My oil temp usually sits around 170-190f . The water temp is always at 200. This past week, I took a 3000km trip to Maine. Great scenery!!!! The water temp would drop to 170 from time to time, Looking at a thermostat change soon, but today it pegged 200f all day, 5hr drive at highway speeds but the oil temp only rose to 150-155. Is there a thermostat in the oil cooler system?
View 2 RepliesI have a toyota avensis 2001 1.8 vvt-i. Suddenly when i was going to start the car, it started to vibrate and rpm got lower than usual and the engine light was lit. So i changed the spark plug (all of the four). It did still vibrate but less, i could feem it. And when i tried to drive upwards with 1st gear the car started to smell and couldn't get up. It lost do much power. It can drive max. 60 kmh
View 1 RepliesYesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
View 6 RepliesMy 2007 5.7 Toyota Tundra has developed a quirky habit when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees, the transmission fails to change gear ratios properly until such time as the truck warms up. In other words, for the first several blocks leaving home in the morning, the Tachometer reads 2,000 at 30 MPH, but when it warms up, the tach will drop to 1200 to 1500 at 30 MPH. The truck started doing this around 40,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles and my warranty will expire at 60,000 miles. The dealer tells me that the failure of the transmission shifting properly when cold is NOT an indication that my transmission might be in the need of repair or adjustment.
View 6 RepliesChasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
Perhaps there's a perfectly logical explanation for this, but why my Phaeton would lower itself with no external input or cause? I've noticed this only in--don't laugh--drive-through's. I pull up, place my order, and as I'm doing so the nose of the car lowers, then the rear. It never seems to happen when I'm, say, idling at a stop light or just sitting in the car parked for a few minutes. It's really strange, but as far as I can tell, extremely consistent.
View 5 RepliesI went to my car about an hour ago to check the air pressure and add air to it due to the TMPS whining. While doing this I noticed that it seems like the passenger side of the car is sitting lower (space between the tire and wheel well is smaller) than on the driver side.
Is this possible and what could be the cause of this if my eyes weren't deceiving me?
Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
View 7 RepliesI am trying to remove the lower half of the air filter. How do I do that. I removed the upper half , the air filter and the snow screen. The lower half moves in its place but does not come out. Is there a special procedure to remove it ?
View 1 RepliesHaving read the very informative Phaeton Suspension Self Study Guide. What is the speed at which the Phaeton automatically goes into 'low level' mode?
According to the above schematic, the car will automatically lower itself after traveling at 87 MPH for more than 30 seconds. Great on the Autobahns of Germany, but inducing potential license loss elsewhere.
Would be good if we could invoke that mode at a slightly reduced speed.
After just about 20min on the highway, the engine temperature has reached 115 C to 120 C that's about 230F to 250F. Also the oil temp was unusual high. After 20min I filled up a little oil and tried to check the coolant water. Unfortunately the time I took to let the cool down the engine was not enough so some coolant water spilled out of the car. So I can't say, whether there was enough water or not. Afterwords, the engine temperature still wasn't doing well at all. The oil temp was OK.
There is currently also coming a strange razing load noise from the front of the engine. The engine is a V8, 2004
The 'issue' is that for the driver's seat (18-way seat), position 1.5 is slightly too hot and position 1.0 is slightly too cool. The adjustment is only in 0.5 increments so I have a problem - so far the only solution has been to keep changing the setting between 1.0 and 1.5 every few minutes.
On the passenger side the ratio of heat to settings is slightly different and 1.5 is about right. Is there any adjustment / calibration possible between adjustment setting and actual seat temperature?
How are you supposed to use this switch? (the switch below the clock) I'm also confused how this switch affects the overall pre-set temperature. Is this switch supposed to allow the air conditioning system in the center vents to get colder than the other vents? If so, how can that happen?
View 2 RepliesMy lower beams started to flicker, red as hell, too. Can I change them myself? I've got a 2004 V8 Bi Xenon car. Is it possible to be serviced without removing the front bumper? If not, does a manual exist on how to remove that damn bumper and the lamp module to get access to those lower beams?
View 1 RepliesJust bought an '06 Phaeton and have been studying the manuals. The button directly below the clock and above the emergency flasher is labeled as "temperature controls for center air outlets" in manual 3.1.1 and refers you to 3.1.2 for explanation. But there is nothing about it there. Whatsit do? Does it over-ride the temperature set with the climate on the Infotainment screen?
View 2 RepliesI seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
I have the '05 V8.
The crack seems to originate at the lower right corner of the rear view mirror assembly contact point and spreads out in four opposing directions including two to the top edge of the glass. I could find zero chips on the outside of the glass at the nexus point of the crack. I also did not get hit in the windshield while driving -- not that I noticed anyway.
We went to the opera at night drove it home and noticed no damage and parked in the garage. The next day I went to the garage and noticed the crack (the cracks are about 8 inches long or so). The garage was very hot.
Is it POSSIBLE, and are there any reports of this happening, that the heat or something else caused the rearview mirror assembly to torque and crack the windshield or am I dreaming that I can blame VW and I just must have missed the crack when I drove home and it happened some other way.
I've noticed on both rear doors, the Lower Moulding (black cover at the bottom of the door) #12 in the attached diagram (Light Blue Circle), is very much separated from the body of the car, it's like bended toward the outside, but it seems to be exactly the same on both sides, I am not sure if this is normal or mine has a defect
Both front doors are OK, not 100% perfectly aligned with the body of the car, but MUCH better than the rear doors....
After owning my Phaeton for over two years and never seeing the temperature gauge move past the 200 degree mark, I was surprised to see it start to fluctuate on my ride home from Michigan today.
It went up to around 240 then back to 220 and continued between those two for the duration of the 3 hour drive. I know those temperatures are within the safe range but was wondering if it would have continued to rise if I had been driving on a longer trip. Right now I have the hood opened and am waiting for the engine to cool down before checking the coolant level.
This car has operated flawlessly for me and I think a visit to the VW service department is in order prior to the warranty expiration just to have a good look at all the possible issues that might pop up! Even though I have a CPO for another 2 years, I'd prefer not to have to find out what isn't covered in a pinch.
The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
When I drive 30 min the oil temp raises up to 110c and the coolant raises up to the redzone. And when I stop for a red light my front window get fogged all the way I can see barely anything.
Coolant is filled everything is okay. Only sometimes its really low or when the engine almost hit the redzone its a bit empty. No leaks nothing. Now my vds says 2 errors :
Fan 1 blocked
Fan 2 blocked
When the engine is warm the fan doesn't turn on none of them does, today at the local shop the worker did something and they started working but it doesn't turn on now its off and stays off is the fan switch dead? Is it really the the not working that's causing so much heat.