Phaeton :: Low RPM Cruising / Rough Downshift
Aug 13, 2011
My V8 NAR Phaeton started with a problem today which is exhibited at low RPM cruising. It is as if an invisible person is tapping the accelerator rhythmically. For example, when going 30MPH with my foot steady on the accelerator, the car will fluctuate between 1300rpm and 1600 rpm, and if I happen to brake during one of these surges I will experience a rough downshift. A complete VAG Com scan revealed nothing code-wise. the car seems to shift fine when accelerating, and according to the center display there are no gear shifts occurring when these RPM fluctuations occur. If I manually select a gear and cruise at a higher RPM, these fluctuations do not occur.
If my description is not clear, I could possibly post a video. I don't have much luck with the search function on this forum, just want to make sure this isn't a well known issue before I trouble with video.
The car is 2004, 113K miles. It has the original batteries which will be replaced in 2 weeks time, but I have not been having any electrical problems.
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I really do love the Phaeon and experienced a hard downshift from 3 to 2 when slowing at certain speeds. The trans is very smooth on the way up but if a let it coast down to zero while applying light brake pressure I get a hard shift from 3 to 2. It is currently at the dealer for service and they have checked everything and state I should just watch for it. They checked all the TSB's, fluids, etc. I wouldn't mind if I knew this was normal for the Phaeton.
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I was getting off the interstate today, and the passat had a really hard down shift.
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My 3.6 4motion has a rough downshift, 4th to 3rd. I can feel the clunk. The service department (which has been otherwise great, at Gurley Leep in South Bend, IN) says it's "within specs." And no TSB. I know we've discussed the TSB for the rough downshift on the 2.0T. Anything on the 3.6 4motion?
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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When I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
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My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
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My 2009 Sonata (4 Cyl.) has begun to downshift very rough while coming to a stop from about 20 mph. At first I thought it was the brakes, but now I'm convinced it's the transmission. Essentially it "jerks" a couple of times before stopping. It started happening at 30,000+ and only happens when transmission is still cold. Once I've driven for a bit it doesn't happen.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with 150K+ miles on it. Lately the transmission seems "rough" as in it seems to 'thud' randomly when I step on the gas while cruising. I think it's trying to change gears, but I'm not sure. It runs okay, but I feel like I should start thinking about rebuilding the transmission. I have access to a full set of tools and mechanics on hand and about a weeks worth of time. Think I can do it?
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Yesterday, I heard a loud "pop" while cruising at 60mph. Pull into a rest stop and and discovered a hole in the muffler. The engine now idled roughly, but seem to smooth out about 2000 rpm.
Question for the experts: can the loss of a muffler cause the engine to run rough? It's a 460cid in a '77 F350.
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Had a slight shutter or jerking feeling in their LS, sort of like the rotors are warped, when they slow to a stop from 40+ MPH? I just cannot make the car stop smoothly no matter the amount of brake pressure I apply.
I can 100% eliminated the issue if I shift the car into neutral before I slow down. So it has to be the the transmission not downshifting smoothly. Done it from day one. I even replaced my rotors and brakes so I know that isn't it.
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I recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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I'm having a ton of fun driving in Sport transmission mode. One thing I'm noticing though is pretty rough downshifting from 3-2-1 sometimes. Often I hear and feel a clunk.
So I'm wondering if the transmission may not be adapted to me yet, since I've only had the car for 5 weeks, or could I be looking at an issue. No lights or warnings on the dash.
Also wondering if there is a way to "reset" the learning algorithm of the transmission without the VAGCOM?
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Yesterday I started up my Phaeton after it had been sitting for about almost a week. When it turned over it had a rough idle and also a fuel smell, as I drove it the idle went away. However I have never had this happen before and the fuel smell concerned me.
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Have been to dealer multiple times with concerns about speaker vibration from rear passenger door and rattle when going over rough spots from same general area. They end up saying they have not heard anything and I end up feeling like I am losing my mind. Does seem to be worse some times than others. Last weekend I opened the door and tapped the area around the base speaker. Lo and behold, sounds like there is something loose in there. Seems like it is moving around freely at times and may be caught somewhere and thus quiet at other times. What might be in there? Any easy way of getting at it on my own?
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Need to noticeably reducing road/tire noise? I love how civilized and relaxed this car can be, but there is a decent amount of noise while cruising. Nothing extreme, but if I could reduce this by a good amount, without much of a weight penalty, I would certainly consider it. Is dynamat a feasible option? And yes, the soundaktor is long gone.
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I have been noticing some vibration from the rear of the car while cruising between 75-78 mph. I had the tires balanced at Lexus 2 weeks ago and the car feels better but not perfect. I called the service advisor and he said the read out on the balance sheet showed that the tires were balanced perfectly but they will look at it again.
My issue is that I am going to have a set of 22's installed on Monday and I want to make sure nothing is wrong with the car itself because once the aftermarket wheels go on the dealership basically washes their hands of the vibration issues. The tires on the stock wheels are brand new and maybe have 1000 miles on them.
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I've got a 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 250k mi. Makes the wroh wroh wroh wheel bearing sound, but wheel bearings are new and rock solid. I have been able to feel it through the floorboard and steering wheel for months now. But yesterday, while cruising at about 80MPH on I64, it got worse. Every now and then, I get a clunk clunk clunk mixed in with the wroh wroh wroh and it sounds really bad. When I turn hard left, the sound goes away. When I turn right, It sounds like satan is trying to escape my engine bay. The faster I go, the more violent it gets. No clicking when I turn, so I've ruled out outer CV joint, but was thinking that maybe it was the inner Cv joint?
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Picked up an R about a month ago. Have noticed a harmonic vibration when cruising just above 70 mph to 75 mph from the rear. I can assure you that it is not the wheel balance. Seems to go away if I depress the clutch. I'm thinking it is the butterfly valve on the muffler not fully closing and creating a resonance by fluttering at the rpms (exhaust flow) between 70-75 mph. I haven't tried disconnecting/plugging the vacuum line yet.
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