Phaeton :: Front Windshield Not Supposed To Fog Up?
May 17, 2007
Maybe I'm mistaken, but I thought I heard someplace that the climate system is supposed to be so advanced on the car, that the windshield and the windows shouldn't fog up. If it is true, I was able to beat the system tonight.I made the windshield and the front windows fog up.
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How to replace the windshield washer nozzle? If it makes a difference it's the driver side one. It's clogged and I'd like to try and soak it in some stuff to dissolve the clog and/or replace it myself. The dealer was going to charge me ~$150 to do this and trying to see if I can do it myself.
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I've been thinking about leaving the wipers in "service" position overnight when it's snowing or freezing rain. I'm wondering if I can go and start the engine and get the defroster going - or - will the wipers try to go back to their "parked" position as soon as I turn on the ignition? Not a fun thing if they are frozen to the glass...
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Today I was filling the Windshield Washer container and all of the liquid went directly to the floor, that means something is leaking, but I haven't had any warning symbol in the console neither the VAG-COM system, is this a common problem ?, is it too hard to fix it ?, I will assume it should be covered by the CPO warranty ?
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So, I was over rearranging some stuff at the self-storage unit the other day and was getting warm, so I took off my coat, with the Treg keys in the pocket, and tossed it through the open driver's side window. Inadvertently pressed up against the door lock button in the handle and guess what....the doors locked, contrary to what is supposed to happen, or not happen that is, that being that the doors are not supposed to lock with the button when the keys are in the car! Good thing the window was down!
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Had a freeze, I went out to drive our Phaeton. Started the car and went to run the windshield wipers to clear the windshield, they were frozen. when I got them unfrozen they would not work and still do not work. It's been about three weeks. I checked the fuses, but I don't think that is the problem. Is there a reset button or did I burn out the wiper motors?
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I have the '05 V8.
The crack seems to originate at the lower right corner of the rear view mirror assembly contact point and spreads out in four opposing directions including two to the top edge of the glass. I could find zero chips on the outside of the glass at the nexus point of the crack. I also did not get hit in the windshield while driving -- not that I noticed anyway.
We went to the opera at night drove it home and noticed no damage and parked in the garage. The next day I went to the garage and noticed the crack (the cracks are about 8 inches long or so). The garage was very hot.
Is it POSSIBLE, and are there any reports of this happening, that the heat or something else caused the rearview mirror assembly to torque and crack the windshield or am I dreaming that I can blame VW and I just must have missed the crack when I drove home and it happened some other way.
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My 2004 Phaeton has apparently developed a leak with the windshield washer fluid resivoir. Last week the check light came on for low washer fluid. I filled it and now a week later it's on again.
Is there anything in particular that I need to check? I thought I recalled reading about an issue concerning this but I've not found it.
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2010 prius III. Just got it about a month ago and I've noticed that when I go to close the hatch, it slams pretty hard. I feel like the struts will hold up the hatch to about 2/3 of the way down then it just drops really hard and slams shut while rattling the spoiler so hard I feel like it's going to fall off. Is this normal, or should I look into maybe replacing the struts?
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I have a 2002 Passat that is only blowing cold air when it is supposed to be heat. I have checked the following items:
1. Both heater hoses are hot at the heater core which would indicate that the core is not restricted.
2. Air has been bled at the heater core and the antifreeze is at the correct level.
3. Car thermostat is operating correctly and maintains a steady 190 to 195 degrees.
4. When temperature control lever is moved from "cold" to "hot" the air noise definitely changes like a damper is moving but there is no change in air temperature. This is a manual control with cables (not digital read-out).
From what I have read so far I am convinced that there is a problem with the blend door but referring you back to #4 (air noise change) I believe that the cable is moving the damper. Can the blend door be accessed on this car without removing the center console? Can it be accessed through the glove box area?
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At some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
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Just had a question about my 00 F250 7.3. I recently have noticed that my tachometer needle will not always move the way its supposed to. Sometimes it will sit at zero until I drive it for a min then all of a sudden pops up to where its supposed to be. I also noticed today that while i was driving it just dropped to zero for a second or two then back up to where it was supposed to be again.
When it does this there is no drivability issues with it or idle issues what so ever. Which is strange to me and I cannot seem to put my finger on what could be causing the issue. As I have searched online for a while to no avail as most of the other issues include drivability and idle issues. Also not that it matters but I have recently replace the cps sensor with a new one OEM of course but i don't think that has anything to do with this problem.
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I understand how the waste gate is supposed to work at high rpms / boost.
I believe that as long as I keep the max boost down, that I can run with the waste gate plugged in order to goose the power a little in the 2000-28000 RPM range. Since the truck is stock and there's no intention of running higher RPMs, it seems like plugging the waste gate is a good idea. I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something.
It appears that the wast gate also opens when at idle and possibly when you let off the throttle. Are these important functions of the waste gate as well?
Here's a chart showing waste gate operation...
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No matter what I do the front windshield keeps fogging up? I have to run the wipers all the time,if I stop them I cant see at all.What to do to get clear windshield? granted it has been very humid in new York lately.
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Last night my front driver side windshield wiper malfunctioned - it was operating normally then 'jumped' off of the windshield and stayed in a rested position draped over the driver's side mirror. When placed anywhere on the windshield it doesn't function.
Would this be a problem with the linkage? The passenger wiper operates normally.
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Found that OEM new wipers were not completely squeegee-ing the windshield. i.e. getting small patches of wet/unwiped areas. Seems like it's skimming some areas instead of actually wiping.
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Wife said the front windshield wipers were noisy, after a bothersome back-and-forth, she finally indicated they were "chattering." Hindsight, it would have been better for me to just drive it and see for myself.
Anyway, bought new blades (not just the refills) and installed them last night. Learning from my mistakes, I drove the car operated the wipers and now there is a horrible squeak. BUT:
It seems as if it is coming from the area of the actual wiper assembly and not from the wiper -- you know from underneath the black plastic cap that covers the end of the passenger side wiper -- pix below.
Anyway, before I get into to this....I assume I can pry off the black plastic cap, but is there any "user serviceable parts" under there that might be causing this noise?
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The front windshield washer is not working. I can hear the pump running but no fluid comes out. The rear washer works fine.
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Noticed in the last 3 days that my front windshield washers aren't working, but the rear one is. I figured that maybe the nozzles were just frozen up, but opened the hood tonight when I got home and shut the engine off but with the key in "Run" and tried the wiper switch....can't even hear the pump come on, but I can with the rear wiper.
Are there TWO pumps on the Accent hatchback? One for the rear wiper and one for the fronts? Is it possible one of my pumps is bad? I haven't checked the fuse...will do that in the morning, but I can't imagine it's a fuse as the front and rear washers would be on the same fuse I imagine...
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My new SANTA FE has merely covered 10000 km. The vehicle is running fine except a very irritating loud knocking noise from top of front windshield area. The noise is generated as soon as vehicle goes over a minor irregularity on road or even if you make a sharp right or left turn.
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Why is there a gap between the front and rear windshield with a recess behind? All kinds of crap get stuck in that gap and then it is impossible to clean out. I also have to wonder if that is part of the reason there is so much wind noise. It seems to me that perhaps it gives a cleaner appearance and it is indeed nice that I don't have to worry about unsightly deteriorating rubber seals as the car ages, but it is really difficult to clean that stuff out. Also, there is a gap where the bottom of the door window frame meets the window seal where the window comes out of the door. Stuff also gets stuck in there. I need to add tweezers to my car wash kit to get all of this out.
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