Phaeton :: Hard Cold Start / W12 Fire Up On Second Try
Mar 14, 2010
I have been having trouble with a hard cold start on my W12. when I go to start the car it will crank and crank I can hear it fire on a few cylinders but is not starting on the first try. It will then fire right up on the 2nd try and is fine when it is warm. I had it into the dealer and the replaced the battery in the key and cleared the misfire codes they also did the coil pack swap. I am still getting the hard starting...
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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Wifes Escape with the 3.0 has been progressively getting harder to start. It spins over just fine, but now takes between 3 to 8 seconds to actually fire. In the last six months the alternator, spark plugs, air filter have all been replaced. Engine runs perfectly, never stalls and seems fine in every other way. I've cleaned the throttle body and the IAC is working fine.
Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4L V6. The engine runs perfectly as long as it is kept hot. If allowed to cool completely it will crank and crank all day but never fire. However, if I disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and reconnect it, it fires right up every time. I have good fuel pressure when it will not fire, but it seems as if the injectors will not fire. Suspecting the injection driver, I replaced the ECM/PCM. The exact same problem still exists.
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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I've been driving my wife's 2001 Ford ZX2 for the last ~9 months.
Early on in taking over driving it I noticed that it was difficult to start, so I had the battery checked. One place said it need to be replaced, but I wanted confirmation so I had it checked at two other places--it was in the normal range. So then I thought it probably needed a tune up since, as far as I know, it had never had one (has ~50K and I know it should've been done earlier). But, that didn't seem to fix it either.
I then had the fuel filter replaced. Nothing. I generally turn the key over for a few seconds before I actually crank it to let fuel in. It is now taking 3 times each startup to do this. And, right after starting it feels like the car is struggling to get gas (as if the fuel filter is completely stopped up or a fuel link is kinked).
Once the car is warm it cranks over on the first time (as if nothing is wrong). The last time I was at the shop they told me I need to have my fuel injection system cleaned. I have doubts about this--they based it on mileage not any sort of actual diagnostic or inspection. I use quality gas and run a fuel injector cleaner at each oil change.
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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The last couple of times that I've started my W12 after sitting over night or longer I've noticed a misfire for 10-20 seconds and then it cleans up. Today the engine icon illuminated and after returning home I ran a VAG-COM scan which revealed these DTC's. There are 7 found faults at address 11.
My question is this- What exactly is causing this misfire issue? I'm assuming there is a faulty piece under the hood begging for attention but I don't know which item it is.
Everything else seems to be performing as it should but I see a few other faults showing up. Are any of those faults anything that needs looking into?
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.6
Data version: 20121223
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
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For some reason every time I start up the car the air con has reset itself to "low" resulting in me being blasted with ice cold air no matter what it was set to when I got out.
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No indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
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The Phaeton is really a creature of its own. It is not a year since I bought my 2003 W12 and have had it towed three times since. The latest bother is that the engine doesn't fire on all cylinders. The ignition coils have now been replaced on all cylinders, and first it seemed to be fixed but after some thousand kilometers it misfired again. As always on a Sunday on a long trip... the warning lights go on and this time I just drove along despite what the manual says. It wobbled along and after maybe 10 kilometers it get fired on all cylinders again. The warning light is still on though.
Now after having drove the car a couple of shorter runs the ignition works fine and now the warning light, today, wasn't on. So is all well and dandy now? Another little bother, the back door, behind the drivers door, that one cannot be opened. Sometimes it opens sometimes not. No matter how many times you press the "open" button on the remote control, it doesn't open. No matter if you press the button above the inside handle, it doen't open. So, out of the blue, it opens ok! How about that one????
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The last 3 cold weather starts (30-40 degrees) resulted in somewhat of a hesitancy when the engine turned over - started on the first attempt, though. And - the last time - there was a very transient flash of a red warning indicator in the large computer screen/info center in the instrument cluster - too fast to read - then ran a little rough for the first 15-30 seconds.
I recently had the 40k service completed and everything checked out fine. I did some reading about the ignition coil recall, but my symptoms don't sound like they lend to their failure.
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Since I had my 40k service a few months back, I hear a knocking sound for about 3-5 seconds after a cold start (overnight is long enough). It's a pretty loud clicking sound, even worse if the car hasn't been started for a few days.
I brought it to the dealership and they said it's "the sound of the lifters clicking before they get pressurized with oil". They said the oil level is fine. Doesn't seem kosher to me - didn't happen before the 40k service.
Could they have used the wrong oil? Or perhaps didn't put something back together again properly?
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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I have a 2000 Kia Sportage which has been having troubles starting when cold and I'm not quite sure as to why. In January of 2012 I had to replace both the Battery and Alternator in this car because they were both bad. I bought the alternator from O'reilly Auto Parts and the Battery from Walmart. Once I replaced both the battery and alternator last year things were fine up until recently when I discovered that my car would not start. I did not leave anything on that could have drained the battery, but it acted as though the battery was dead.
I had to get a jump start from someone and go back to O'reilly. They tested the battery and the alternator in the car and it was concluded that the alternator was bad. I exchanged that alternator because it was a limited lifetime warranty and put a replacement re manufactured one in straight out of the box and got a jump start again because the battery level was down.
Things were working great until after I went to a couple of stores and was heading home. I heard what sounded like an electrical pop and then immediately after that the car started acting up again. When I got home I left the car running and put my multimeter on the battery to test it while it was running. It read 11.8 Volts while running. I went back to O'reilly and swapped that alternator out with another one.
With the first battery and alternator the readings that I was getting while cold was 12.1. After the first replacement alternator was installed it was reading 14.0 while running before the pop sound. After the pop sound it dropped to 8.60.
With the current replacement alternator it is reading between 13.3 to 13.6 while running. While cold it is reading between 12.2 and 12.4.
Are my readings normal or do they indicate a problem? It was suggested by one parts guy that there might be a drain on the system, but at the moment I can't figure out as to where a drain might be coming from. It was also suggested that alternator connectors might be faulty on the car itself.
When the car is idling and running it sounds like it's a bit erratic. I did replace the Ignition coils in 2007. How would I determine if there is a drain on the system and if there is a drain on the system where it might be coming from?
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I am experiencing issues with starting my '08 R32 when it is cold (winter, CO). Almost all of the time it sputters when starting cold and 25% of the time is stalls out and I have to restart. My local dealer told me it is related to the fuel tank valve recall?????
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I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
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I have a 2000 Honda accord and in the cold it has a hard time starting. It will turn over but it is like it is not starting right away. I also notice there are times when it starts to turn over but then it dies out.
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The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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I just bought an 03 Ex that hadn't been driven but 600 miles the past three years. Needless to say, there's probably some sludge causing issues somewhere. I have a Scangauge installed, which has been very useful thus far.
I've flushed the coolant, currently with distilled water, changed the oil and filter, atf and filter, and installed my 2nd set of fuel filters after getting stranded after I ran my first tank of fuel through it. After changing the fuel filters the second time, I was still having cold starting problems, requiring 3-4 long cranks before firing. Once warm, runs fine. I just installed a FICM from Diesel Tech Ron, but I still have to try 3-4 times to get it to cold start, then it runs and starts ok. Not sure why the hard cold starts...
Also, the heat doesn't work. A/C is fine, blower is working. I installed a new thermostat, and like I said, I have flushed the coolant with tap water and now distilled water, but didn't want to pour in fresh coolant just yet, in case I have to drain it again with this heat issue. That vc7b is not cheap. Tonight I drove the truck about 20 miles and my highest temps for EOT was around 215 and ECT was 205. Fluctuated between the the mid 190s to low 200s most of the time, this was over some hilly roads with no load or anything. Anything else I can monitor or check on in the mean time?
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