Exhaust systems warning symbol that comes on if there is a Exhaust system problem. Yesterday when headed to lunch the warning symbol came on and it startled me as its a picture of an engine block. It was a solid symbol vs flashing. The Phaeton seems to be running well and the book does say get it in to be checked.
Mileage is 69,000
I have a Mazda Tribute, 2005, with clogged exhaust systems that make the EGR valves blow up. Definitely due to a problem with the exhaust system, but I can't find where it is. I've replaced one of the catalytic converters and checked the other, but it didn't work, my next guess is the muffler or the manifold. Engine occasionally misfiring due to a vacuum leak that prevented the intake manifold to provide even oxygen for full combustion. The extra gas when into the exhaust system a burnt up one of the cats and left a clog somewhere in the exhaust system. If is the other cat it's a $650 part.
View 6 RepliesMy exhaust system warning light came on this afternoon. Think the cars needs to be parked until I can get it to the dealer.
View 8 RepliesI have a warning light on dashboard and bleep saying "Workshop Exhaust" and showing orange engine icon.
This first happened when I bought the car in November 2014, then went off after about two days, but is becoming more frequent two or three times a month.
I travel about a mile and a half to work each day, and have a longer run usually once a month, I have been told to select 3rd gear and when warm to drive for perhaps 10 miles to clear any build up of emissions.
Yesterday my light went on for the exhaust warning. Does this mean I should now drive with a window open? And how serious can it be? Also, about 2 months ago I was told I need a serpentine belt. Would this have anything to do with the light coming on? You see, last time I wrote in here, I was told I needed new front brake pads and rotors. I was told from folks here that the dealer's quote was 2X what it should be, so I am hesitating to go back to same dealer.
View 24 RepliesEarlier today my exhaust system warning light came on and stayed on. I am due for a 5 hour road trip tomorrow. I have 65K miles.
View 2 RepliesSo i JUST got my timing belt replaced on my 2001 B5 Passat 4motion, took it in and got it done. Now when the tech was working on it he said that the car was slow cranking one day, and I have intermittantly seen the same thing before, but i have known for a while that I need a new battery, its old, and randomly have little power, but it has always worked once the car is started.
As soon as i picked the car up yesterday I got the "alternator workshop warning" and quickly the car started to act funny as systems lost enough power to not function correctly (abs light, brake light, etc). Now is there ANYTHING else this could be beside the alternator? fuses, wires, other faults, etc, etc.
I recently took my car in for service and complained of the exhaust clicking (very audible) after the car is off. This clicking can also be heard when the car is running too - it is not as prevalent though. The service advisor said she spoke with several technicians and they said this was normal. The reason they cited was the stainless steel exhaust system in the Phaeton. They also said that humidity will exacerbate the sound.
View 5 RepliesFrom time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.
90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.
If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.
After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.
This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.
Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.
I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.
So, I just hopped in my car ready to go to work, and my "exhaust" light came on. I drove it a block, and it seems very "jittery". I decided not to risk driving it, and am getting a lift with my wife.
View 5 RepliesI have V6 Tdi -08 and my car has developed a tiny leak on the right hand side exhaust manifold. The purchase price for a new manifold is not to expensive but I now wonder difficult it is to replace considering how tight it is in the engine bay. If the engine has to come out in order to have it replaced or repaired.
View 4 RepliesOne morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
I Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.
View 1 RepliesTwo weeks ago, my husband and I drove about 90 minutes to a nearby mountain for some snowshoeing. Everything with the car was fine, until we stopped (for about 5 minutes), after which the car BARELY started. When it was time to go home, the same thing happen, and the battery light was on (not the hybrid battery, but just the regular battery). Since the car was running, mostly, and it was Saturday afternoon, we decided to try to make it home. Since the battery wasn't charging, one by one, all the electrical systems shut down, starting with the wipers and ending with the fuel pump. We drifted to a stop on the side of the road.
AAA came and jumped us, which not only got us going but seemed to have solved the problem. The battery tested fine, and Honda ran tests on the car for 3 hours and couldn't find anything wrong. However, we're clearly nervous about taking the car out of town. There was a similar incident a couple months ago, but not nearly as severe - the batter started charging again on it's own after just a couple minutes.
I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
View 4 RepliesAfter having the car "plugged in", it appears that one of the intake manifold swirl flaps isn't always returning to it's lower stop (fault P1018). The mechanic suggested that the actuator arm may be caked in debris, and that cleaning it and manually working it a few times should fix the problem?
View 2 RepliesJust returned from dealer in rental car because my otherwise "perfect" car would not start after I came back from a shopping binge at my local Costco. Unlocked the car fine, put key in ignition, put foot on brake and cranked -Nothing. All lights are working on dash, windows operate, everything seems fine other than no start. Never experienced anything like it. No warning, no unusual activity. Dealer says it is either ignition switch or starter.
View 8 RepliesYesterday the dreaded "car too low" warning appeared. I got out, saw the front end was low and could hear (i think) the sound of air hissing. had it towed to the dealer and am cursing myself for no extended warranty. Sure hope it's only one strut (tow driver said both front sides were low) and that vw will pick up the tab for non failing struts and the controller.
View 24 RepliesSo yesterday I took out the monsoon head unit and replaced it with a kenwood kdc-348u single din, but once the wiring harness is plugged into the stereo all my power windows and everything stops working. What could be the problem, wrong wiring harness?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 signal rear wheels Ford tow package. After market options Bully dog power put and outlook controller.
Next the problems When they started and order pleas stay with me.
I purchased a goose neck horse trailer and after hooking it up, plugin in the tight and break round plug I found that the trailer lights did not work. I inspected the plug on my truck I found that the wires were cut next to the plug so I purchased a after market plug and swapped the two out and the lights worked. Excepted the right turn signal did not work.
I thought I was good and then the problems started during the six hour trip home at night my turn lights and break lights ceased to work on my truck and trailer the running lights and head lights work on both. After I returned home I looked for shorts and bad fuses I never found any.
After that I started to accumulate problems.
The Outlook controller would occasionally loose signal and turn off and on and the door ajar is on all the time. After that the I had the oil filter fail and pieces of it went through the IPR screen causing the IPR to fail I know its unrelated but it is. After having a no start condition and replacing the IPR all my gauges would go peg to peg when trying to start. I put a long hard charge on the batteries and got them to a full charge of 12.6CV and had no problem starting any more. I did find at the time I hooked up the charger is that one of the batteries blew off one of the cell covers.
But what happened next.
The truck lost full electrical systems as in the 4x4 switch quit working, the power locks quit working, door chimes quit, the transmission would not shift into overdrive and the tow light flash and now the Outlook Controller flashes on and off so bad I can hardly get the codes off it. The auto headlight quit.
Most of the things I could reset by un plugging fuses and relays to get them to work.
OK the now, I changed the batteries today with new ones and found out the old ones were only at 75% and that fixed some of the problems. The problems I still have is the transmission, turn signals, break lights and Outlook flashing on and off. By the way the Outlook is plugged in the systems plug under the dash.
These are my codes
P0360 ignition coil j primary (I do not know what this is or where I can find it.)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient (Is this the EGR cooler I did a EGR Delete by puting freeze plugs in both ends)
P0603 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error ( I have no clue about this, this started when I lost the IPR durring all that cranking.)