Phaeton :: Getting Judder In The Ride - Misfiring Petrol Engine
Sep 30, 2012
I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
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After replacement of the transmission, there is a distinct smell of gas/petrol, on starting the car after it has sat overnight. Other work done at the same time was replacement of all coils and plugs and air filters.
The car has 69K miles and is a V8. The dealer has checked fuel lines etc and found nothing. The car is in excellent condition and had no issues before the transmission failed.
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My steering wheel, when pulling away or towards me (reach) is juddery/squeaky. I think its the 'rubber bead/dust seal' under the instrument binnacle rubbing on the plastic steering column shroud as it moves in and out. It works and doesn't sound slow and the motor does not sound under strain, its just noisy as the shroud does not run smoothly against the 'rubber bead'.
Up and down (rake) is quiet.
To lubricate the plastic is silicone lubrication spray the way to go? Or is there another lubricant and/or quick & easy way to get it to not squeak.
Its not a big deal, but it would be nice to have it working properly when I get in and out.
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The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (MAX) ... This had happened before 3x, but was about to turn truck off and wait 10 second and turn back on. Then truck would run fine for months. I found this on my truck manual.
My truck is riding differently. Here's the story - I put new tires on Friday, an hour later, my truck started to ride rough. The light on dashboard is; Check engine, Engine power lost (truck would not get up when this was shown on dash. This error has not come up again), stibilitrac check. Truck's driving performance; Idle sputters (like RPM rising, but they are not, it’s just the engine shaking), once driving when it shifts hard at 3000 RPMs (only 2nd gear). I took my truck to Advance, and this was the error code I received; #6 Cylinder Misfiring and Actuator module.
I changed all spark plugs and number #6 was very dirty compared to the other and smelt very much so like gas. I have not driven this truck only cracked and it stayed in park. I had a person look at it, and he said that the #6 cylinder was the only problem he could find when he hooked up his code thingy. Now he played with everything and took out the #6 spark plug (this is now Tues) and said that it didn't smell of gas like it should have. At the end. he stated that we first should change the Injector for #6. and if that did not correct the problem, then he would recommend the lifters to be replaced. I asked how confident he was about "his" diagnosis. and he stated.... I am not a GM mechanic... wow. now I am confused as to what I should really do! BTW, he never cleared the error codes...
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Looking out the window at the over 2 feet of snow in the driveway makes me wonder....how low can I drop the ride height?? I have already lowered to ROW specs -10mm and have just recieved a set of 19" Helios wheels from Santa to install in the spring. Do I fudge the controller for another 10mm or install the adjustable link kit from "LOWERMYRIDE"??? What is the sweetspot 20mm,30mm??
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I've a 2004 Prius. Had it for 3 years. 40,000 miles. No problems what-so-ever. 55 to 60mpg without any effort.
During the winter I noticed that when the petrol engine switched off - there was a jolt. (It used to be totally imperceptible.) Nothing drastic - I have to be on smooth tarmac to notice.
My Toyota dealer said this sometimes happens in cold weather. However, the weather has warmed up - and I can still feel the jolt.
Don't know if it's connected, by the central display diagnostic check tells me...
EMV. Code: 01-DC. Sub-code: 1C6-F6-1
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Tiguan 2.0 TSI 2009... Lately I am experiencing occasional engine vibrations, especially once the engine is cold, but do come even after engine has warmed up. Sometime even at highway speed, i could feel the vibration, but no effect on engine pull or acceleration. There is no noticeable engine misfiring. On few occasions, one starting, the engine does not pick the rpm and rattles with EPS, Oil and CHG light remaining on. A little press on the accelerator and engine gets to normal idle. The diagnostic computer does not show any fault. The local VW dealer after an expensive trouble shooting has 'diagnosed' POSSIBLE low fuel pump pressure, faulty ignition coils and ignition leads, and a heavy bill for replacements.
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I have recently purchased a 2003 Subaru Baja Sport, the car of my dreams! I purchased the car in NC and drove it where I live in SC which is over 250 miles. The car smelled of petroleum based fluid and/or cleaner. I just thought the dealership cleaned the engine or oil may have been spilled during maintenance. A few weeks later, I had it in the dealership and they checked out. The head gaskets were replaced and the problem was to be solved…Nope!
Every time the car is driven on a long trip and the engine/transmission gets hot the smell returns and there are other problems as well. The car will shutter from start through the gear change to 2nd (it’s a manual 5-speed). It also has a “bumping” sound coming from the from the front wheel area during a sharp turn at low speeds, again only after a long trip.
I am clueless to what the issue could be and my dealership/mechanic cannot determine the cause either because of the necessary drive time to get the car to present the issues.
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I have a 2.4 Petrol, 16 valve engine in my Santa Fe which produces a rattle on startup when cold. When warm it starts normally. Oil and filter change makes no difference. Timing belt changed 40K ago. No other effects felt with regard to power or noise once initial noise/rattle has stopped after 2 to 4 seconds.
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I'm over at my sisters and she is complaining that her ride height adjustment does not work. She needs to use it for the car to clear the end of her garage (there is a small ledge at the end) I hop in and push the button... nothing happens, nothing in the infotainment or MFA. I'm wondering if the switch is not making contact? Or could it have something to due with the not enough air pressure? I think I'll try to put it in "jack" mode, maybe that will reset it. Anything else I should try? I guess I'll drive it in to work for her (which is normally fun for both us, she likes to drive my R32 and I love driving the Phaeton )
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Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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I am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
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Our 1994 Suburu Legacy runs on Petrol or LPG. For some unknown reason, there is a strong petrol smell in the car. When this happens, the car will eventually stop and the engine stops. There is power, but the engine will not start. Several minutes and many attempts later later, it starts. What may be happening?
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The other day I saw this message (or something similar) in the instrument cluster display for the first time. I was parked, car unladen, engine not running, parking brake on, facing somewhat uphill, when I attempted to change to the higher ride height.
The Handbook doesn't refer to conditions for ride height adjustments.
I'm pretty confident my batteries are fine. I attributed the reluctance to the fact that the car was pointing uphill, though on reflection may that not be exactly a time when you do need to change ride height?
A few minutes later, driving on the level, the ride height adjusted perfectly well, and it has done so since whether moving or at rest.
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It all started after I refueled at Mobil after a rainstorm a month ago. Could be coincidence, but right after that the car started jerking wildly and making a howling wind noise from the front. Thought it was the transmission. Brought to Lexus dealership, they told me nothing was wrong as I had low mileage on the car. There are NO Check Engine lights on the dashboard. Car "quieted down" after that, but the noise remains EXCEPT at high speed when it's quiet.
In addition to that, the jerking / misfiring continues at stops, reversing, and slower speeds on occasion only.
I tried Techron FI cleaner, but it has not made a difference. Filled up several times since then.
What's wrong?
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I just bought a very clean black '03 GTI and love it, but the car feels like it is beating itself to death every time I hit a bump, or crack in the road. It seems a new rattle or squeak pops up with each hit and I was wondering if there is anything to calm the harshness out a bit? I don't mind a hard ride, but I wonder if the car does!
It is completely stock, so still has the 18 wheels with BFG G-Force tires and stock suspension. Looking for suggestions on tire/wheel changes or shock upgrades to smooth the harshness? I don't do road courses or track days, so the handling can suffer in exchange for a bit of smoothness. I don't want to alter it too much away from stock (other than, say, shocks) so I won't be looking for full suspension changes.
The only other odd things are the interior fan will slow way down when first accelerating away and I've noticed a bit of engine hesitation on light throttle, usually second gear around 2.5k rpm. A firmer application of go pedal keeps it from happening, but sometimes I just want to be able to putt and not zoom.
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I have a sc430 and I had to change the Ecu, I've had it mapped so the keys all match and now it wants to start but it just doesn't seem to want to kick in , it turns over then just shuts down, there is a smell of petrol so I'm assuming its getting trough , I just wondered if there is any other reason for it not to start ...
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I went to look at a 2009 GS450h today. Great car and looking to buy but have two questions:
Firstly, when I sat in and pressed the Power button the car started on petrol, not electric power, which I wasn't expecting as i understood the 450H always starts on battery. Am i right or getting mixed up?
Secondly, and maybe linked to the above, when I looked in the boot (trunk?) the cover was off the small battery located on the lh side. I suspect they may have been using a booster pack to get the car going (as car dealers often do) but isn't this a big no no for the 450H.
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I have Hyndai accent Sep-2009 executive model. I have fitted normal CNG kit in my car. I ran it very smoothly for 6 months. Now my car is missing when I am running on petrol but running fine with CNG. If I am removing the battery cable and leave it 4-5 minutes its running fine for 2-10 days, after 7-10 days I am getting the same issue and doing the same procedure for solution.
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