Phaeton :: Getting Message Brake Fluid Stop Vehicle?
Sep 16, 2011
I started back up again and 10 seconds later it came back on, but then went away for the rest of the 30-minute commute. Went out during lunch today and there's no message.
I'm gonna do a vagcom scan when i get home, but wanted to know if there's any history of brake fluid leaking and needing to be topped of.
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Lately I've been getting the Stop! Car too low! message when I start the car if it has been sitting more than 6 hours or so. the front appears to be too low. After 20-30 seconds, the front end raises up high enough and the message goes away. It didn't do this when I first got the car. I'm going in for my 80,000 mile service soon.
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I have received this alert a few times while driving - it lasts a few seconds and then goes off. My mechanic says oil pressure is good and suspects erroneous message. I also received that message once while the engine was not running, ignition on, listening to the radio. This seems t support erroneous message.
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I can not start the car by pressing the Start / Stop button. The display shows the message "Key Non found". Remote control key with normally opens and closes the car but the car itself does not open the approach to it. I have two keys and the two are the same.
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I started up the truck. It cranked perfectly as always. Was half way out of the parking lot going give mph and a warning beeping started with a message "stop vehicle safely". I did and the engine died. When I try to crank it it will not turn over at all. No power to engine at all.
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I DIY most of my vehicle maintenance (oil, brakes, coolant, filters, etc.) so I figured the brake fluid wouldn't be an issue on the GX. However, while searching for the proper DIY procedure I found a number of posts that claim some Lexus models can ONLY be flushed at the dealer with Techstream.
Is this true for the GX or will the typical DIY work (pump brake and hold down, release bleeder valve to bleed fluid, close valve release brake petal and repeat)?
One thing i noticed on the GX is that the brake pedal will not presurize the lines if you pump it with the car off. That itself tells me I may be in for a surprise if I try the DIY method...
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Wife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
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So, after the dealer found an open circuit and "fixed" the running gear workshop fault, as you know, it was right back again. Today, it happened as usual. At a light, I turned off the ignition and restarted, as this always resets it and it usually doesn't come back for a day or more.
However, something different happened. After restarting, I got a fault I've never seen. By now, I was on the highway. "Brake Fault, in RED. Stop Vehicle" is what it said. Transmission would not shift out of third, and I'm on the highway with the RPMs up to almost 5 grand just to keep at around 50.
I get off the next exit, which seemed an interminably long way, shut her down, started it back up, proceeded where I had to go, parked, and came home over 30 miles with no further faults.
It's bound to happen again. I'm ready for a trade-in, for sure. 42,500 miles and it's definitely going to get worse.
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brakes are functioning fine, fluid is OK.
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About three times in the last month the Brake Fluid Warning Light has come on as I merge from one freeway to another, taking a curve at about 60 mph. After about 20 seconds the light goes out. I do have brakes while the light is on.
I imagine this is a case of the brake fluid being a little low and the sensor coming on when the fluid shifts as I round the curve? Car is going in for 40k service early next week and will have them look at...
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I have a 2000 passat 1.8T and the ABS light and brake light comes on and shortly after the "stop, break fault "message shows up. The warning does not come on every time I drive the car only sometimes. Brake fluid has been topped off and everything else seems fine. Is it a bad sensor somewhere? Something else maybe?
My check engine light is also on and the code is p0118. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor but I still get the code. Was there some secret way to replace it that I didn't know about? Something else I should check?
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I have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge.
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This started out as an intermittent problem after I would run the a/c for a bit. Now it happens every time I get in the van regardless of if I turn on the a/c. The engine begins acting like I am pressing the gas pedal, but not flooring it. I have to press hard on the brake in order to get the vehicle to stop because it is trying to race ahead and I don't have to press the gas until around 45 mph. What in the world is going on with my van? If I throw it in neutral it just goes nuts. I have been pulling over, shutting off the van, waiting a few minutes, and then cranking up again. It could take a couple of minutes for it to start again or it will do it right away.
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I had been driving around with gallons of ATF in my trunk for a year until I recently had the power steering pump changed on my 1996 Toyota Camry (which spent many winters sitting outside up in Canada), and now the leak seems worse. I brought it to my mechanic who wants $800 to change a leaky rack & pinion and a hose. But I am but a poor, unfortunate grad student and so I have no more money to put on this old, yet beloved car! So he suggested I put in a combination of ATF and brake fluid, which might slow down the leak. What say you? Will I ruin my newly acquired power steering pump or make matters worse?
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2003 - I tried to change the brake fluid with a MityVac. I've done it to dozens of cars with no problem. With the Prius it didn't take it well as I have to pump the pedal sometimes to stop or the pedal goes way down. Only now I read about how a special Toyota scan tool is recommended to do it. Is there any other way? I only really did the front brakes since after trying one rear wheel cylinder and getting nothing out of it, I quit. The dealer wants $165 and I'm sure that doesn't include any extra shop fees and such they tack on. What other way can I try before taking it in?
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2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
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I got this message today, twice as I was pulling out of the driveway but it went away both times. After the 1st I stopped and pulled the key out of my purse. It came back on a 3rd time and right as I was trying to determine if it was significant enough to pullover when the hood flew up and hit the windshield. The hood was closed and there were no other messages.
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3 weeks in shop and still no end in sight regarding all the TSB and warranty work. One fix seems to lead to a new problem. Service guys are nice, but it sure is taking long. They thought it was nearly ready to go, but the latest error message showing up tells the driver to "put the vehicle in P" while driving.
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My 2012 Sonota's message center has just recently come up with this message 'Low washer fluid' which will not go away. The car has a low windshield washer fluid light which is not 'on' (to indicate a low fluid situation). I have filled the reservoir which has done nothing to either status (the low warning message, or the low warning light). It seems to me the both indicators should be saying the same thing but are not. The windshield washers are working just fine. I would like to clear the warning message. Is there a way?
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I am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
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I have since purchase of the car for 9 months ago enjoyed the use of the rsap functionality with my S6 connected over the Bluetooth.
Now without any knowable change of settings or update or hardware I got a no network message after connecting to the car.
The phone and the car are still connecting over BT and the phonebook is transferred and all the adjustments within DIS are working as before, I can even make a call but without connection to a network it won't work.
I know GP2s rsap is restricted to 2G networks and if I search networks manually with DIS , the car finds 2 of them, but can not connect none of them.
My service provider Comviq is telling me that there has not been any changes on the SIM card accessibility or newly implemented improvements or updates to Android.
They could anyhow confirm the 2G net being rather weak in the area and this could be the possible reason.
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