Phaeton :: Loud Click From Left Side Of Trunk
Feb 8, 2016
When I start to take the car out of Drive, as soon as I push the chrome button on the gear selector, I get a loud click from the left side of the trunk. Is this a relay that is going bad or could it have something to do with the transmission? I get the sound before the car even goes into Reverse.
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Today I tried to open the trunk from the Remote and the Door switch, and it will not pop up, after pressing the button (remote or door) you will hear the click from the switch in the trunk itself, but nothing else, before (when the trunk was working) after the click it will pop up 5 mm that way I can slide my fingers under and lift it.
Dealer said the latch is not pushing the trunk up and they are going to replace it ? After checking the parts manual I can see there are two types of latch, with Hydraulic with Closing assist (P/N: 3D5 827 302 J) and No Closing Assist, that means that's the part they are going to change, the one with Closing Assist ?
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I got the "check lights" message a few days ago, however only driving the car during the day for those days I couldn't immediately track down the problem. Well, tonight we went out for Goodberry's (frozen custard chain in NC..amazing), and I noticed the passenger-side trunk tail light was out. The other three lights were fine. Now, since these are LED and the entire circle of lights is out, my first thought was a fuse. I checked the fuse (24 if I remember correctly) and it looked to be fine. Besides, I think both of the right-side lights are on that fuse. So, it's most likely not the 20 bulbs that are in there and doesn't seem to be the fuse.
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Trunk release switch on drivers door does not open trunk. Remote and key will open trunk. Sounds like a motor is trying to close the trunk when it is being closed, but does not pull it shut ?
1. I did pull on the switch
2. Gas door switch works fine
3. It is a standard trunk (not powered)
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The trunk lock switch on the d/s inner door panel has stopped working. Also both remotes won"t open the trunk as well. Everything else seems to be OK.
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For a while now I have been getting water in the trunk of my old 2001 Prius. Its dripping from the left side (driver's side) cutout in the upper part of the trunk.
I tried resealing the rear window and I am confident there is no openings there. The only thing I can determine is that I need to replace the trunk gasket. Having a hard time finding a replacement seal for that model, 2001 Prius?
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I am trying to find out what's going on with my GX470. It's a 2003 and I just hit 125,000 miles. Over the past couple of months it has developed a loud roar on the left side that gets louder as I pick up speed. The kicker is that it doesn't do it what so ever when turning right? Where to start???
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I have been getting a sound like a loud cpu fan on the driver's side of the console wall, just below the ignition port. Any other NAR cars have this problem? It will go away after awhile but will turn back on again.
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I replaced my original wheel bearings at 90-95k miles. I'm at 145k now and seems like my wheel bearings are going out again. Very loud whir/grumble from what seems like the left side. When going straight or turning right, you don't' hear it much. But turning left it gets louder and very pronounced.
I do drive fairly aggressively and have upper strut brace, lower frame stiffener and so on. Plus it's a Touring edition and I do like taking my on/off ramps with zest.
Anyways, what would be the best quality/brand of wheel bearings to replace? Last time I had a friend replace them who is a Toyota mechanic and he did it at his house. He told me he used Toyota parts. I'm the type who likes to use OEM, but these don't seem to be holding up well??
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Had window on drivers side all the way down. Went to push button to raise. Window gets gets half way up and I hear a loud snap! I continue to push button and raised window all the way up. Now I hear wind and whistle sound. Does not seem to be as tight? Afraid to lower window as it may not raise again... Does this sound like the typical window regulator failure? My warranty coverage "excludes " window regulators, go figure. Their brochure says window motors and regulators covered. The actual signed contract excludes regulators? 2004 V8......
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VW Phaeton, 2004 W12, 104000 Miles, Park in garage, heard loud pop and air escaping front passenger side, I think it is the air shock or suspension.
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I am running into issues with my 3GS recently I am hearing loud ticking noise coming from the left side on the front of my car and from what most of people have told me is it might be my Axle or my wheel bearing so was wondering what the part number was for both of them and what is the best place to order these two parts from.
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My car begins to shake violently and hum loudly at anything over 70mph. It used to be 80mph but it has slowly gotten worse. I have checked the motor mounts and none appear to be cracked or broken. I have also had tires balanced and replaced, rims replaced, and the problem continues to persist. I was curious if the right axle could be warped? or this issue may be caused by damage wheel bearings. At any rate it has gotten unbearable decided to finally extinguish the problem.
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I just got the car back from repairs, there was a loud grinding noise coming from the left side of the engine. It turned out the whole rack and pinion setup was pouring out fluids and needed to be completely replaced also while it was in there they checked out an oil leak which ended up being the front valve cover and replaced a dead O2 sensor. The car has 99,300 miles
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I was pulling out of the driveway and heard really loud snapping noise. Jumped out of the car expecting to see damage, but everything looked fine. I didn't drive over anything or hit anything.
Now, I notice that when my left front wheel goes over bumps and potholes there's this metallic rattle. Took it my mechanic right after and we both looked the front suspension over. Everything looks good. It does drive fine.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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I have had my car for a week and use the trunk every day. Tonight the trunk wouldn't open. Brought it to service and they were just closing, but technician looked quickly and didn't know problem and told me to come back tomorrow. I called Blue Link and they didn't have a clue either. I tried the remote, the trunk release in the car and the release under the trunk itself. I hear a click but it won't open. I even tried the second remote.
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One of my unlock buttons was very touchy and no longer had the click detent so I sourced exact replacements. I bought 3 but only need 1 so have two to spare. Since these are not the typical VW remote switches they were harder to find and I ordered them from Germany. Replacing them isn't too hard but they are surface mount so a little trickier than normal PC card work. Still, any electronic repair shop can handle it for you if you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron.
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I went out last night (fire training) and when I returned to my car, I unlocked it with the fob button, got in and put the key in the ignition and no click.... the key will not turn. This is the same key I drove out with. I thought if my kessey is bad, both of my keys are "locked out" My wife came out with my second key fob and the car started with no issues. My main key still won't turn in the ignition. So how do I get my car to like my main key again?
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I have one problem, my trunk does not close, I close but it is not closed, the system does not close and the door is open.
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Just got back from the store and the trunk will not close. Goes about 2/3 the way and stops. On inspection it seems the cable enclosure from the body to the trunk lid is not retracting(?) properly and causing the pinch protection to kick in as the cable appears to be very rigid.
Two questions: Could this be due to cold weather (less than 20F)?
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