly has died. I was driving down the road listening to some tunes when i noticed all of a sudden i had no throttle response and when I turned down the music my engine had cut out. Well i tried to start it back up and it was a no go. I tested for spark and I am getting nothing, I replaced the main relay and the distributor. I have new plug wires and NGK spark plugs in. This is my main source of transportation so any leads would be amazing. I have a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 4AFE.
View 7 RepliesI want to get rid the delayed throttle response on my 01 B5.5 passat V6. I've heard of this "Sprint Booster" product, which seems like it works, although it kills your throttle modulation abilities. I was looking into the Unitronic chip, its supposedly gives 16HP .
View 21 RepliesMy accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
View 13 RepliesWe love our Touareg, but one things plagues our truck. There is a terrible lag in throttle response. We press the pedal down some, nothing, press some more, little to nothing nothing (like it is starting to crawl), press some more and ZOOM - the truck takes off. Kinda hard to drive like that... Is this expected behavior or is there a programmer to fix it? We have an 06 V8 and have not had any luck finding one so far.
View 3 RepliesI am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
View 23 RepliesWent to install my intake last night, got everything in and together, started up the car and it idled just fine. Backed it out of the garage, put it in drive and had no throttle response. I was only able to coast. I did some research and tried replacing the fuse, cleaning the battery terminals and took the K&N intake out and replaced it back to stock. Still no change and still have the check engine light on.
View 14 RepliesThe other day, I had occasion to try to start my '08 Ltd, and there was no starter response to the key. Everything lit up and didn't dim when turning the key. Jiggled the key a few times, no change. Jiggled the shift lever a few times, no change. Turned the key a few more times, and it started. Yes, the vehicle was definitely in Park at the time.
This one has an automatic, so I'm assuming it was either a shift interlock switch (aka Neutral Safety Switch) or possibly the ignition switch itself, but as noted, neither responded to my ham handed approach to solving the problem. First time, it took about half a dozen start attempts. The second time, only three.
Haven't had the problem since then, but then again, I haven't been cycling the ignition as much as I was that day (probably 20 start stop cycles). Now I'm just wondering where and when it will bite me again. Some of the places I take this vehicle to the boonies in the Rocky Mountains would cost me dearly in tow charges.
Encountered this on an earlier CM model? I don't recall ever seeing this mentioned here over the years.
The following day, the wagon didn't start in the shopping mall. Key in ignition, dash lights ignition on everything normal, push in to start, no response.
The battery's not the problem. The car was towed to a dealer by a very tired tow truck driver, it was unusually hot yesterday. Hottest August day we've ever had in history.
Feel that VW has tuned down the throttle response of 2.5 I5. Well after having the car 2 weeks now, I don't hate the engine as much, and I don't think the issue I am having is with the engine it-self. In sport mode and tip mode it is much better, Once the car decides to give me what I want, it has plenty power. But in auto mode, It has to do with starting off from first gear at a stop. I really believe it has to be a software problem the way the throttle is mapped in the DBW. The problem is there is little throttle response off the line. Like I push the accelerator down halfway quickly, and the engine throttle opens maybe 1/8 and slowly goes to 1/2 like 5 seconds later. It's more of a drive-ability problem. It's like no other car i have ever driven. If I give half throttle, I expect the car to open to half throttle immediately, and not delay it. I really hope VW comes up with a fix for this, I'm sure it is just a programing problem. So am I the only one?
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