After having the car "plugged in", it appears that one of the intake manifold swirl flaps isn't always returning to it's lower stop (fault P1018). The mechanic suggested that the actuator arm may be caked in debris, and that cleaning it and manually working it a few times should fix the problem?
View 2 RepliesI recently had my front axles replaced and a week or two after I'm getting this code for level fault workshop. Do you think it could be something they did when they replaced the axles. I also had the secondary radiator replaced.
View 11 RepliesNoticed the vehicle was riding low on the passenger sign, and then received a fault code on the driver's screen "Level Fault Workshop" what is this? I can't find in the faq section...
View 9 RepliesSo my car wouldn't start after work. I went and replaced the starter battery and no problems. I come home and won't start again. Both batteries are good but now I get a message, system fault workshop vw phaeton And key pic comes on screen.
View 11 RepliesI have 2004 V8 Phaeton ,the message LEVEL FAULT WORKSHOP. keeps appearing ,then disappearing, sometimes it will stay until the car is turned off,. When it comes some times even on long highway journeys I wont see it at all!. When it comes on nothing seems to change.
View 6 RepliesI was queuing for the Dartford Bridge yesterday, and had been about 20 minutes in crawling traffic, when for the first time ever the DPF indicator came up on the dashboard with a message to check the manual. Then moments later I got the engine fault, workshop alarm which was quite insistent. Reaching the tolls I pulled away and then 'booted' it for a while in sport mode and both indicators disappeared...so I thought I had cleared the problem.
I reached work without incident, but then when I came to restart the car later in the morning, I had the engine fault come up again with a very insistent chime. I phoned my dealer and took it in...the DPF indicator coming up again while in traffic on the way there. The fault has been diagnosed as a faulty diesel particulate sensor, which is now being changed on Monday when the part arrives.
I have a 2004 Phaeton which has been having multiple problems with error codes. I keep getting Level Fault Work Shop. When this code comes on the ABS and EPS also fail and can only be reset by restarting the car. My VW dealer is having significant trouble finding the problem. Thus are they have repalaced the batteries, and the control module for the ABS. I think an option could be the battery control module.
View 9 RepliesI have just had what I feel like is a big problem. It started raining tonight( I don't know if it's related) and I got back into my car, after putting the baby in the rear passenger seat, and started it up and the "System Fault Workshop" warning came on, with a warning symbol next to my tpms symbol that is shaped like a key, and the "car outline icon" in the center had the rear passenger door light blink open. I hope that made sense.
I tried to restart the car to see if it would go off, and it won't. The infotainment doesn't light up, and the blinkers don't work, and neither would the high beams. So the steering wheel lights/controls are dead. Also my keyless entry doesn't lock/unlock the car. I couldn't find anything in the manual, and the only online I could find that might be related is the following: " the actual issue is/are leaky seals on the front latch solenoids/actuators, period.
I just tried to go start the car again, and the alarm started going off. Then I started the car to try and stop the alarm, and it kept going off...Then I thought the battery might have something to do with it so I opened the trunk with the key since the button in the drivers door wouldn't open it, and the alarm when off when I manually opened the trunk.....What am I going to do now?
The rear seat footwell lights are on, and you can see a youtube video of the warning lights at: [URL] ...
Because the battery gauge in the dash showed the battery being completely dead with no charge, I tried to "jump" the car with another car using jumper cables hooked up to the battery in the trunk on the drivers side. Again the alarm went off when opening the trunk, and when starting the vehicle, and the battery gauge was still completely dead.
I've been getting this "system fault workshop!" error message popping up like crazy. Its got a picture of a key, and makes the audible beep when it appears. on a short drive to work, maybe 10 minutes, it will randomly come on and beep anywhere from 3-10 times during my drive. The car starts and drives perfectly fine. This has been happening for a little over a week now. I noticed one post about this before, but that owner seemed to have different symptoms as their car wouldn't start. I really would hate to bring it into the dealership, as I've just paid them a small fortune fixing different things to finally get down to the bottom of it to find out i needed new fuel pump modules.
View 3 RepliesOne of my issues is a "level fault workshop" message and abs/ esp lights that only appear once I put the car in gear and start moving.
The car does seem to raise and lower normally and there doesn't seem to lose height over night.
To check if it's a particular wheel height sensor, what controller should I scan in vcds? Nothing related to suspension came up in my full auto scan.
I did have an intermittent brake light switch code, could that generate the level fault?.
My 2004 Phaeton with a little over 100k miles on it has been giving me a problem with the air ride suspension. When starting the vehicle, a "Level Fault - Workshop" message is displayed on the instrument cluster, and the car has been slowly sinking as the air ride (I presume) slowly deflates. Around 10,000 miles ago, I had a problem with the suspension, but that time the car immediately and actively sank; this was solved by replacing the air ride computer (it is the B, not C-type). I've tried replacing the computer with another B-type computer, but to no avail. The local VW dealer and an independent import car garage have told me some things, and I would like to learn more about this problem and possible ways to try and solve it.
1. I have been told that no voltage is making it from the computer to the left front sensor. Dealer says its the computer, but could this possibly be the wiring harness or a bad connection? If so, how do I get into the wheel well in order to test this hypothesis? My best guess is it isn't the computer, as the car never actively sank (this happened when the original computer went bad).
2. I have also been told that the right rear sensor is bad. Is this a part I can replace with a modest amount of auto knowledge? I do my own oil, replace brake pads/rotors, etc. If so, any drawing/maintenance manual parts list available?
3. I have heard conflicting reports as to a freshly-ordered sensor being and not being compatible with the B-type computer. Dealer told me new sensors will only speak to a C-computer; independent garage told me new sensors will speak to my B computer. Who is correct?
From a few hours of internet browsing from the first instance and this second instance of failure, it seems this is a somewhat common issue with the 2004 Phaeton.
In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
My AC stopped working a few weeks back. The garage looked at it and noticed it had no refrigerant, the fault code stated this also. It was traced to the condenser which was replaced and the system regassed. The AC will still not work. The current fault code is 00716 Air Recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (v113) 005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting/Adaptation. That is the only fault code showing and cannot be reset.
There is no cold air at all. Could this fault be preventing the AC from working? What is odd is that the compressor seems to be running when you switch on AC as it shows up in the diagnostics as running with about 2nm of torque.
Just wondering what this could be.its giving me the 50 miles to 50mph max speed. Def tank is half full.truck runs fine.
View 2 RepliesI had a ford technician plug in and check my CEL. Says P246E, Bank 1 sensor 4, exhaust system fault. I am leaving for holidays in a couple of days but dealer to busy before I leave. Is this something that will leave a guy stranded on the side of the road? I've already been towed once...
View 5 RepliesLately I have been receiving this fault which looks like it maybe my suspension, but the fault says running gear workshop.
View 14 RepliesThe EPC light came on the the MFD read: Engine Fault Workshop! This happened once before for about a second, but today the car dropped to limp mode and would not recover. She had a flat bed take it to the dealer and they "reset the throttle" and it is okay now. Aside from running the adaption routine, I am clueless what this means. I will scan the codes tonight.
View 9 RepliesI have been getting the "Running Gear Fault Workshop!" message on my MFI almost every day for about a week now. To clear it, all I have to do is shut down and restart and it goes away for pretty much the rest of the day. Is this something that I should get into the shop ASAP? Or can it wait a month until my scheduled 20,000 mile service?
View 1 RepliesIt's Sunday afternoon and -20 degrees in northern Wisconsin. We are at the cabin after a nice weekend in the snow. I start the treg and the MFI has a yellow differential symbol. Displaying Status, the MFI says "System Fault" and "Workshop!" That doesn't sound good so I call 24 Hr assistance and they can send a tow truck 90 miles but that can't tell me what the warning means. Naturally, the Owner's lit says nothing about this warning.
View 9 RepliesAt the end of my first week of ownership, I encountered problems with the rear cabin light in my car not working properly - sometimes it came on when the doors were opened, and sometimes it did not. I mentioned it to the Phaeton technician at my dealership, and we agreed to just defer investigation and rectification until the car was due to come in for its first oil change.
After I finished putting the start button in, I ran a diagnostic scan on the car, and the problem with the rear cabin dome light was the only remaining fault code. So - I kind of figured "gee, this can't be rocket science to fix", and I removed the rear cabin light assembly from the roof of the car.
I had a close look at it, and found the cause of the problem pretty quickly. When the assembly was put together, the tiny black wire that carries power to the rear cabin interior light button became trapped between the large bus bar that serves as a ground for all the switches and some foam insulation that protects the circuit board from the ground bus bar. The entire assembly would have tested out just fine when it was manufactured, but over time, the vibration encountered in transporting the car from Germany to Canada, and the vibration caused when I drove the car around during my first week of ownership caused the bus bar to cut through the insulation on the wire - hence the short circuit. All I had to do to fix it was just poke the wire out from under the bus bar. Everything works great now.
The fault code that was generated - "Rear Interior Lamp Button - Short to Earth" was absolutely dead-on, and took me directly to the problem. I really doubt if I ever would have found this problem if the car did not have such a competent self-diagnostic system.
In the past few weeks I have seen an intermittent "Level Error-Workshop". However every suspension function has worked perfectly, and no height was lost even while sitting at the airport for a week.
How to track down the leak. I can see a tank pressure of about 13 PSI. Is that about right. I did a raise / lower while VCDS was connected and there was a pressure drop to about 11.7 PSI but no level error. What is the correct range of tank pressure settings?
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1122
Coding: 0005521
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2757057592F60B6
1 Fault Found:
01583 - Leak in System Detected
000 - - - Intermittent