Phaeton :: Loud Bang Or Clunk Underneath The Pedal
Apr 4, 2015
2005 V8 Phaeton,82,000 miles.
If I ease on the brakes ,no problem but if I hit the pedal there is a loud bang or clunk from underneath,sometimes front and sometimes in the back. It's as if the wheels stopped but the chassis went forward and back slightly. As long as I put the brakes on gradually there is no problem stopping.
When I come off the Interstate and leave the off ramp, the low side of the front end sounds as if there is no shock absorber ,doesn't matter which side is low,they both do it on the low side.
Intermittent problems.
Steering wheel turns and grinding,groaning noises from under the hood, not all the time.
Going over a speed bump in a parking lot causes the same noise I get exiting the Interstate.
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38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
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My phaeton's gearbox has progressively gotten worse.. When gearing down after accelerating I am regularly getting a very loud and aggressive bang rather than a smooth gear change, I believe the torque converter is on its way out or the transmission fluid is low.
What transmission fluid I should have in the Phaeton is it the 75w90? I want to try and top up the transmission fluid rather than getting the gearbox serviced as the waiting list in Dortsmund is too long and there is nobody nearby that I am aware of.
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I was driving, Iput the brakes on then suddenly I heard a loud bang and brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I knew there was something wrong with the brakes, parked went and checked the passenger side rear brake caliper was ripped off which made a hole through my rim and also ripped off the brake lines. I need to get the part but I don't know what its called. See the pictures....
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When I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
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My R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
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When I put my car (04 s60 2.5t) in reverse it hesitate, then when I press the pedal it roll back with a loud clunk noise. But if I put the car in drive before putting it in reverse everything goes smoothly.
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So have an '04 F150, 5.4l truck in the shop that has a nice clunk or bang when you tip into the throttle and the TC unlocks. Smooth as glass when you back out of it and the TCC locks back up, no shudder on lockup, nothing. No codes in the PCM, no nothing. Drives well, fuel trims are good. Truck has about 178k on it. Acts like it has an idle misfire, but you don't see it anywhere in the fuel trims or misfire data or anything else. Should I just put a converter in it? Or maybe reprogram the PCM first?
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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL 1500 4 WD. Ive been getting a loud bang ( like a hammer strike on the front frame) on occasion only after backing up and it happens after the truck moves forward a bit. You can almost feel the truck loading up and then it gives with a loud hammer like bang. Ive had a tech check the front end and do an alignment. I had thought it might be a brake hanging up.
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I have a 2002 bettle with about 150k on it. was running fine and one day while the wife was driving it she heard a loud pop/bang and it started missing and has low power. Starts fine just dosent have much power and is missing on one cylinder.
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Was driving down the highway when I heard a loud explosion.
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2001 Ford F-150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4
I was driving last winter when something bad happened. I was on the highway in 4H doing about 45mph (Really bad weather). Suddenly there was a loud bang, like a shotgun going off. The truck continued to run but it sounded like someone was beating my driveshaft with a metal pipe. There is no apparent damage but it grinds and bangs when it drives. The engine runs just fine. I limped it back home with the noises being constant only when its moving.
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Ive got a 2013 Accent with 16,000km on it. It has an automatic transmission. The noise is when i pass from R to D, or P to D. It is an intermittent noise, so it does not do it all the time. But when it does, it makes a loud "bang" that can be easily heard and felt in the floor. Ive had it checked by the dealer, but it never does it when its in the shop.
I always let the idle go down before shifting into gear and even if i hold the brake hard to change gears it does it anyway. It doesnt matter if the trans is cold or hot. And no, i never change gears when the car is still rolling, always when i have stopped completely.
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I was driving down the highway when I had this loud bang and twang, after inspecting the car I realized it was the left rear seat belt that was broken. The seat belt fails to retract and cannot be pulled. I'm guessing the retractor is the fault.
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My 2006 V6 has about 115k miles. I pulled up and parked the other day and with the car still running, heard a loud "bang" under the right passenger side, and then the compressor wouldn't stop, even with the keys out of the ignition...it was still running an hour later when the flatbed took her away to the dealer.
The car was rear-ended 4 years ago and the back hatch/glass, which operates from the air suspension system, hasn't been able to hold itself up in several years. So there probably really is a real problem with the air system.
Here are questions initial questions I have.
1. From what I've read, it is common that a leak elsewhere in the system caused the compressor to eventually fail. The dealer is telling me that the compressor "blew apart inside" and that it needs to be replaced. Is this reasonable given that the compressor was still audibly operating an hour later?
2. The dealer is telling me that they cannot troubleshoot the rest of the air suspension system without me buying the compressor first. Is this a reasonable approach and level of competence? The service went on to say "We don't see many of these." Should I be worry? I am also concerned that I've read stories about dealer service departments who didn't know/didn't offer up that components of the suspension system can be replaced without the whole, very expensive unit.
3. The SUV was in the dealer 3 days prior for a new drive shaft and some electrical repair in the headlight which included the fuses blowing several times. Could there be any connection or does this sound like coincidence? Any thing I should ask them to protect my interests.
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Just a hour ago, driving along about 45, then I hear a loud bang and my truck quits. I get off the road and it won't even turn over. I had a friend tow it back to the barracks and put a socket and breaker bar on the crank and can't move it. All the fluids are fine. Possible seized up? The thing was running great as always then boom. Nothing! It's a 06' F150, 5.4, 97K on it.
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I pulled the EX into the driveway today and as soon I put it in park as I was turning it off there was a loud pop / bang noise somewhere in the front. My husband was already taking it to get new tires so I told him about it and he left to go get the new tires. He said he right away noticed it pulling real bad to the right (I did not notice this and I am VERY in tune with my truck). When he got to the tire place they brought out a big bolt they found in one of the front tires. He said it drove fine all the way home after he got the tires put on. I get in it to run an errand after he brings it back and immediately notice it rides lower. We had the exact same tires put on it that we always do. I also notice a rattle noise and feeling under my left foot that is sitting on the floor as I am driving. I wonder if I broke a shock or something but he looked and says he can't see anything broken. I have a 9 hour trip to go on with my children soon so needless to say I am a little concerned.
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While driving on a flat road last night my prius felt like it hit something - the car looks fine and no warning lights came. It felt like I hit a massive pothole and then nothing.
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Lately almost every morning my brakes have been seized. After releasing the parking brake the car won't budge without a bit of gas and a loud BANG from all four wheels as they become unstuck. And I don't mean a small bang, it sounds like someone whacked the wheel with a sledgehammer. It has been cold, snowy, icy, wet, and very salty here lately, but the car is parked in an underground garage overnight where the temperature is above freezing.
After becoming unstuck the brakes are noisy and very rough. They'll also re-seize at each stoplight, but with just a small bang. This slowly gets better as I use them, until the next time. Is this normal?
I can't imagine it's good for the health of the brakes for this to be happening. I've heard of this happening if a car is left sitting in wet conditions for a couple weeks, but only after 12 hours, and again at each light? I also had the dealer take apart and clean the brakes about 4 months ago.
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2002 Excursion 4x4. While applying my emergency brake today I heard a loud bang. Now, the parking brake won't come up when I pull the parking brake release. Also, the noise is driving me crazy. Is there a way to release the pedal until I can get the cable replaced?
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My vehicle had a shudder which felt like driving over a rumble strip. It would usually occur after hitting a small bump at around 35 mph and hearing a clunk underneath. The shudder lasted just a few seconds. Checked the whole steering, suspension, chassis, drivetrain, u-joints, rear e-brake shoes etc. Finally found that the RF axle shaft could be moved up and down excessively in the steering knuckle. Removed axle shaft, R&R u-joint, vacuum hub seal and the torrington bearing in the hub. (used to call it a spindle bearing) ...
There was a little bit of wear into the stub shaft where the spindle bearing rides. That removed the play from the axle when it was all re-assembled. I was very happy until about a month later when it started doing it again, but not as bad as it was originally. I think maybe the stub end of the axle shaft needs to be replaced due to the wear in it. I don't want to just throw a somewhat expensive part at it without some info about "superduty shudder".
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