Phaeton :: How To Get Out Of Transport Mode
Aug 24, 2008
I read the post about towing a Phaeton and it mentioned then when flat-bedding one for several days, say cross country, you should first have a dealer put it into "transport mode." If you do that, when you get it to the other end, how do you get it out of transport mode?
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What are the cargo dimensions inside a Prius C? Mine's a 2014, and I need to know if I can transport a 2"X6" that is 101.5" long.
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I have '98 Transport Montana and I took it on a trip last weekend on the expressway. I would be doing 70 MPH and approach a hill and start depressing the accelerator to maintain my speed and I could feel a chugging. Also, I could hear the engine seem to make a change in its sound coincident with the chugging. The RPMs at this point were around 2K. It's a 3.4 and all of the normal stuff has been maintained properly (spark plugs, filters, etc.).
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Happened once or twice where I tried to back up a hill and the car went into limp mode. Neither the dealer nor my mechanic could replicate it.
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I'm having a ton of fun driving in Sport transmission mode. One thing I'm noticing though is pretty rough downshifting from 3-2-1 sometimes. Often I hear and feel a clunk.
So I'm wondering if the transmission may not be adapted to me yet, since I've only had the car for 5 weeks, or could I be looking at an issue. No lights or warnings on the dash.
Also wondering if there is a way to "reset" the learning algorithm of the transmission without the VAGCOM?
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While driving in either D or S mode, the transmission jerks in 3rd gear changing into 4th and then its fine. but it always happens in 3rd. The jerks are very very quick.
My car is 4.2L 2004 V8 (6 speed) and it has 30,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2004 Phaeton V8 with about 68K miles. The transmission works great in both Drive and Sport mode but the shifter doesn't want to move to the right to engage Tiptronic mode most of the time. I can get it into Tiptronic about 20% of the times I try. Isthis indicative of any bigger problem?
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I can not start the car . After connecting the battery car is in drive mode . As if it was ignited . Locked the key in the ignition. Probably module KESSY . The number of my module: 3D0 909 135 L. Is there a substitute that would actually work when reprograming?
3D0 909 135 N ?
3D0 909 135 J ?
Replacing transistors and resistors? Additionally, the module displays the error.
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My transmission control module has gone bad, resulting in the car being in"limp" mode. I am advised not to drive the car in this condition as it starts out in 3rd and the transmission will be damaged. Thus far, my local dealer has, on a preliminary basis, been advised that there are none of these parts available anywhere in the world according to the computer and VW may have to manufacture one. This does not sound possible. Meanwhile, the dealer says no rental car will be offered so I am contacting VW North America to escalate. It could be up to a month to get a new part. Meanwhile, the car is in the garage just sitting.
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Just set off on a day out, got about 3 miles and the cars gone into limp mode (running smoothly but no power) with the glow plug light flashing. I got back to the caravan so we weren't stuck at the side of the road and tried restarting it. It starts off for about a minute before coming back on. I've noticed that revving it in neutral the revs linger for a second our so after taking my foot off as if its not recognizing that the throttle position has changed.
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Recently, I've noticed that sometimes my driver's seat gets hot, even though the switch is in the cooling mode. I had gotten in the habit of turning the switch back to the detent "0" setting, and then put it back into the cooling mode (-1 to -3) and all would work well again. However, yesterday, that little trick didn't seem to work and so it seems my seat heater is being activated even when the switch is supposed to be telling it only to run the seat ventilation fan. Is it likely just a failing switch?
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I am one of the few that has ADC on my 2004 V10.
Occasionally, 3 times now. I press the ON button and the cruise control does not initialize properly. After a while it will say "Temporarily unavailable" . The problem is that then there is no power any more.
I stop on the hard shoulder of the motorway, engine off, engine on and all is reset, ADC works ok and full power is restored.
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My driver side window intermittently in express mode up bounces off the top sill then rolls back down about 3/4. Motor replaced twice, regulator once. Still no fix.
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Got in the car today and moved the gear selector into the manual shift mode. Usually there is no play forwards or backwards. Today there was about 3/8 of an inch travel forward before the spring tension started. I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the console latch replaced but was wondering why encountered this anomaly in the shift mechanism?
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2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
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I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
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I have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
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My AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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So i noticed, when in auto mode, whether sport mode is on or off, it does the same thing. If i floor it from a stand still, the transmission takes noticeably longer to go from 1st into 2nd then from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. 1st to 2nd takes like a good second, kinda like this:
1st VROOOOM.....................2nd VROOOM..3rd VROOOM..4th.....etc..
If I drive it in manual mode, then it shifts just as fast. So this only happens in auto.
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I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
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