Phaeton :: Got ESP / Exhaust System Malfunction Lights?
Oct 31, 2015
One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
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Well after 8 weeks on owning this touareg this is the second warning light we have to deal with and also had the dead battery scenerio which took 2 trips for them to fix.. Man this is crappy for sure. I am busy at work and do not have time to search around so any info would be great about another TSB that I have to take in to the dealership or anything.
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So i've been having weird audio issues that seem to happen at random (three times in the past month), and have different symptoms. They all result in no sound coming from the speakers, however everything else functions properly. I can even switch audio sources and different tracks, but the audio system won't turn off and the volume won't change when changed on the steering wheel controls or by turning the knob. The first time this happened when i tried to turn off loudness and screen popped up that said the audio system was unavailable, this did not happen the second time. The problem fixes itself, when i turn off the engine take out the key and lock the car, and then start the engine again, it does not fix the problem. Only after i finish running the errand or park it in the garage does it function the next time i start the car up.
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We continue to be delighted with our 2008 V8, it's like having wings. I drove to England across France from Switzerland for 100 kms recently, had a wonderful day there and back. But when I play our iPod with WAV files through the sound system there is some distortion on loud notes, even at low volume. Strangely, when a young friend attached his iPod and then replaced mine, it did not distort. There is no distortion when using the CD changer or the Hard disk drive, but I prefer the large choice and full files on the iPod, given the great quality of the standard sound system. Now the sound distorts again when playing music on the iPod, and even if i detach the cable and replace it any number of times there is little difference.
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Have an early 2004 US Phaeton with the smaller sound system. Everything works normally on the system, but when putting some commercial CD's into the player can yield some really nasty clipping (clicking on drum-beats or other high-frequency sound) on the loudest sections. The clipping only occurs on the loudest sections, irrespective of how high the volume control is, and it only occurs when listening to the CD.
This is either a defect in the digital/analog converter in my particular unit, or it's a design defect with the whole series. For techies, the highest bit (#15) in the D/A is feeding an overload signal into the analog path of both channels. This symptom also could occur on CD's you burn yourself if you tend to record your CD's really loud (right up to the limit of CD dynamic range).
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My exhaust system warning light came on this afternoon. Think the cars needs to be parked until I can get it to the dealer.
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Earlier today my exhaust system warning light came on and stayed on. I am due for a 5 hour road trip tomorrow. I have 65K miles.
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I just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
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I just bought a 2013 Hyundai sonata (this is my first car) and I found a wired thing happening when I just turn on the car (without turning on the engine) that Malfunction indicator light, Changing System warning system warning light, EPS and Check Engine Light are ALL on but after I start the engine, these lights will be off. Is this normal or there is something wrong with it?
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So I'm driving home from work today, when I notice a new little light in the instrument cluster (looks like a little sun with a ! in the middle). So I dig out the manual and read..."Bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system."
I drove up close to see which DRL light is not on...so....at 15k miles my right front head lamp was out. I called my local dealer...the bulb is covered and will be replaced at no charge (4 yrs/50k miles). They said I could stop by anytime and get it replaced. So, no problem there...
But....question: Why do VW bulbs blow so often?? My old '99 Golf and '01 GTI both blew no less than 5 head lamp bulbs starting at about 15k miles (same as my current Passat now). I see VW's all the time with one "eye" out - just an observation - why is this?
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I have a 2006 prius I got used and in good condition about 3-4 years ago. I never had any problems until a cop pulled me over and it turned out my parents had decided not to notify me they hadn't renewed my registration and my insurance they've been paying had ran out. I've since learned my lesson on keeping up with the dates.
I "luckily" got to go home with just some tickets. It sat about 2-3 months until I could get the money to line everything out. I ran it at least once a week but apparently that wasn't enough? Now that everything's up to date I started driving it and the yellow circle with the (!) in it is on. The Master system light, the check malfunction light, and the hybrid system light is on.
It seems like it applies the brake when I'm driving constantly now. It stalls when I first try to speed up. And the fan? on the passenger side of the back seat is always running for some reason. I tested my battery volt and it's at 9.2.
I took it to an auto shop today in town. I live in WV in the backwoods. And they wouldn't hook it up to check for codes and referred me to a dealer about 30 min. away... I've never had any problems with this car before.
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I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
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Want to install exhaust system on my 06 F350.Tell me,what is the best brand for my truck,I know, very good intake system is from K&N,what about exhaust?
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
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I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
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My F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
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Long story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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