Phaeton :: How Low Can Drop The Ride Height
Dec 27, 2012
Looking out the window at the over 2 feet of snow in the driveway makes me wonder....how low can I drop the ride height?? I have already lowered to ROW specs -10mm and have just recieved a set of 19" Helios wheels from Santa to install in the spring. Do I fudge the controller for another 10mm or install the adjustable link kit from "LOWERMYRIDE"??? What is the sweetspot 20mm,30mm??
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I'm over at my sisters and she is complaining that her ride height adjustment does not work. She needs to use it for the car to clear the end of her garage (there is a small ledge at the end) I hop in and push the button... nothing happens, nothing in the infotainment or MFA. I'm wondering if the switch is not making contact? Or could it have something to due with the not enough air pressure? I think I'll try to put it in "jack" mode, maybe that will reset it. Anything else I should try? I guess I'll drive it in to work for her (which is normally fun for both us, she likes to drive my R32 and I love driving the Phaeton )
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The other day I saw this message (or something similar) in the instrument cluster display for the first time. I was parked, car unladen, engine not running, parking brake on, facing somewhat uphill, when I attempted to change to the higher ride height.
The Handbook doesn't refer to conditions for ride height adjustments.
I'm pretty confident my batteries are fine. I attributed the reluctance to the fact that the car was pointing uphill, though on reflection may that not be exactly a time when you do need to change ride height?
A few minutes later, driving on the level, the ride height adjusted perfectly well, and it has done so since whether moving or at rest.
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I am getting some coilovers soon, but noticed a lot of people having camber issues when slammed, I am not looking to be on the ground, just wanna get rid of wheel gap. My goal is to have 1 finger between the tire and wheelwell. Is this doable without issues?
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I already have sport Eibach springs and my shocks and struts are about to go, but this gives me an opportunity I can either go coilovers or all sport suspension. I want to go a little lower though than what its sitting at now, especially when I put my 18x8 wheels on. I definitely want to go static, air ride is too much. So I was wondering if I went with the blistein sport shocks and struts with the sprt eibach springs would it sit lower?
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Here is my 2004 Excursion PSD. The X was already lifted when we bought it, but I'd love to return it to stock ride height or near stock w/ the larger tires on 16's. So, not having been around 4x4's for long, how the heck do I figure out how it was lifted? Shackles, different springs, who knows??? Basically is just too much of a PITA not fitting into car washes and not being able to fit it in my garage for repairs.
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Myself and ZAC1 have an identical issue regarding ride height on our GT's. The rear driver side is lower than the rest of the car (or the passenger side is higher).
In my case you can notice it just by looking at the car from a distance, mainly from the rear. Using a tape measure to check the height of the wheel well to the ground, the driver side is 26", the passenger side is 26.5". I have measured it on a variety of surfaces just in case my garage was on a slope.
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I have an 07 LS 460 L with R-Spec data controller installed. I want to remove the data controller and go back to stock. I removed the data controller and the rear stays super low and tucked and the front stays raised like 3 fingers above the tire. So i reinstalled the data controller for now.
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I have been using it a lot over the last 2 years since I bought my 2005 3.0 TDi. Love the car, have had a few issues but nothing major. I do now have an issue with the seat belt height adjustment in the passenger side. It will go down, but not up....slightly annoying as you can imagine. When I press the button to raise the belt, nothing happens. Seat are 18 ways ventilated massage seats.
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I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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I'm not sure if this is a problem others have experienced here but for the last few months my rear view mirror angle would drop down and every morning when i got in the car i would need to readjust. I then thought that like every other moving part of the P that needs adapting that maybe the same applies to the mirror so i moved it to it's highest then lowest points, moved the seat all the way back, got out, locked the car, unlocked it, the seat and mirror had returned to the position stored in the memory and for the last month the mirror has not moved so I'm thinking that this has solved the problem.
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2004 W12 nearing 78k miles
Recently I've been experiencing a strange voltage drop when coming to a stop. The voltage gauge on the dash cluster indicates a solid 14v when in drive however when I come to stop (still in drive) the voltage will slowly drop to 12v suggesting the alternator is no longer charging the battery or something.
I've read other places that there can sometimes be issues with the battery controller, would this be a potential symptom of that? I've never had a dead battery or anything like that. I also installed HID fog lights recently which could be related to this issue, considering removing them entirely..
I'm also wondering if it could be related to a strange clicking noise coming from the engine bay somewhere, possibly my alternator is dying, plastic guides getting worn on the timing chain?
I'm hoping this is a simple case of needing the serpentine belt to be replaced and "slipping" when at a stop or something. Is there any way to examine the belt without moving the bumper to the service position?
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I have had the Prius since Jan 2008. Wife has developed arthritis in shoulders & can no longer reach up to rear tailgate when open. Looking for rigging up a height restrictor ? At present, use strap from rear luggage securing ring to the U-catch of the lock, but have to remove each time when closing. Any better solution?
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I understand this can be done with a phillips screwdriver inserted to the sprockets almost like a gear.
My question is, does turning the driver clockwise move the light up or down?
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So, I am starting to look at coilover kits. I really want to have as close to stock ride height in the winter. Deep snow and chunks of snow/ice on the road are common here and I don't want to break bumpers. At least I don't want to break bumpers any more than a stock car would.
In the summer however, I want to lose the gap. Really given the last couple of winters, it would be really nice to be able to change the ride height in just a few minutes, without removing wheels or jacking the car up.
It seems that the coilover kits I have seen so far start at about 1" lower than stock. Are there any kits out there that start at, or close to, stock height? I know 1" isn't much lower than stock, but again I am trying to get as close to stock for winter driving. Is there something that can be added to these kits to push the max height up some?
Oh yeah, ride quality and cornering performance are important too!
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when to use this feature.
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So I can successfully set the height at which the tailgate should stop, and in fact, the "power" function seems to stop there. But once the motors stop doing their thing, it just keeps slowly creeping up, as though the gas pressure in the struts is too strong for the tailgate weight. It's brand new, so this wouldn't be surprising. But is that the way it's supposed to work? If so, what's the point of setting a height at all? In my case, I want it top stop just a couple inches before hitting my garage door.
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I would like to know how you adjust the headlight height on your Tig. Does it have an electrical control/wheel on the dashboard or are there any different ways of adjusting.
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How do you adjust the rear height on coilovers? I have the ST coilovers which are comparable to the KW. Do I have to compress the spring and then adjust? I tried to do it with the wrenches given but the whole thing just turns with it. I'm going to lower the front some more and I want to do the rear as well. It is my first set of coilovers on a car and I had someone else do the install.
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For those lowered, how did you go about getting the beam height back to stock spec?
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Air suspension stay on HIGH position, the SELECT button is showing on NORMAL. I try to push UP or DOWN, the green led indicator doesn't respond, just stay at NORMAL position and NO flash at all.
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