Phaeton :: Lost Door Open And All Other Warning Chimes


Jul 21, 2011

I lost the entire warning chime array for:

1. lights on when door is open..
2. low fuel..
3. TPMS..
4. Direction blinker (lights still work, but no "ticking" sound)..
5. Emergency blinker (same)..
6. Any warning chime that is associated with a yellow warning message..

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I purchased a used Phaeton, but...it has some issues that I've started to sort out beginning with reading this forum most of my waking hours the last two days.

Here are my issues:

1) Transmission - jerks quickly from 1st, barely spends a moment in 2nd, before shifting into third. Jerks hard and lunges through this process all in about 2 or 3 seconds. Smooth as silk from 3 to 6th gear.

2) No-key-in-ignition or blinker chimes (therefore don't know what else I may not be hearing).

3) No owners manual so I haven't figured out how to adjust rear view mirror or seat belt height.

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My Phaeton has been in the shop for about a week because the trunk will not open with the switch on the door. The key will open it, but no the door switch. They said it was hard to fix because there is no wire running from the switch to the trunk. Is it just another one of the many "secrets" of the Phaeton.

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Learning how to operate my newly acquired 2004 V8 Phaeton...not too mention convincing me to purchase one. I think I even like its occassional quirkiness, such as TPMS faults - its like it has a personality.

Anyway, I have not found an answer to a problem which started yesterday:

- Rear driver-side door won't operate using outside handle
- Confirmed its unlocked, can open from inside & child locks (not that those should affect it) are off
- No problem opening passenger side rear door
- I think I hear a mechanism in the door moving when I pull the outside handle on the working side, don't hear it on the non-working door

I believe there is a cable which is attached to the door handle which may have come loose. I do have a VW Real Driver Warranty (10 Years)...and although door handles are specifically excluded, I don't think this is likely a "door handle" problem, but rather something inside the door which has broken.

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Get in you car, start it up, Put car in reverse and open you door...

That annoying chime is what I am trying to disable.

I already disabled the chime for when the car is running and I open the door but I cant figure out how to do it for when the car is in gear other than park.

I have a DSG trans BTW...

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If I unlock the car with the fob - two clicks - all doors unlock. However the rear drivers side passenger door always needs two pulls on the handle to open it. Both passenger side doors open from the outside on first pull, as does the drivers door, but the back door on the passenger side needs two pulls.

As far as I can tell all doors behave the same inside - one pull to open, unless the car is centrally locked, in which case two pulls.

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Everytime I open the door to get out of my 08 LS460 the warning bell rings incessantly.

The only thing I can think of is that I'm usually in a parking garage and the lights are on due to the auto-feature on the lights. But, I think sometimes it rings even though the lights aren't on.

Sometimes you open the door but don't jump right out of the car. Is there anyway to disable this ringing bell?

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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!

Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.

About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.

After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.

I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).

I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.

I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!

I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.

I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).

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Our 2103 GS most times when you exit of the chimes going off until you close the door.

Everything is off, why it does this. I asked the dealer a while back but they gave me the "No problem found".

Again nothing is left on and it doesn't matter whether the automatic headlights are on of off.

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Everything else on the vehicle works perfect, its just this one door as if all the power is off or disconnected.(ACC or ON power it functions fine) I have checked the fuses under the driver side and the ones in the trunk, they are all fine and we took the front driver door apart to make sure any connections were good. everything seems secure, we even looked over the ECU in the door to make sure it didn't seem fried or anything, all functions on front and passenger doors are perfect.

Here are the symptoms: passenger rear door light wont come on with the door open unless the ACC is on. the other 3 turn on, with or without ACC.

The door lock actuator from the outside on this door wont lock the doors or with the sensing when you approach with the fob and grab the handle (as in the lights there wont light up).

The door closer that finishes off the door being slightly open wont grab and pull it in.

The trunk lights wont come on and there is no fuse or connection issue we can see. Its puzzling.

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