Got in the car today and moved the gear selector into the manual shift mode. Usually there is no play forwards or backwards. Today there was about 3/8 of an inch travel forward before the spring tension started. I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the console latch replaced but was wondering why encountered this anomaly in the shift mechanism?
View 2 RepliesI just purchased (yesterday) a 98 VW Passat. THe previous owner said the sunroof would go up and down but not backwards and forwards. It looks like he worked on it because the headliner is filthy but to what extent I do not know. I want to get the headliner replaced to fix the sunroof. I've checked it, and it does go up and down. But the switch seems to be really loose in it's operation.
View 5 RepliesWhen I park my car and shift the selector into "P" the car will not allow me to remove the key until I jiggle the selector. I get a "please shift the selector into P"
After it's jiggled it unlocks, and I can then remove the key. I would prefer to fix it myself, rather than take it to the dealership.
Driving home today I was cruising along hwy about 50mph. I threw the shifter over to the manual mode and noticed immediately that it must put it into a lower gear than I was in when I was in automatic bc the rpm jumped up a little higher. I think it put me in 4th or 5th?? I put it back in auto mode and rpms went back to normal. I'm guessing it's the normal way it operates?
View 4 RepliesFix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
In my 2004 Camry the lights for the gear shift selector and fan speed and temperature dial are out. Is this a common light source or fuse that controls these lights?
View 1 RepliesI have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
I was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
View 3 RepliesMy 1997 Saturn SL2 with 5 speed manual transmission won't shift into first or second gear. When I shift into the location where first would be the car is in third gear. It shifts into 4th, 5th and reverse just fine, though the shifter is in the wrong position for those gears. I can wiggle the shifter in neutral and get it to move into the position where 5th and reverse are normally found, but it is stiff and makes a clunking noise when I move the shifter over to the far right side.
I have removed the center console and the bushing appears to be intact. Both cables are in their proper positions inside the vehicle and at the engine. One of the cables (the top one in the engine) has some wear and tear on the boot, but does not appear to be binding. Other than the stiffness and the clunking noise, the shifter seems to be working fine too.
1993 Geo Prizm with some odd 275,000 miles on it. Was at a stop sign, in first gear, and gave the car some gas. Very quickly it jumped out of first gear and stopped moving abruptly. Tried to get it back in first gear and it just stayed in neutral. Had to push it to the side of the road. Tried putting it in any gear and it wouldn't go. Then tried to have the car running in neutral and let up on the clutch and as soon as I started letting up on the clutch, something (like metal) started grinding. Pushing the clutch it (in neutral) stops the grinding. So, do I need a new clutch? New transmission?
View 11 RepliesMy 1985 BMW 635, standard transmission suddenly developed shifting problem. It will not shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th gear. It will shift into reverse,2nd and 4th gear. The car is not driven on any frequent schedule, infrequently. I can't remember the last time the transmission oil was changed.There has not been any mechanical distress,grinding of gears,etc. you just cant engage those gears. They all are moving the shifter from neutral to a up position. Is it possible that sludge could be blocking the movement of the synchronize r?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
I just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
View 7 RepliesWhile driving in either D or S mode, the transmission jerks in 3rd gear changing into 4th and then its fine. but it always happens in 3rd. The jerks are very very quick.
My car is 4.2L 2004 V8 (6 speed) and it has 30,000 miles on it.
2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
View 1 RepliesThis 04 phaeton I am working on will not shift into gear. It physically moves to any gear but does not shift. First guess was that the fluid level was low. I checked and added 1qt of fluid at 38deg C. Transmission will not shift into gear. I let the fluid get to 58degC and still same. Checked codes and god p0762 Reverse gear incorrect ratio. I put it in drive or reverse and rev the car to 4000rpm and the wheels do not turn. I am guessing it needs a transmission.
View 10 RepliesShould we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
Whenever I press the Air flow Selector button on the manual a/c controls on my 2003 Camry, the radio goes static, why does it do this and can I fix it?
View 3 RepliesI have had my Phaeton for 5 years, and every time I start it, the Depress Foot Brake light (amber) next to the R on gear shift always flashed. I assumed it did to tell me to press on the brake to shift gear. Well, two days ago I could not get my car started. Had to get a tow to VW dealer (48 miles) because a jump start did not work. After I checked in with ticket writer, he went to my car and (yeah, guess what?) inserted the key and started it. He called me out to the delivery spot to show me the light. He said it is not supposed to flash, but comes on steady. Bottom line is, I drove it home with no charge to me (except for tow job), and today I went out and again it would not start.
It was too late to get it towed. I was told by ticket writer that perhaps I had something slip down into the gear area, which might interfere with a sensor. Is there something else I should look for? By the way, a true confession, the night before the first trouble, I was curious and inserted my key into the flashlight hole to check on its depth to see if it does charge the flashlight, and when doing so, it caused a spark (I know, that was STUPID!). Could this have caused my starting problems? When I insert key to start, I get the message Move Gear Shift to P/N position.