Phaeton :: Is It Necessary To Change Wheel Alignment When Changing To 19 Inch Rim
Jun 6, 2010
I would like to upgrade my rims, from originally 18 inch Champion to the Omanyt, but I once heard that it is necessary to change the wheel alignment (german: spur and sturz) if you want to use the 19 inch VW Omanyt (ET40 255/40 R19) rims on Phaetons that were shipped with 18 inch wheels. Is this correct?
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I'm interested in changing my wife's 18 inch wheels on her luxury edition Gs 350 to 20 inch wheels. what comfort level from the 18 ' s to the 20's I would loose. I know there will be a comfort lost , but is it major..
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As the weather has been getting warmer lately, I'm about to change over to my summer wheels and tires. First, I'm just wondering when most people who use winter tires on this forum make the change.
On my previous cars, I've just changed over in the fall and spring by myself unless I needed a wheel balance or alignment. With the harsh winter and roads we've had this year, I'm thinking maybe I've hit too many potholes, since I'm noticing a vibration at 140kph (87mph). I got the current OEM rims and winter tires new last October and had them balanced before installing them on the car and I hadn't noticed anything until about 2 weeks ago. The issue did not suddenly show up after hitting a pot hole, but just started happening and becoming a bit more noticeable recently. The weird part is that it seems to be happening only at that specific speed when accelerating, which makes me wonder if its the wheels out of balance or engine/turbo vibrating under load. As you can imagine, if you let off the acceleration at high speeds, the car slows down slowly and the vibration goes away. So it's hard for me to say what the problem is.
When I switch over to the summer wheels and tires, I'm thinking of just changing them myself to see if the same vibration still occurs at the same speed and then deciding on whether to get them balanced or not.
A related issue, which I think some others have posted about on this site has been the wheel alignment. In the last 3 or 4 months, I've noticed that the car has a slight pull to the left under no steering input, so I may have to do an alignment soon.
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My 2000 ford Taurus which has 120,543 miles needs an outer tie rod end. I went to sts for an oil change and asked them about an alignment after I did the tie rod and they told me I need to change my struts. If I only change the front struts could I get an alignment or am I going to need to change the rear also? Also, i know I have to get new tires in the front because they are getting bad from the alignment being off so I would have to get tires also.
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I had my tires rotated about 2,500 miles ago with tire balancing and wheel alignment done. After this the car developed strong vibrations at between 55 and 65 mph. When the speed goes up or down from that range the shaking stops. If I am going at a speed higher than 65 mph and brake the car shudders until the speed is below the 55 to 65 range.
I had the VW dealer do another tire balance, but the problem persisted. I then went to a Goodyear tire outlet and had them do a tire balance and then another one about two weeks later. The problem is still there. The Goodyear people suggested running the car for a while and see if it improves. It has not about 2,000 miles later
The VW tech rode with me and said that it was warped rotors that caused the vibration, but if the rotors are warped, should this vibration also be felt for other speeds?
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
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I took my 2009 Santa Fe Limited in to Firesteone last Friday. After the oil change and alignment, I drove out without any issues. Current mileage is 61k+.
I was running some other errands and drove about 20 miles to the next destination and parked. Came back within 45 mins and started the car when 2 lights came up on the dash - malfunction indicator lamp and engine oil pressure warning light.
I called the Firestone service center who suggested another location closer to my current position. The guy at the other location checked the error codes with the scanner which came up with P0021 and P0022.
Now, I am not very handy with anything car related and my vehicle is just out of factory warranty by 3 months and 1200 miles. I am concerned that these error codes point to expensive repairs.
Are these issues common in my model? The car seems to run fine. Could this only be the sensors or oil valves?
Assuming the worst case scenario, how long should I be able to drive before immediate need for repairs or without making the issue worse?
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I have a 2005 F-150 4x2 with 4.2L mojo. If I change the struts, is an alignment required due to slight changes in the top mount location? I plan on having it aligned but timing wise I may not be able to get it all done at the same time.
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I have driven two Lexus IS 250's with the standard 17" wheels. I am considering trading up to the 2014 model, which appears to often come with 18" wheels on the AWD model (which is what I am looking for).
What differences can I expect on the 18" wheels vs. what the 17" gives now?
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2003 Jetta. She has worn out front 225/45-17's on right now. From what I can tell, these would still work but I want to make sure on here. Not really worried about a slight speedometer speed change or slightly more sidewall compared to rear, just don't want any rubbing issues.
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Coming from an mk4 jetta with solid rear beam i know how the one side can be out a bit from the other. that being said the mk6's rear eand shouldn't be doing that at all right???
Because on my 2010 golf the right rear wheel sticks out more about 1/4" or so than the left. im on air and just got a full alignment done last week with my rear camber set @ -3 degrees on ride height. coz now im rubbing ever so little on bumps on the right rear that is why i noticed. i guess my question....is it normal for mk6's to have this too? if not...what coud be the cause of this?
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I have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
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I bought a wall mounted tire rack and its maximum weight capacity is 300 lbs.I need to know how much a stock 15" wheel weight including the tire. I don't have a scale.This is for a 2012 Corolla.
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I have a 4 inch lift on my truck and currently have 20x10 with 35x12.5 but I want to run a 20x12 with a 35x14.5 or maybe just a wider tire on my 10 inch wheels but idk how much bigger I can get on a 10 inch wheel
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Lexus: GX 470 2003
I went to go get a wheel alignment (when driving my car starts drifting to the left hard/ also when my hands aren't on wheel) and they discovered that my front left tie rod is wobbly (also said lower ball joint is suspect). I was told they couldn't perform a complete wheel alignment until fixing the front left tie rod first.
Overall to fix/part/wheel alignment, the quote is
Labor: 223.97
Parts: 71.13 (I seen online for about 50 dollars cheaper??)
ENVIRO/DISPO: 23.61
Sales Tax: 5.68
Total: 324.39 (After 40.00 coupon)
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2nd time for alignment in two weeks. My numbers were WAY different than when I left. Rear toe is out, it was out when I left the first time, but it's out in the opposite direction now. Are those four bolts stretch bolts? Maybe my bushings are shot which are causing the varied numbers??
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When I took my 4WD Highlander Hybrid in for an alignment, they said there was a problem that kept them from aligning one wheel. Assuming they did the other 3, can the one remaining wheel be aligned when the wheel is fixed? Or do they all have to be redone?
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Met with my dealer today to discuss my alignment problems and take a test drive. My car drifts seriously to the right when I take my hand off the wheel. I basically have to countersteer the car down the road.
I took a test drive with their alignment tech, a really nice guy who seems to know his stuff, and he concluded it's a 'drift' not a 'pull' and that the car is within spec now. The only thing they can do is move it slightly more left or do a 'custom alignment', which means they would align it left outside of spec to offset the drift. However, if they do this, they don't warrant tire wear, etc. While I'm never in favor of a band aid fix like this, I'm inclined to try it before I give up and sell the truck. I think it's something more than just the alignment.
Needed to do this, i.e., align the car out of spec slightly left to get it to track straight? Based on his markings, I can see where I am in spec, but I also know what the car's doing and it's pulling right. I'm not imagining it and I've never had this problem with another vehicle. I showed him over and over how it drifts hard right and said this is not normal, but they go back to the spec sheet. As an aside, they told me they have done 50 Treg alignments so far. 50! On a two year old model. That's ridiculous.
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After installing drive gear springs i had a wheel alignment done. Since then the steering wheel is not level even thought the car goes straight it is slightly off. i brought it back 3 times and every time they did the alignment the steering wheel is off either the left of the right. i made an appointment to have it done at the dealer but cant figure out why they cant get it right.
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And I have coil overs, I'm not super low but pretty low and every time I get my alignment done they say they can't so anything about the rear having so much negative camber. And it is really eating up the inside sidewalls of my tires like crazy.
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I took my Passat to a VW dealer this weekend for an alignment. I could tell the car was pulling slightly to the right. Later that day, I received a call from the dealer that sub-frame needed to be replaced because they could not align the car. I asked if the sub-frame or any other component was bent because I don't recall hitting anything hitting anything could cause this kind of damage.
The dealer said that there was nothing bent but he could not align the car and I need to replace the sub-frame. I told him I just wanted to pick up the car and take it to another shop. I then received a call half hour later that the front right wheel was pushed back further than the left one and they will try to adjust it. I am not sure what is normally involved in VW alignment but I believe that I am getting poor advice from this dealer. Likewise, I am not sure if some inexperience weekend mechanic who did not know a lot of alignments and just wanted to throw parts at the car?
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