Phaeton :: Key Fob No Longer Lock / Unlock The Car
Feb 1, 2011
I took apart my key fob to replace the plastic pad. With the new pad in place all the functions light up the little green led but it won't lock, unlock the car or open the trunk. The door lock cylinder was seized when I bought the car. So now I have a locked Phaeton in my driveway that I can't get into. I don't have a scan tool (I would need to be in the car to use it anyway) and the nearest dealer is 260 miles away .
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When I lock or unlock my Prius C with the handle or the key, it used to beep, now it no longer will beep, I've checked the doors and hood to make sure they are all shut and it will still not beep.
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On Friday, all of a sudden I found that I could not use the keyless feature to lock/unlock my car anymore, and when I tried to start the car with the push button, it showed "key not found" "immobilizer activated". By that time, i still could use the remote key to lock and unlock the car, and start up the car with the key blade. After I drove and parked the car, I went to get a new battery for my key because I thought my battery was giving me the trouble. Then I went back to the car, I was still able to lock and unlock the car with the remote buttons, but I cannot start up the car, even with the key blade. So I disconnected both battery, waited and reconnected them, the car is able to start with the key blade, but can no longer lock and unlock with the remote buttons. So I can only lock the car manually now.
Later, I scanned the car, found there are 2 faults. One is an old fault, which is "the antenna in rear bumper has no signal intermittently", and the new fault is "luggage compartment start/access authorization antenna upper limit exceeded", and gave me a time that this occurred, which is exactly when I first found the keyless entry didn't work on Friday.
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I have a 2005 W12 with keyless entry etc. ..etc. I cannot lock /unlock the doors or open the trunk by pressing the regular buttons. I have replaced the battery in my key some months ago. The key that my wife has the same problem...
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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My Chevy Venture 1998 power lock doors will unlock but won't lock. Checked fuse and is ok.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I've looked around here and in my manual but can't find the procedure to turn off the "beeps" when I lock and unlock my car via the key.
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I have a 2010 Prius with about 51,000 miles on it. About a month ago the front passenger lock actuator began failing and wouldn't lock/unlock with the remote. I had to manually slide the lock shut before I exited the car or it would keep beeping when I pressed the lock button on the remote.
Well, now the driver's side door is doing the same thing. When I touch the front door handle (to unlock the doors) it beeps like 8 times while it tries to unlock all four doors. I have to open the back drivers-side door and manually unlock the front door so I can drive the car.
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My passenger rear lock is no longer lock/unlocking via power. I had an issue with the driver front, but it was replaced under warranty. Since it's a 2007, it's certainly no longer under warranty.
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My trunk no longer unlock when I press on my remote, on the button inside the car or the button on the trunk. I have to open it with the key. My doors still works fine. What the problem could be?
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I believe my GX470, 03 model, use to unlock the drivers door automatically when I removed the key from the ignition. Now that the battery has been replaced the doors no longer unlock when removing the key. Is there a way to reprogram this?
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it used to be that whenever I cut my car off the headlights would come on and as I exit the car would remain on for 30secs per. The setting for departure/arrival lighting.
Last night I they suddenly stopped doing that. When approaching the car and unlocking with key fob the lights come on. But no longer do they stay on when exiting the vehicle which was a nice feature at night. I have confirmed my settings are in tact so maybe I bumped something I don't know. I spent a lot of time In my phay last nite waiting for people and parked and moved several times.
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One of my unlock buttons was very touchy and no longer had the click detent so I sourced exact replacements. I bought 3 but only need 1 so have two to spare. Since these are not the typical VW remote switches they were harder to find and I ordered them from Germany. Replacing them isn't too hard but they are surface mount so a little trickier than normal PC card work. Still, any electronic repair shop can handle it for you if you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron.
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So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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My W12 Steering wheel seems to no longer adjust in the up/down range when I use the button on the side of the steering column. It does move in/out. Is there a way to reinitialize or calibrate the steering wheel.
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I have a 2013 RX. This problem just started today. Have I accidentally changed some setting or do I need to take the car to the dealer for repair?
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I would like to add lock unlock beep to my prius and finding the control wires for open and close? In addition the method (positive , negative trigger).
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I've searched but can't find. How can I do the one touch lock and unlock when key out with the vag-com. And will the windows work on the b5.5?
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