What would be considered normal variation in idle speed? VCDs shows my Phaeton idle speed jumping between 680 rpm and 720 rpm fairly rapidly. I feel like the car is hunting too much at idle causing excessive vibration. There are no codes from the engine or transmission. Am I looking for a problem that isn't there?
View 6 RepliesLast 2 weeks my 2006 HV battery seems to be showing the SOC very erratically. Going up and down fairly rapidly, sometimes staying at 4 bars for a good 20 minute drive on the highway. This weekend after driving 7 hours in 110 degree heat, the battery fan came on. It was blowing on high for about 15 minutes and then it quieted down.
I believe these are signs of it's potential upcoming failure. The car has only 127k miles so I'm still in warranty. So fingers crossed that I'll be close to home when I see all the warning lights pop up.
Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
View 21 RepliesIn the video below driver presses the brake and taillights begin to blink rapidly. Modified with Vag-com or something else ? [URL] .....
View 11 RepliesSo i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
View 4 RepliesSo I'm having some fun issues with my S10 Blazer right now.
1992 S10 Blazer 4x4 4.3L TBI, 4-speed auto (not electronic)
ABS Codes- 41, 42, 46, 51, 52, 65, 67, 68
The speedometer is jumping around sporadically.
Gas mileage has dropped astoundingly. Tank has gotten me 80 miles!!!! Poorest MPG ever!!
Also, may be related, the tranny has shifted properly for awhile. Slips from 4th to 3rd when letting off the gas at highway speed, and won't detente shift 4th to 3rd even with the gas completely floored. I had the tranny rebuilt in November and had the detente cable replaced a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to make sure it was adjusted correctly today by using the shop manual method: shift the cable back and ratchet forward with throttle or gas pedal.
As far as the ABS and speedometer go, I'm going to test what I can with the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and the DRAC module today. With my WinALDL scan tool, I found it is definitely not a speedometer issue because the speed coming from the computer is fluctuating as well.
There is a test in the shop manual to do, but are there any other tests for the VSS or DRAC module? Reason here is because I replaced the VSS after the tranny rebuild in November. So either the DRAC module is acting up or something in the transfer case is screwed.
My 93 with 210K miles threw a new one at me the other day. Not 1 mile from work with AC running, it started stumbling a bit at around 40MPH. I just assumed it was the AC cycling and the Van was in OD. Dropped into D and drove her on home.
Well this morning was round 2.... got about 2 miles from home and it started stumbling again (no AC this time). Just happened to look down at my digital dash and the speed was jumping all over, finally settling on 0 MPH. I got about a mile down the interstate and it suddenly reactivated and displayed 70mph.... smooth as silk.
OK, so I know that the rear diff. has a sensor for ABS, and obviously a pulse wheel on the diff. Is this sensor the input for speed? From other makes, I understand the pulse train input is "conditioned" in another device ( hardware) which then outputs to the dash display.
Based on these assumptions, I'm going to assume the crazy speed variation was playing hell with the ECU. When it settled on 0 mph it was happy again. Can't just be a display issue as there would have been no stumble. Getting ready to drive her about 3.5 hours this weekend to go trout fishing.... obviously the cruise won't work but otherwise it appears to function WITHOUT the speed input.
I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
View 19 Replies2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
View 2 RepliesI have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape, and since the colder weather set in it is tacking below 1 and 'jumping' when idle. When accelerating and/or once the heat gauge has reach midway, the car is fine. I added a bottle of gas additive to the tank 3 weeks back, but the problem persists. The engine light is on but no code is registering.
View 2 RepliesMy wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
I had the transmission replaced last fall under warranty. the VW rebuilt unit was 09L 300 035 PX. When unit was replaced the dealer used G 060 162 A2 as the fluid. Was that the right oil? Shouldn't they have used the upgraded G 055162 A2 and the new reflash? The shudder has started to return and I am off of warranty.
View 15 RepliesWhen I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
When I choose the screen on my instrument cluster that is suppose to show speed I do not get a reading. It shows 0 mph. The average speed shows correctly, but nothing else. The correct readings are displayed on the center console unit including speed and average speed so I think the sensors are good. Is this something that can be corrected using VAGcom.
View 4 RepliesIve had my new Phaeton just over three weeks and have ha to take it back to the dealer with a slight wheel wobble at high speed, I gather the geometry on these is quite complex and the alignment is usually done on all four wheels. Interestingly however the dealer diagnosis is for four new tyres, obviously this is under warranty, but it seems strange to have to fit four new tyres on a brand new car!
View 6 RepliesV10... Suspect it's the power steering pump...
Seems to come from left of centre of engine. Not taken any covers off yet to see what can be seen..
Scans clear. It's arguably too loud even to drive! So needs some attention very soon.
I'm having issues filling up my gas tank; I can't pump gas at full speed, not even at the slower setting that you can set the pump to. It just clicks off like it's full. When I pull the gas pump out i can see some gas has collected and it takes time to drain down the pipe. In order to fill the tank I have to hold the pump so it pumps slowly. It seems to be worse during hot weather; and the severity of it varies.
View 24 RepliesEver since the day I bought the car, it has had a highway speed pulsing vibration. This vibration manifests once you cross about 90kph, and pulses like a sine wave.
Think of it like this - OOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOO - where big O's are vibration and little o's are absence of vibration.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced several times on various machines over the years in attempts to rid myself of it. The original owner had theorized that the car was so heavy and had sat on its aftermarket rims in one spot for so long that the wheels had bent, which does not appear to be the case. The dealer has experienced the symptoms but cannot find a cause...though I fear they are less knowledgeable about the car than I am. I note that several people on the forum have had vibration issues due to drive shaft bushing failures...but in skimming the relevant threads, none of those people characterized it as a pulsation OR a constant issue that I saw.
I wouldn't say the pulsing was fast...think 4-5 seconds of vibration and then 4-5 seconds of peace.