Phaeton :: HVAC Blower Won't Turn Off?
Dec 6, 2010
I have a problem that's sprung up all of a sudden and I wanted to run it by you before taking it in to VW. For the past three days or so the blower on my Phaeton's HVAC has been unresponsive to my control, staying on its highest setting permanently, even when I turn off the car.
This of course means that overnight power management takes over and when I get to the car in the morning I have to unlock it with the physical key, the clock has to be reset and I get all kinds of warnings about level fault and system fault. These warnings go away immediately as the car powers up, and everything is back to normal except for the fan.
I've tried resetting all settings on the control unit, but since the fan stays on even when the car is off, I feel like it's not software? The rest of the HVAC settings seem to work fine- I can toggle the vents and change the temperature, just not the blower speed.
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Today something strange happened to HVAC. The air blower is always set at full speed regardless of the HVAC setting, mode, etc. The fan speed control does nothing now, even turning the HVAC off is not working.
The only way is to shut the ignition, even when the ignition is off, the solar ventilation function works even when it is set to off!
I believe that a relay or a contractor from the solar ventilation is jammed but not sure because I've re coded the roof electronics to "no sunroof" at all but still didn't work.
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A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
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I'm new and have recently bought my first X. its a 2001 XLT with the 5.4. I really couldn't pass it up with the guy asking under 7K with 104,000 miles and not a rust bucket.
I discovered last night that my blower (at least front) continues to blow when key is out and off. I have played with the key to think its a switch but am not sure. Here's the other part, If I turn the selector to off before shutting the truck off it stays off BUT if i turn it on it will not go back off and stays on....
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Over the past year we have been noticing that the HVAC blower doesn't turn on from time to time. All settings in the control panel seem normal and the fan speed is turned on. Most of the time everything is working normally, sometimes when the car starts the blower isn't working and then starts after a minute of driving. Sometimes I notice the blower isn't working and I turn up the fan speed and after a few clicks it starts working normally for the remainder of the drive. And then sometimes the blower doesn't ever start and I need to turn off and restart the car a few times. When the blower hasn't been working the a/c compressor has been turning on, something in the blower circuit is failing.
There are five possibilities:
The HVAC controller isn't telling the blower to turn on
The power relay isn't always working
There is a wiring or connection problem
The blower motor itself isn't working
The power mosfet is failing.
What needed to be replaced?
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My '04 Phaeton was towed Nov. 24 - completely dead, blower motor fan would not turn off...even powered OFF, with key out of the ignition! Both batteries were then drained, had to be replaced to diagnose...
Ended up being blower motor fan resistor. The tech said the ESP/ESC (?) light was "now on" where it was NOT on before all this. He did not run a diagnostics, not sure why. And not sure why service manager didn't mention it before I paid and checked out. :/
But NOW the car is doing some funky things.... upon start-up, whether pulling out in drive or backing out in reverse, the brakes (or SOMETHING ??) seem to be erratically grabbing, there is an awful grinding/scraping noise, the car jerks and stutters and hops, just for a few seconds, then something seems to "give"/"release" and the grinding and scraping and jumping stops and I roll on like normal. BUT the ESP light (that is now CONSTANTLY on), BLINKS/FLASHES when this grinding and stutter-stepping happens. It sounds awful, it feels awful, and it's making me nervous. Of course I contacted VW service immediately, and they're saying I can bring it back in to run diagnostics.
I know for a fact the car was completely dead, NOTHING worked, as both batteries were "fired" according to VW.....so nothing between the car dying and the batteries and blower motor being fixed transpired -- except the towing. And my guess is the had to DRAG it onto the flatbed in PARK b/c it would not take a charge at all to put in NEUTRAL.
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2005Accent. First question: Just replaced blower assembly last week and worked normally. Now the blower operates even with the car off and the no keys in the ignition. The fan speed selector still switches between all speeds whether it's running or not, so it doesn't seem to be the resistor.
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My 1995 Ford motorhome blower does not work. The motor works fine. All threads say to follow the circuits to troubleshoot. That is nearly impossible with wiring harnesses. I need a Ford F- Series HVAC wiring schematic to find ALL of the electrical components, in order to test.
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I am struggling with it, and need to get it done - by myself, as I can't afford a service job. I am handy, and comfortable doing it, But I am confused about how to get into the blower housing.
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So I just picked up a 08 STL. I noticed that it doesn't get a lot of airflow out of the vents or floor. I initially thought that it was door actuators. I checked the vacuum at all of them and they all cycled as required.
I also checked the blend door, and the fresh air doors as well. They all cycled as desired. When I was checking my fresh air door with the borescope, I noticed a layer of... insulation maybe? on top of the inlet for the blower. So I removed the blower, and the picture below is looking up into the housing. Is that supposed to be there? It appears extremely dense, so I am led to believe that's what is causing my flow issues.
If it does not belong, how to remove it? Where is the fresh air inlet on this thing?
Full size : [URL] .....
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Just got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
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I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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My HVAC blower switch only works when I put it on 5 (the highest setting). What needs to be replaced (besides the whole truck)?
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Blower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
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My Elantra's HVAC fan has always been a quiet thing, even on 3.....we won't mention level 4 and the fact it sounds like a 747 at takeoff.
I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.
Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.
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So I believe I have glitch in my blower system. When I have the car and heater on, it comes through, but it feels like the blower isn't working much at all. however, when I but the car in reverse or hit the windshield wiper cleaner, the blower starts doing its job like it should.
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I recently started having a problem with the air conditioning on my Axio. For some reason the blower refuses to turn off, even if the car is off. If i put on the A/C it blows at the highest speed, even if i try to low down the fan and its getting pretty annoying now!!
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When I turn the engine off on my Trailblazer, there is a fan under the dash that continues to run. It sounds like the blower fan. I ended up having to pull the number 34 fuse out to make it stop. This fuse is labeled as "Ignition A". If I pull the #35 fuse, which is for the blower fan, it doesn't stop it. Is there something else besides a blower fan under the dash making this noise and why?
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