Phaeton :: How To Keep The Trunk Closed And Still Hook Up Battery Maintainer
Sep 17, 2012
After checking out most of the many threads about battery maintenance etc. I couldn't find anyone mentioning how to keep the trunk closed and still hook up battery maintainer....would also be interested in specific model of small safe maintainer. Maybe removing the Ski bag and running out through one of the back windows ????? I don't drive the V8 Nar but about once a week for short trips in winter especially.
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owner of a 2003' Phaeton V10. I have two issues with the car, the first one is : even if the trunk is closed, it appears to be open on the dashboard. I saw one or 2 cut wires ... The other issue is that i don't understand what does the symbol close to the tyres' one mean.
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A problem with having a 12 volt battery maintainer hooked up to your truck when not being used for a few weeks? In this cold weather the new battery keeps drawing down while not in use and is slow to turn over after 1 1/2 weeks or so? I think the maintainers charge at about 1.5 amps. I wonder if that can keep up with all the parasitic draws: PCM, radio presets & clock, remote door lock system, and factory security system and keep the battery topped off as well?
Also, is there any problem with putting a charge on a battery when the cables are still hooked up to the trucks electrical system with either a maintainer or a full size charger, Example: screwing up the PCM?
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Just bought a CTEK for the SC430 along with the 8ft extension cord. Car doesn't get much use during the snow/ice season.
How you did your install and routed the wiring? I would rather not keep the hood up during charging.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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o5 P with a bad brake light switch (going in next week) ran the left battery flat. Charged it back up and car runs fine but electric trunk is now non-op. Button on emblem will make a click and flash taillights but no action. Same with fob. Same with button on trunk and button in door. Valet switch is off. I tried the reset with manual trunk open, fob, button but no joy. I believe I read there's a trunk reset in VagCom. Latch and manual key work fine. Did I blow a fuse to the latch?
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98 sunfire 2.2L
Basically the only way we can get my car to start is by hooking another battery up to it. Like, we plugged the tractor's battery up to it as we were going to jump it, but we didn't turn the tractor on. Then my car would start. The second we take the jumper cables off my battery it will die though. One time it did hold a charge for a minute or two before shutting off.
Also, my battery light is constantly on, even when hooked up to another battery, like the tractor one. We replaced the alternator today (got a brand new one) thinking that was the problem but still no dice. What else could it be? Could it be my battery that's less than 7-8 months old? It shows 11 volts when we put the meter on it. The new alternator is also showing that it's getting charge.
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My car (Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally 2002) was sitting all winter because I don't have a heater. I couldn't even jump the car to start it and then had my battery tested to confirm it was no good. I went and bought a new battery and tried to hook it up. When I did, the alarm went off and all of the lights went on. Also, it wouldn't turn on. I read before to let it sit for a couple minutes and it should stop. It didn't. After diagnosing it with a few friends we thought it might be cables or the starter, but then one found out the battery was in backwards. Then, we tried to start it again and it was cranking but wouldn't turn over. There is no spark in the plugs.
My question is; could there be a short in the battery or is the solution going to be much more complicated?
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I have a 1997 f150 that as soon as I hook up the battery, the truck tries to start itself, what would cause this?
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Yesterday in the middle of a hot summer day in NY while running errands I drove my car to the post office. I was in there about 15 -20 minutes. After coming out and driving home about 5 minutes I get out of the car click the lock button on my key fob and nothing happened. The doors were locking so I tried the trunk to see if it was open and it was. I then tried to close the trunk and it wouldn't lock closed. The lock wouldn't engage.
I have 79K+ miles so when I get my 80K tune up I guess I'll have them fix that along with the recalls and everything else. But in the meantime I'm riding around with an unsecured trunk. Luckily the trunk is heavy enough so that it doesn't fly open while I'm driving.
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My 14' SE i4 locks when the trunk is left open for about a minute. To make things a little more confusing is that the car does not auto lock if the trunk is closed, I know this because when I get to work I never lock my doors. The first time the car locked with the trunk open I thought I must have accidentally hit the lock button on the key, but I have tested this with the key left in the house.
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When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
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If I transport my bicycle in the trunk of my 2014 ES350 with the lid tied down but not closed the alarm sounds continuously. Can I defeat the door open alarm for the trunk lid?
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I know this is a minor issue as problems go, but i put coins in my ash trays and just as i placed some coins in the driver ashtray i think one or two of them fell behind the tray and when I placed the tray closed, it closed and will not open. The more i pushed it the more it went in. How do I open this without damaging the wood.
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Happened 2 days ago, just as it started to rain. The sunroof opened about 15 cm, then just as I was starting to try to close it, it then closed itself by reversing smoothly.
Since then the sun roof has operated normally. I have waited for this problem to repeat, but it hasn't. For the first time, I tried to do a search, but failed using the key words "Sun Roof" and "moon roof". Since I know there has been several threads regarding the repair of the opening dial using a Bic pen casing, I know I am performing the search incorrectly. Issue only has happened once, and my hands were nowhere near the opening dial.
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I collected a 6 month old demonstrator Phaeton on Friday to replace my previous 3 year old.
It's interesting all the little changes in the upgrade model, and it has (to me) a different feel. Quite a bit of this may be due to the 19" wheels which do contribute quite a but more road noise at higher (motorway) speeds.
My real query is the sunroof on this car. I hear significant wind noise from the closed roof at higher speeds (an indicated 80 to 90 mph). On inspection I suspect that the front lip of the sunroof is a few mm proud of the roof.
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Several times now I have found that the courtesy lights stay ON after all the doors are closed, and the dash switch is indeed off. This has caused the battery to drain.
I have opened and closed all doors numerous times and the light won't go off. I can't seem to find where the door switches are so that I can inspect them.
The last time this happened I was forced to remove the fuse, then the next day I put the fuse back in and the lights operated correctly.
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I have one problem, my trunk does not close, I close but it is not closed, the system does not close and the door is open.
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Today I tried to open the trunk from the Remote and the Door switch, and it will not pop up, after pressing the button (remote or door) you will hear the click from the switch in the trunk itself, but nothing else, before (when the trunk was working) after the click it will pop up 5 mm that way I can slide my fingers under and lift it.
Dealer said the latch is not pushing the trunk up and they are going to replace it ? After checking the parts manual I can see there are two types of latch, with Hydraulic with Closing assist (P/N: 3D5 827 302 J) and No Closing Assist, that means that's the part they are going to change, the one with Closing Assist ?
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Just got back from the store and the trunk will not close. Goes about 2/3 the way and stops. On inspection it seems the cable enclosure from the body to the trunk lid is not retracting(?) properly and causing the pinch protection to kick in as the cable appears to be very rigid.
Two questions: Could this be due to cold weather (less than 20F)?
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My key is stuck in the trunk lock and ...
Can't open the trunk from inside the car because the car thinks the trunk is already open.
Can't open manually - I think the latch is broken.
Can't override the power trunk mechanism with Vag Com.
Short of removing the rear seat to attack this from the inside, is there any way to resolve this?
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