Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
View 4 RepliesI opened the boot via the door panel button. Loaded suitcases in and pressed button down on the boot lid.
The two hooks ( plastic and metal one ) directly came out and the boot lid did not move at all.
Tried a reset the whole procedure found on this excellent forum. but no result. I also tried to put my key in the boot lock and it doesnt want to lock or unlock.
o5 P with a bad brake light switch (going in next week) ran the left battery flat. Charged it back up and car runs fine but electric trunk is now non-op. Button on emblem will make a click and flash taillights but no action. Same with fob. Same with button on trunk and button in door. Valet switch is off. I tried the reset with manual trunk open, fob, button but no joy. I believe I read there's a trunk reset in VagCom. Latch and manual key work fine. Did I blow a fuse to the latch?
View 3 RepliesAfter checking out most of the many threads about battery maintenance etc. I couldn't find anyone mentioning how to keep the trunk closed and still hook up battery maintainer....would also be interested in specific model of small safe maintainer. Maybe removing the Ski bag and running out through one of the back windows ????? I don't drive the V8 Nar but about once a week for short trips in winter especially.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 trunk controls are not working? the key nor the door, or the switch on the lid will open or close the trunk? there is no sound either when activating any switch or button! Wondering if there is a fuse or connector that might be the cause?
View 4 RepliesI've got keyless entry on my phaeton 2008. Came up with a warning saying "change key battery" a few months ago. So I changed the key battery with a new one I had lying around. the warning stayed.
I thought it might be an old battery so I bought another brand new one and still the same warning. Thought I'd wait it out thinking it will soon disappear with a new fob battery but it hasn't and is starting to annoy me now.
Other than the warning, the fob works fine, has a good range, and keyless entry works fine. Its just the annoying beep and warning message left.
Trunk release switch on drivers door does not open trunk. Remote and key will open trunk. Sounds like a motor is trying to close the trunk when it is being closed, but does not pull it shut ?
1. I did pull on the switch
2. Gas door switch works fine
3. It is a standard trunk (not powered)
The trunk lock switch on the d/s inner door panel has stopped working. Also both remotes won"t open the trunk as well. Everything else seems to be OK.
View 10 RepliesI do have the power trunk. I went to open the trunk but instead of opening it just sort of popped up as if it weren't a power trunk. Pressing the close button does nothing and the latch is in a position so that I cannot fully close the trunk. I restarted the car a few times, tried different keys, and tried the trunk reset trick I read about in the Table of Contents.
View 6 RepliesBasically, my power trunk (boot lid) refused to work this morning and continues to do so.
The key fob unlocks/locks the doors just fine, but the trunk button doesn't make anything happen at all. No noise or movement......nothing.
The dashboard display is showing the trunk is open, and the locking mech on the lid is fixed in the lock position i.e., it isn't retracted.
What this could be? Wiring springs to mind as the fabric covering on the loom that passes from bodyshell to lid is already frayed so it's definitely seen some use.
I have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
Wiring power from car battery to trunk for amplifier for subwoofer? How to do that easiest way?
View 2 RepliesI am installing a wiring harness in my 2007 Camry SE so that I can tow a small flatbed utility trailer I have to carry my kayak on trips. I have the wiring harness all installed except for I now have to route the power cable for the harness from the trunk to the battery in the front of the car. The instructions give no suggestions on how to get the wire to the battery other than to avoid hot parts and suspension parts.
What would be the best and easiest way to get the wire to the front? I'm not well versed in car mechanics or how to take things apart so I would prefer the easiest, most direct way if there is one.
I have already found a grommet in the trunk with a factory wire harness going through it to the bottom of the car so I can route my wire through there, but after that where to go next. The only thing I can think of is there is several brackets holding the 2 fuel lines and the 2 rear brake lines, there is a open spot between the 2 fuel lines so I could use the empty spot in those brackets to hold the wire for most of the way to the front, do fuel lines get hot at all? Do you think it would be safe to route the wire that way?
As for getting into the engine compartment, how to do that without getting in the way of the front suspension while keeping the wire away from the transmission and axles.
If this is too complicated to do myself, my dad has a friend who is a electrician and likes to restore cars that could do it for me but he is almost always busy, thus hard to get a hold of and I like to try and learn some things about my car and do as much as I can on my own.
This is the trailer light wiring harness I have, there is a link for the instruction manual there too
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Our 2009 LS trunk will not close, seems the power is not working it. Cannot find fuse box for it.
View 1 Replies2006 Sonata GLS. When I lock/unlock door with keyfob, it beeps, but doors or trunks will not open/close. When I put key in ignition and either start or turn to on, I can press keyfob and lock/unlock doors and unlock trunk. Manual trunk release in drivers foot area does nothing unless car is on. Checked all fuses (passenger driver compartment and under hood). What is the exact fuse to focus on, or if this could be some other issue ? BCM ?
View 1 RepliesI just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
After changing the battery on the 2005 Accent, problem now is: no power windows, no radio, no air/heating fan, battery light always stays on. Checked all fuses in box besides driver seat an all OK. Rest of electrical seems ok ( int. and ext. lights, lighter, etc...). I would really really like not to have to bring it to the dealer.
View 4 RepliesAnother thread on here about Time for Batteries got me to thinking about mine and whether I should change them based upon time.
They have been in the truck 4 years and 6 months or so. I was reading some older threads recommending changing around the 3 year mark to prevent damage to the FICM.
I don't drive the truck everyday and sometimes it sits for 3 weeks or so. I noticed 2 days ago when I took it to work, I got one of the slowest cranks I've ever gotten. But after it's started and the glow plugs turn off, I get ~ 14.1 - 13.4 or so volts.
FICM voltage never drops below 47 and usually runs between 47.5 and 48.5 volts.
I'm not sure what size alternator is on there. Plus it's a single. I also have the upgraded cables that Mr. Jack recommended for extra battery life. I guess it's time for batteries though?
I have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
I was driving (about 800 km), when suddenly I realised that some strange smell is going out from my car's boot. When I checked, I found out that Vehicle Power Supply Battery was hot, making some strange noise (like hissing), plus I saw that the battery exterior wall (towards to the trunk) was waved like it was overheated. But because all these stuff happened in the middle of my way, I could do nothing, so I continued my driving.
After 300 km I felt huge impact, I realized that I lost my 6th and 5th gears, after some time I realized that I lost 4th gear. That I stoped just in case not to break something. When I tried to start the engine, It didn't started, so I understand that all problems was besause Vehicle Power Supply Battery was drained.
As I mentioned before, all these stuff was in the middle of highway, therefore I took the wires (crocodile), connected Starter battery with Vehicle Power Supply Battery and managed to start the car's engine and get to the City of Prague. I took out the Vehicle Power Supply Battery, opened battery cells and found out that all of them were dry, no acid at all.
My question is - could it be that the Vehicle Power Supply Battery was overcharged (overheated) because of some mistake of battery charge controller and all acid just go away in some way?
The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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