During swap over of winter to summer tires I noticed some holes in the drivers side (left) rear suspension boot (cover). I assume that it is the result of rubbing against the body during suspension compression.
Considering either outright replacement of the boot or a band aid (patch) solution, along with some relieving of the suspected contact area on the body.
Suspension is functioning well otherwise. Car has 170K kilometres.
My Phaeton is approaching its 10th day at VW for a number of issues. Only the week before it was serviced and I was told everything was fine. At the service I asked them to look at the power boot and was told it was reset and working....
I took the car back as there was still a noise from the rear side under the car, sometimes when park was engaged the car did not sense it unless you fiddled with the lever whilst in park, the clock was slow and finally the boot would not open properly.
Specifically the boot issue was, When using either the button on the remote or the drivers boot release the boot tried to open around an inch and then immediately shut again. The only way to open it was to press open and then gently force it open. After fiddling for a while I realised that pressing the unlock then pressing the VW logo twice opened it sometimes! But not always.
Anyway VW cannot work out the problem and apparently their technical support has advised them to change the struts! I cant see how this is the issue .
Since I got my Prius V, i have this noise form the suspension... when i go over a bump, or a hole... It sounds like the exhaust is hitting on something. It could be the brakes too. It does not sound like something is broken, but more like a tin sound hitting on something...
If windows are closed the ride is smooth, but when I open i keep hearing this sounds, and its driving me crazy... Is that normal for Prius V because of the different tiers?
My Accord does not have any similar sounds driving on the same road every day... actually ride with Accord is way better... Is that normal, should I go back to dealer? Car is 3000 miles only...
For a couple of weeks now, my boot keeps re-opening when I close it while the car is locked.
My usual workaround is to unlock the car, close the boot and only then, lock the car. However, yesterday evening, this did not work, i.e. I closed the boot then locked the car, but as the car locked, the boot decided to open on its own...
Tried it several times, and ended up leaving the car open (we were invited for dinner at friends of ours, so leaving the car unlocked was not problematic) as I preferred this to leaving the boot open...
Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
View 3 RepliesJust noticed something strange. Haven't opened the boot for a few days and We have had some really heavy rain but today, when I did open the boot water, poured out between the carpet on the inside of the boot and the metal. Has water in the actual boot or is there some drain holes I need to check.
View 7 RepliesJust picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
Twice this past fortnight I've come down in the morning to find my boot open while the car is on the drive, and as I normally store around 600 worth of golf kit in there this obviously isn't ideal !
Either someone else's transmissions are opening it or, more likely, I'm accidently pushing the button as I fumble around trying to get two small kids and associated baggage through the front door.
Is there any way of disabling the key fob boot release without disabling the switch function of the VW sign on the boot ? I'm considering opening up the remote and removing the switch unless can think of a better solution ?
I am a new Phaeton owner, 2004 v10 with the electric boot. I recently had the batteries run flat after leaving a charger in the 12v socket not realising it remained powered. After trickle charging the batteries for 3 days I cant get the boot to operate electrically.
I have scanned with VAG-COM and don't have any errors on the convenience module. The switch on the boot is not illuminated. If I press and hold the boot button on the keyfob the hazards flash but nothing happens. I have followed the reset procedure with no difference. Interestingly on the dash the car does not show the boot as open when it is up. It appears to be receiving no power but I can probe and have tried to reset the parameters of location 22 and 23 on the convenience controller and wouldn't expect access if there was no power. The boot mechanism was working perfectly before the battery ran flat.
Phaeton w12 ... I put new inner and outter tie rods on and new dust boots (the accordion style ones).
I am getting popping noises when I turn from the boot. It's been going on for a couple months now. I tried swapping left to right, greasing them etc nothing works ...
I'd noticed an oil leak drivers side and upon investigation it appears the rack has developed a leak. I lifted the car on the vehicle lift and when I did noticed oil pouring out of the boot surrounding the steering linkage coming from the steering rack. With the tires dropped the full amount this created a tilt of said boot allowing the oil that had filled the boot to drain out. My conclusion is the rack has developed a leak with the boot being full of oil.
I did a "steering rack" search but nothing of value appeared.
I opened the boot via the door panel button. Loaded suitcases in and pressed button down on the boot lid.
The two hooks ( plastic and metal one ) directly came out and the boot lid did not move at all.
Tried a reset the whole procedure found on this excellent forum. but no result. I also tried to put my key in the boot lock and it doesnt want to lock or unlock.
I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
I've looked at [URL] at the three primary hitch receivers for the 2013 RX 350; Curt, Hidden, Draw-tite.
From the side profile picture which etrailer displays for each, the Curt has one hole and the other two have two. Those two appear to be different sizes. The one on the Curt seems to appear smaller than the larger of the other two holes on the other two hitch receivers.
I called etrailer and the person I spoke with could not tell me why they were different, they just read the specs I see on the page, tongue weight, load, blah, blah.
With my hitch, I will need to haul a Yakima trailer, about 450 Ibs total, it is a very lightweight trailer, or a 2" Yakima bike rack. Maybe some day, I'll need to haul something of substance, but I have no plans.
I'm also wondering if a hitch which is recessed back, will it be difficult to work the pin in and out?
Having owned my 2010 Santa Fe less than a week, am learning and listening to any noises and things that go on with the car to make sure I am happy with it. There have been a couple of things that are easy sorts by the Dealer I bought it from, but I am a little worried about a Clonk noise coming from the rear of the boot and is this normal.
Although I didn't buy the car from Hyundai I still have the remainder of the 5 year warranty and the mileage is low, obviously the dealer I bought it from is the first person to speak too, but I think I should get Hyundai to check as they will no more about the car. It may be something simple but don't want to leave it and find out it could be a major problem, as I am worried about it being related to the Self Leveling Suspension as I know this is costly and obviously would want Hyundai to look into while under warranty.
When I am driving along and go over a rut in the road or a hump or something it's like something in the rear jumps and clonk as it comes back down.
Having just got the car the boot is empty and I haven't even found a load cover for it yet, the 2 rear seats are down, checked the tyres and they have been pumped up to the correct pressure.
I have had a look at the tools and I don't think it is anything moving around there and it would make more of a rattle rather than a clonk. I not sure if I have a spare wheel and whether it is located underneath the car as I can't get down underneath and have a look as I have difficulties with bending, kneeling etc.
If there is a problem with the suspension or shocks etc would it make this sort of noise, would I notice anything in the way it drives etc. The noise sounds a lot like it is inside but can't think what it would be, definitely a sort of sound like something is lifting off and clonking back down.
I am not sure if it is the high pressure or low pressure line. The line had rubbed on the frame and it wore a hole in the line. I want to get this fixed and wondered any remedies or if I need to replace the whole line. Someone said I could take it to a radiator shop and they could repair the line???
View 14 RepliesI took ownerhip of my R32 last week, there are a couple of things that I have noticed that I need to sort out.
1. There is a resonating sound at low speed from the rear boot trim, right where the rear windscreen wiper is, I can also make it happen when the boot is open by flicking the trim, is it loose, or what, is this a common problem..? Do I need to remove the trim and fix something...?
2. There is a black box under the driver seat with some electronics in it, I am dammned if I can get the lid to go back on properly, I have had a look and can't see any plastic Tabs broken, but it won't go back on properly, just keeps falling off...I have long legs so my seat is nearly as far back as it will go for me to drive, so this box is exposed, I need to get this on properly.
3. The cupholder thing down between the driver and passenger seat, there is a sliding lid on it, it is stuck half open (or closed..!?) and I can't get it open or closed, how th heck do I get at this to fix it...?
4. I will be looking what version Firmware the RNS 510 / MFD2 is, I am also looking for iphone integration, I have blue tooth for calls, and Sat Nav and the bigger display MFD....and would like to control the phone / tunes with the steering wheel, and see the track info in the MFD.
I have a 1997 wolfsburg Passat vr6 glx automatic. I was in the middle of replacing the shifter light bulb that is down in the housing of the black console when I noticed a black electrical cord coming out of the rear of the housing hole. Right next to it was the other end it plugged into but they were not plugged together. I plugged them up and haven't noticed anything different. Just wondering what if anything it goes to.
View 2 RepliesOn my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 VW Phaeton 4.2L with 101,000 miles on the clock. I purchased it from a dealer in Phoenix Arizona two months ago. Now, I am no stranger to flagship cars. I have a Mercedes S500, S600, CL55, E320... etc. I am also no stranger to air suspension.
Now, this car... while I LOVE it, it feels like I am driving a go-cart at boomers. My 1992 Jeep Cherokee is more luxurious than the ride on my Phaeton.
I just had major work done at a very reputable VW/Audi only shop called Pacific German in Laguna, CA. The dealer just told me that my stabilizer link bushings needed replacing and everything would be good to go (what a waste of a $400 diagnostic fee). At Pacific German, I spent $6,500 and had every last upper and lower arms replaced as well as the timing service (thermostat, water pump, etc), valve cover gaskets, tire pressure service.
The owner told me there were no codes for the suspension at all on any of his scanners (including VAG-Com). As far as the car's computer was concerned, the suspension is perfect. Only codes are for the batteries, which are new but are not VW batteries... and for the center cluster backlight (because that middle screen is not lighting up). I can control the suspension settings from comfort to firm via the knob, but that doesn't affect the ride quality. The car goes up and down just fine with the raise function and the car doesn't seem to have a leak when parked for a long time. It stays level. Tire Pressure System is not functioning properly, but the pressures are correct.
What in the world could be going on? I heard of replacing a fuse in the trunk, but which one? I do not want to give up this car, but driving it is starting to give me migraines. It feels like someone has replaced my air struts with 2x4's from Home Depot.
I have an 04, one air spiring is leaking. Covered by real driver warranty. VW no longer makes the part so they have to replace the entire system, it costs about $10,000. Great car but if you are buying one, get the real driver warranty.
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