Phaeton :: Hum That Comes And Goes / Noticeable Around 45 Mph
Sep 29, 2012
I am about to acquire a Silver 2004 v8 Phaeton with 83000 mi. There is an issue that the owner is going to fix, but he and his Phaeton mechanic have not yet diagnosed correctly. It is a hum that comes and goes with a periodicity of about once a second (as in "waa waa waa ...") , seems to be coming from the left front. It becomes noticeable around 45 mph and as the speed increases it gets a bit louder and pitch gets higher but the waa waa ... interval does not speed up. Of course it might be speeding up so slowly that seems to be constant but doesn't seem that way.
They have replaced the tires and the LF wheel bearing. I know there are some wheel bearing issues and that is the usual suspect, but wouldn't a wheel bearing make a constant "waaaaa" and not a repeating harmonic "waa waa waa..."?
Also a harmonic resonance, which this seems to be requires 2 inputs, which are not quite at the same frequency. So I had thought about the cv joints, inner vs outer. I had the car on a lift with a mechanic that I have worked with for some time (german car specialist), and the cv boots were in good shape, so it seems unlikely that the cv joint(s) are bad as they usually (to my knowledge, which could be incorrect) do not fail unless the boot gets damaged and lube leaks out and dirt gets in.
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Phaeton 3.0 tdi ... For some time i have been noticing that the car has a slight hesitation when changing gear from 1 to 2 and barely noticeable from 2 to 3, but as the car gets warmer the hesitation becomes shorter, I don't know if it really is a hesitation , it mostly feels at light acceleration before the oil gets to operating temperature and feels like it slips for like a half second before engages second gear , but as the car warms up it gets better , the car has about 230.000 km , since i bought it i put 50.000 km and did not change the transmission fluid and i guess that before me no one changed it, VW says that the atf should not be changed and many people say that it could make it worse, what the problem is and should I change the Transmission fluid ?
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My 08 3.0 tdi is back in the dealer again, 8 months of ownership and it's been off the road 8 weeks in total now. Started with a warbling whining noise from under the car, that is only noticeable under load up hill in 5th, it worse the steeper the hill and more weight in the car, can also be made to do it on the flat whilst towing my boat.
Dealer initially diagnosed a failed bearing in the gearbox and it was replaced under warranty at 59500mls - lucky escape for me. Unfortunately this did not cure the problem and after months of further inspections and enquries the diff was also replaced - to no affect! Much hand wringing unsued from the embarrassed and fed up dealership and they decide to replace the propshaft - still to no affect
I now have a new problem with the air conditioning - the condenser has corroded through under the paint next to one of the mounting lugs, not what you expect on a vehicle of this quality - this is going to be a substantial bill for something that shouldn't have failed on a vehicle that not even reached it's 3rd birthday!
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Vibration in my 2014 Prius v (lowercase for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase) Three. It happens at all speeds but is most noticeable between 68-72 mph. It is felt throughout the car. I am about to go to arbitration with the state (Florida). I had a Lemon Law arbitration hearing with the Toyota sponsored program (NCDS), and the claim was denied. He said he could feel the vibration but it was normal vibration for highway speed. It was quite obvious he knew the Toyota reps too.
Toyota's solution to the issue at the "final fix" attempt was to install new Michelin tires and Road Force them. After getting the car back, I also found they had lowered the PSI in the tires to dampen the vibration but can't prove it. I put the PSI up to what is printed on the door and the vibration came back and got much worse after the tires were rotated.
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I'm bringing the car in for a seat belt recall and I'm having them look/listen for a heavy valve clatter under WOT. I noticed this before and mentioned it to them, but of course they couldn't find anything wrong.
BUt it's a very noticeable clatter in 1st and sometimes second, embarrassing actually. The other morning when my GF started it saw a big blue cloud of smoke and she said it ran really rough. Is there some issue with the right bank or any bank on the engine? THere's no way that this engine should sound like that. I thought maybe it was because I was running 87, but most here said they didn't notice anything, and a "knock" doesn't sound like clatter. I also tried running 91 for a few tanks and nothing changed.
We actually like the car, but the amount of problems has been a little disheartening. I think more that when I go to the dealer I feel like they don't even know how to use a wrench.
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I'm having with the first startup in the morning. The car turns over fine, but when I accelerate there is a noticeable hesitation. This was only occurring for the first 20 seconds, when I accelerate out of my driveway. Now, it has gotten progressively worse. Still not stalling or anything like that, but it has become more pronounced. I have an APR stage 1+ with a Carbonio intake. Others mention they were experiencing a similar situation. I have tried idling before shutting the car off as well as letting the car sit for 30 seconds after I start her up. Im wondering if I disconnect the battery and allow the ECU to reset might work.
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I've been trying to trace a whirring sound since purchasing my 2010 RX350 this summer. I've tried two sets of Michelin tires, Primacy and Latitude HP, which I thought was the source of my sound.
But what are the chances of two sets of tires making the exact same sound
The sound is most noticeable between 30 and 40 mph on smooth roads and is like a "playing card against bicycle spokes' only much softer (if you are old enough to remember that).
Currently I'm thinking gear mesh noise from the front transfer case or maybe there is a sensor for the anti-lock brakes or traction control that reads a toothed 'gear' for measuring tire speeds that may be mis-adjusted.
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I did some Autocross today and it was fun as always, but my launches had some serious issues. I seem to bog down no matter what RPM I launch at. I did not go particularly high, but I launched from 3500 to 4500. When drag racing, I was launching around 5000. I did not think that was correct for launching for autocross, but who knows. I know that the video is not that great, but the boging is very noticeable as the car jerks up and down. It just loses momentum and RPMs drop. BTW, I have a VF Stg II, stock clutch and ESP was off. Even with the issues, my best time was near the top. [URL].................
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2006 SD 5.4 born in WY so the AC was probably used a lot. 126k. The system is charged. The clutch gap was too wide and when I took the ac clutch off, and there was only one spacer in there. I removed the spacer and then my gap was too small. Without the spacer the clutch would come on for 2 seconds then go off for about 20.
At this point I still suspected the spacing, so this time I took the spacer and ground it down with my grinder (verry delicately). I put it back together and the spacing is better. The clutch now cycles on for several seconds longer than before, then turns off. Firmly pressing the clutch with a dowel does nothing at all.
With the gauges on the system, when the clutch is engaged pressure builds to the yellow caution zone (45+psi) then the clutch disengages and the pressure drops. There is no noticeable cooling in any of the above situations. Could my clutch be shot? Could my clutch be bad?
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For Camry owners with a possible diagnosis for a bad front wheel bearing. About a week ago, I started to hear a low pitched hum from the front of the car, noticeable at first between 35 and 40MPH. Above 40 MPH, the sound kind of mixed with road noise, so it was difficult for me to determine if the sound got louder, etc.
This sound was reduced as the car was braking and disappeared completely when stopped at a light or parked in neutral.
I did not notice any change in the noise when turning left or right, but this observation MAY NOT have been accurate since I do not make many turns at 35-40 mph.
Took the car into the dealership and they diagnosed a bad front wheel bearing, which they had to order. Since this is a 2011 Camry with only 11,000 miles on it, it is a warranty repair.
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MY 2002 Passat 4motion is experiencing a strong gas odor, noticeable both inside the cabin and outside of the vehicle. Odor is noticeably stronger with a tank that has just been filled to full. I see that VW had a recall for 4motion Passats manufactured between 4/1997 and 8/2002. Recall notes, a fuel tank ventilation valve (4motion only) that can leak due to fracture.
I was in for the heat shield repair about 8 months ago which is covered under the same recall (campaign number 08V156000 - VWOA recall R5, but don't know if the VW tech did anything to check on the fuel ventilation valve.
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I just had an oil change over the weekend at a dealership in D.C., and now with the car on D, stopped at a light, there is a noticeable rattling coming from the engine bay.
Also, I have some error codes on my computer, but when I mentioned it to the dealer, they said they could only look at it if I paid the diagnostic fee.
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So most noticeable is when i go into reverse. Initially it makes a loud clunking noise until the car begins moving then it stops ( sounds to come from right under the middle of the car, middle/front). Nothing like this in 1st from a slow start. But Another different noise between first and second when accelerating hard.
As I go to shift from first to second there's another louder clunk in between shifts. It almost sounds as if my seat wasn't bolted down tight and was moving. But definitely coming from under the car again, same spot...I just had a 42DD downpipe installed.
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2003 xle v6 auto... 105,000 approx... Seems to be developing a noise, which I hope is not the transaxle. It is a bit like a "whine" or "growling" sound, can't quite place it. Driving around at slower speeds with windows open, cannot really hear anything.
Up at 50 MPH or more it is noticeable and, unfortunately, seems to be getting louder. Does not seem to vary with speed. Don't think it is some weird wind noise.
I did do the poor man's trans flush about 6 months ago (drain pan, fill + 1 quart, disconnect hose, run a quart out, add quart, repeat until clean comes out) and it has been happy. Also did timing belt/idlers/wp a couple months ago. Did not see a way to change the diff. Seem to be a drain, but no fill, so I left it.
My suspects are - wheel bearing(s), cv/axle, transaxle. oh, tires, I guess.
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The other day while putting on some highway miles on a smooth road I experienced some new vibrations. Not good vibrations, unfortunately. She is an 02 Leg Wagon with 115,000 miles. The vibration was low amplitude and relatively high frequency and was most noticeable at 65 mph or above. Although pronounced at the steering column, the vibration seemed to be throughout the car. Struts? Motor mounts? Imagination? I cant handle the truth?
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Just got new tires Friday. Now I have a very noticeable shaking right at 35-40mph. Doesn't do this at any other speeds and test d up to 80mph. Took back to where I got the tires and told them and they rebalanced them and yet it still does it. Could it be a bad tire? What am I missing?
02 F-150 xlt 5.4 4x4 170k miles. Stock rim and tire size.
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Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
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So ever since I got my RC 350 my transmission wind has been particularly noticeable. I got the luxury package btw. Wondering if this is normal or if I should contact the dealer about it.
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It seems to me my Prius 2007 decelerates noticeably when I take my foot off the accelerator. It's noticeable but not even near the level of the engine braking in B mode. The change seems to have happened since my last service but the I won't swear to it, and the dealer says there hasn't been a software change.
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So I pulled the trigger and got my B5 a little brother... found an awesome 07 4mo wagon sport package with all the bells and whistles with low miles and at a great price. I just couldn't resist. So far I'm loving the car and the extra ~50% hp over the old 30V
I did notice some very noticeable clicking noise in the dash area. It seems to be related to the Climatronic moving flaps around to change air distribution. At random times it starts clicking (kind of a relay sound) a few times in a row and then stops or sometimes it continues clicking in different patterns. When I press the off button on the Climatronic controls it stops immediately.
I'm kinda thinking that it's probably the normal way Climatronic works in this model but it I'm not 100% sure (and the 2001 was silent in that regard) so I want to make sure that it's not something abnormal (like a flap sticking and the sounds I hear is the system trying to flip it a few times before giving up).
Is the clicking normal or should I have the dealer take a look at it? I'll probably take it in soon anyway to get an alignment (car doesn't pull to the side & tires look evenly worn but the steering wheel is about 5 degrees (rough guess) to the right when going straight.
Anything else I need to look out for with this car? It has about 35k miles and all services so far have been done (incl. oil changes every 5k). No open recalls besides a "silent" service action related to the battery cable or something like that (according to the dealer where the car had been services - I called them up before I bought it). There was no major repair work done to the car like the dreaded oil pump bolt issue. Would that even be a concern for an 07 (car was built in Feb 07)?
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I recently had the transmission rebuilt on my 2004 Buick Rendezvous. After 150,000 mile and noticeable slipping, it was time. When I got it out of the shop, I noticed that acceleration was sluggish, When you would stomp on it, the engine would start to "bog down" while the RPMs would hit 5000. Took it back into the transmission shop where they checked it out and said transmission is operating fine, but they show an o2 sensor issue. They suggested that it might be this sensor or that it may need a tune up or perhaps just new plugs.I took it into my mechanic and they checked out everything, plugs, fuel filter,and replaced sensor. Afterwards, they said that they get no misfire codes whatsoever, and say the engine runs great. Unfortunately, the acceleration problem did not go away I am stumped. The mechanic says its the transmission; the transmission guys says it's the engine.
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