I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton. According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
I need to change spark plugs in my daughter's 2010 Tiguan but I have never worked on a VW before. How do I get to the spark plugs and what brand is recommended?
View 6 RepliesI'm wondering when I should get the spark plugs change.
I have 08 GS350 with 57k.
I want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
I am a newbie here, and also a new owner of a 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.4 engine. It has 68K miles on it and looks to have been well cared for. I have a couple questions. First the truck is runnig great, no problems. I have read the threads regarding the spark plug issues and was looking for an opinion about changing them. Should I wait until I have problems, or due to the age of the truck, should I go ahead and attempt it soon? Also, I would like to find a used cap for the bed. I have the 6.5 bed, and wondered what range of years would work with my truck.
View 3 RepliesGot a 2015 6.2. No where near time to change plugs, with alot accessories i have installed it would suck if the cab has to come off. Can the plugs be changed with the cab on?
View 12 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
All the oil leak out of engine after a oil change? and i have oil in the spark plug tubes
View 6 RepliesI got the APR ECU Tune in June along with VW Racing air intake. Car runs great except... the engine is knocking under full load. The guy who did the install heard it right away but I just thought he was trying to up sell me. He suggested new spark plugs.
Well it's two (three?) months later and I've come to accept that I can't drive it in the 91 program anymore (I paid extra for the ability to switch programs - lucky!!). I was switching back and forth between 91 and stock and I can hear the difference.
Are spark plugs the likely fix, and how do I choose the right ones for my Mark VI Golf R? "one step cooler"??
I just did the plugs and now the check engine light is on?
View 6 RepliesI recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
View 13 RepliesI just changed my spark plugs the other day and since then my engine is hard idling and skips and jumps while I'm driving it. I'm being told I either need to change the spark plug wires or the coil packs. So my question is which do I need to change? And is there anyway to test which one I need to replace?
View 12 RepliesHow long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
View 5 RepliesI am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
View 2 Replies'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
View 10 RepliesI was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
I was thinking about change my spark plugs on friday so today I went to check the ones the car have open the hood took the engine cover out and the ones on the sides, I see 6 wires 4 going to the left side(air intake side) and 2 going to the right side (where the oil fil cap is) so I say think this should be the spark plugs wires. I take one of the left side wires out and is cover in oil so I keep taking the other out one by one and all of them have a lot of oil I can't even see the sparks plugs. All the wires have numbers on top 1 to 6. I say this have to be the wires cause I don't see any other place where the plugs can be located at. The car is a 99 v6 fwd...
View 7 RepliesHad issues with TBI, rebuilt. Had some starting problems after truck sat for 1 day or more, but would start after a few tries. At one point when it was particularly stubborn, starter lead vibrated off. Once reconnected, truck started, ran fine, but had some electrical humming & radio interference. The starting issue continued with some low rpm stumbling, when driving check engine light would come on at cruising speeds and go off 7-8 seconds after letting off gas.
Had 1 day lest week when I drove a bit more then normal (150+) but ran fine other then engine light. Next day started, but ran horribly rough with violent back fires. At one point stalled and would not restart. It looked and acted like it was flooding itself out and poor spark. Less then a year I replaced cap, rotor and coil. Now I have done all new plugs and wires. Now it appears I have no spark. I had been in the dash messing with the blower motor relay 2 days prior to the stalling and not starting.
Does the ECM control spark? Cant it go bad slowly? And if I had to do alot of cranking of the engine to get it to start, would that have any thing to do with it going bad?