My first key is damaged and than it stopped to working. Now i am using my second car key (spare one). Thus i decide to buy the new key as a spare from Germany. It is original and came to me according to VIN number. How to make adaptation for the new key using VCDS (Vag-Com)?
View 3 RepliesI've been using my HEX+CAN and VCDS a lot lately, and find that a lot of the time I get many communication errors. This makes some things, like looking into the measured blocks on the engine controller nearly impossible. Very close to impossible. Could barely find out that my second MAF sensor was bad (replaced, now.) Is this standard for Phaetons, or is this just me?
I am using Mac OS X 10.8.4, with Parallels Desktop 7 running Windows XP SP3 x86. It occurs with both the latest stable and beta versions of VCDS.
I tested my new VCDS today a HEX-USB+CAN. I got CAN: Not Ready. But that's impossible.
My guess is that the OBD2 interface I got is faulty.
I have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
I installed a set of brushed aluminum pedal about a month ago and now I feel that the car does not have the same power and acceleration like before! I mean if on 60mph cruising I want to accelerate to pass a car and push the pedal all the way up to the acceleration bottom the Trani only downshifts up to 3000 rpm and if I want pass quicker then push it all the way to the bottom then it shifts to 5000 rpm, in sport mode it is different and looks OK.
View 8 RepliesI recently installed the apr turbo compressor inlet hose and eurojet smic on my 20th. I am running apr stg. 1 software on apr diverter valve. I also have 3" ghl turbo back exhaust. The three codes I am getting triggered shortly after the 2 upgrades I mentioned above we're installed. In detail the codes read specific:
-idle air control system: RPM higher than expected
-bank 1 mixture adaptation(add): system too lean
-turbo/super charger: overboost condition
When the car idles it seems to miss every now and then I think cause the fuel mixture. It also does idle higher than it did before (~900rpm) when the cel comes on it seems to fix the missing issue but not idle rpms. I am running the stock ko3s turbo and am soon planning on a Eurosport cold air intake. Am I harming my engine? Can I get the light to stay off?
I'm looking for tricks that I could do changing the codes in my golf like turning traction control off and ESP off.
2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
Recently got my VCDS USB cable that I can use on the newer 1.8T Jettas and I haven't found a measuring block for boost or MAP data. My Scan Gauges don't give a MAP data field either for the 1.8T engine, while it does for the TDIs.
Where do I find this data? Surely the ECU monitors boost?
Couldn't find anything while hooked up to the Buddys Passat 1.8 that we did a TB and thermostat on yesterday.
I got the bec autoparts gti reps from Ed. I know HID's aren't perfect so sometimes they don't turn on but just turning the headlights off and then works to have them turn on. Whatever no big deal, but, every time it happens I get a check low beam headlight message that won't go away until I disconnect the battery terminal. So what I'm asking any trick with vcds to disable these messages. Idc to not have that caution. I just can't read German and don't know how to maneuver vcds.
View 1 RepliesSo I am having this weird electrical issue when connecting VCDS. Every time VCDS begins to scan, the door seems to receive an unlock command and then the car will stall and shut off. I have tried doing different things but no luck. Possibly a bad ground somewhere? Also, when the car stalls out, VCDS then picks up a few codes. I can clear the codes just fine but every time this happens, the codes return. Here are the VCDS codes:
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 J
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9.2 AT V06
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 2959A211D3043F762A-4AE4
8 Faults Found:
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1225 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)
P1226 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)
P1227 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)
P1228 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17859 - Secondary Air Injection System
P1451 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
P1421 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1425 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
It seems that only the engine controller is being affected. Assuming that the car doors run under the same controller?
I just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
I am about to acquire a Silver 2004 v8 Phaeton with 83000 mi. There is an issue that the owner is going to fix, but he and his Phaeton mechanic have not yet diagnosed correctly. It is a hum that comes and goes with a periodicity of about once a second (as in "waa waa waa ...") , seems to be coming from the left front. It becomes noticeable around 45 mph and as the speed increases it gets a bit louder and pitch gets higher but the waa waa ... interval does not speed up. Of course it might be speeding up so slowly that seems to be constant but doesn't seem that way.
They have replaced the tires and the LF wheel bearing. I know there are some wheel bearing issues and that is the usual suspect, but wouldn't a wheel bearing make a constant "waaaaa" and not a repeating harmonic "waa waa waa..."?
Also a harmonic resonance, which this seems to be requires 2 inputs, which are not quite at the same frequency. So I had thought about the cv joints, inner vs outer. I had the car on a lift with a mechanic that I have worked with for some time (german car specialist), and the cv boots were in good shape, so it seems unlikely that the cv joint(s) are bad as they usually (to my knowledge, which could be incorrect) do not fail unless the boot gets damaged and lube leaks out and dirt gets in.
I finally took possession of my Phaeton and have been driving it daily. We're very quickly falling in love. With the Northeast snow storm that just hit, I've now had the opportunity to see how it performs in slippery conditions. When it comes to going, I'm loving the AWD. When it comes to stopping, there are some issues. The car is so heavy that it's difficult to wrangle that inertia, and the ABS is driving me a little nuts. I grew up inland from Lake Ontario, in the northern edge of upstate New York's "snow belt." I've been driving in snow since I've been driving. I think ABS is great for the masses, but frankly I can stop the car more effectively (if a little less controlled) without it. It doesn't look like there's any way to disable it, like you can with the traction control. Are there any secret tips?
View 14 RepliesYesterday, I parked my Phaeton and hit the button to lock it. Nothing. I walked all around the car, pressing the button a couple dozen times. Still nothing. The trunk release button wouldn't respond either.
So I get in the car, start it up again, turn it back off, and try the key again. This time, it locks normally on the first try. What is the reason for it?
My Wife has been driving my Phaeton once a week to keep everything working normally. She hand washed the car and somehow during the washing evolution she set the alarm off. Now she's telling me the car will start but then it shuts down and also she can't get the key out of the ignition.
I had the car setup for a tow to the VW dealer so they could figure things out but the tow truck driver couldn't get it started or get the key out either so they couldn't tow it and from what my wife told me, they bought the wrong type of tow truck.
I don't know if this is a battery issue or what because the wife stated she hasn't had any problems cranking the car previously and battery has always shown the proper voltage and was checked by the VW dealership a few months ago and got a good bill of health.
So driving the Phaeton on a road trip today. I believe it did not lock on to any satellites and then the compass pointed the wrong direction for a while, leaving me in the middle of the ocean (I was on the coast of California).
My problem now is that after restarting the car multiple times I am still way out in the middle of the ocean. Is there any way to clear the cached GPS location data, or otherwise reset the navigation system? The reset function did nothing.
Edit: This actually happens rather often however typically fixes itself pretty quickly. Unfortunately I don't think it will recover this time in the same fashion, as recovery is typically very gradual and I am apparently about 150 miles out to sea at the moment.
I assume that it is here someplace, but I did a search and couldn't find it. Is there some information available to compare the Phaeton with the Audi models? I understand that they are similar, but the Phaeton has many options included (especially the W12's), where the Audi has them as options. Is this the case?
View 15 RepliesSometimes when I go to start my Phaeton it won't turn over or start. I turn the ignition to the right then all the way left and press the brake. After doing this a few times, til the brake pedal no longer has much give, the car will start fine.
What could be causing this? It's starting to happen a little more frequently. I have an 04 W12 ....
My V8 has been pretty much flawless for the last 25,000 miles that I have owned it. Currently has 67k miles.
One thing I've always noticed is a slight vibration at idle. Nothing too harsh, but certainly can feel it.
Am I spoiled by the Lexus, which sometimes I can't even tell if the engine is on?
Had a really annoying noise from the HVAC today which sounded like something catching on the fan - but it would stop at moderate speed or when the air flow flap was closed. I took off the plenum cover and moved the flap spindle slightly which seemed to cure the problem. Could it be wear in the spindle (or lack of lubrication) causing the flap to vibrate, noting that with the HVAC in auto the fan is running fairly fast most of the time (and I always have it in auto). I have seen the thread about leaves getting into the HVAC plenum but I dont think thats the issue.
View 6 Replies