Phaeton :: Erroneous Brake Pad Wear Light - Nothing Jammed Between Pad And Rotor
Jun 10, 2009
I am receiving an erroneous warning message about pad wear. I replaced pads and rotors (OEM) about 10K miles ago. I pulled both front wheels. The pads and rotors look great, as expected, and the sensors appear to fine as well, in place, wires all look good, etc.. Nothing was jammed between the pad and the rotor, no metal was touching the rotor, etc. My understanding is that there are no sensors on the rear, so that shouldn't be causing any issues.
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recently I replaced the front rotors and pads on my 02 Saturn SL2. I did this because there was a grinding sound coming from the front left wheel well and I had noticed a band around the rotor that looked gouged. All in all, about 30 minutes of work, following the Hanes manual. In the course of disassembling the front left caliper, I realized that the cause of the gouge in the rotor was from one of the tensioning clips on the caliper bracket. One of the flaps on the clip had bent back and was causing both the grinding sound and the gouge in the rotor. So naturally, I replaced all the tensioning clips as well. After putting everything back together, I took the car on a quick test drive around the block. The noise, while lessened, was still present. Furthermore, after I got to work this morning, I noticed that that there is the start of the same wear pattern on my brand new rotor.
What could be causing this problem to reassert itself?
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I had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
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Fixing a jammed headlight washer cover? I know the washer itself works because I see washer fluid on the ground and I can hear the motor whirling. Also when I access the maintenance item on the infotainment center, the left washer cover pops out, but not the right one.
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97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
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I'm in the process of changing pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. I've done all brakes and rotors, except that I'm stuck on the driver rear. The driver rear rotor won't come off!
Here's what I've done so far: I've used the metric jack bolts (I didn't buy the long ones) and that freed up some rust, with pb blaster. Now, the rotor comes out a bit, and I'm able to move it around, and the rotor comes forward a little bit towards me. It's so wobblily that it seems like it is about to come out. The rotor isn't solid stuck on, like most threads I've read.
While hammering, I think a piece of hardware of the parking brake fell down on the ground. Do u think that the parking brake is not allowing the rotor to come off? If so, I was reading online that there is some way to release the parking brake via a hole though the rotor, but I'm really not familiar with this. I'm not even sure if it's the parking brake that's not allowing the rotor to come off.
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Replace front brake pads, rotors, and sensors. the front brake pad sensor was touching the rotor. Car still has brake pad lite on. Replace front sensors again just in case one was defective. Replace rear sensors, still lite is on.
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I recently changed the rear pads/rotors on a 07. the dealer said it needed new pads because I guess the heard a light grinding noise but I did not think they looked at it. I believe the pads/rotors still had 10K miles left on them. The car has 40K miles on it.
Anyhow, I noticed the old pads had some life to them, but uneven wear in some cases. Looked like the classic issue with brake pad/caliper design tolerance error.
I did grind down the pad holder a bit so they can slide on the caliper easily without getting stuck and resulting in uneven wear.
After the new pads/rotor, the rear right appears to be making the same light muffled grinding sound when you apply the brake.
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Doing a rear brake job on my 2008 elantra. Left went fine. However, the right rotor is stuck on the parking brake. It is loose, but held on to the springs of the parking brake.
How do you back off the parking brake? Also, how do you remove the parking brake cable?
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I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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My brake wear sensor keeps going off even though my brake pads are fine. I guess there is a short in the line somewhere. I know you can loop the indicator at the brake pad but if I have a short in the line this will not work I have had someone look for the short but after a couple hundred dollars they were not successful. Can you have the dealer turn off this indicator in the computer so it no longer reports the status of your brake pads?
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I am trying to remove the rear rotor of a 2007 Camry, but it appears to be stuck on the parking brake. The parking brake is not engaged, but the pads are firmly pressed against the rotor (rotor was loosen from hub assembly using bolts through the two threaded holes).
I have removed the rubber plug and attempted to turn the star adjuster, but it doesn't seem to move in either direction. Also, the adjuster should rotate away from you to tighten the brake and toward you to loosen, correct?
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
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2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
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Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
[URL]
3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
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On a 2000 Passat I have I could not get the brake pad wear icon to go away. I jumpered the wires at the plugs up near the wheel well behind the grommet and that did nothing. I can't imagine that the wires behind the body are broken/frayed as they are not exposed to anything that would cause them to break/fray.
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I noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
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I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
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2005 I4 SE Camry USA built. Got a squeak from the rears the other day and pulled the tires to check. Inside pads (ones against the caliper cylinder) on both rear wheels were at the metal but the outside pads were still not down to the little stripe down the middle of the pads, let alone the wear indicator clip. I pulled slide pins and there were not stuck. The calipers retracted very easily, so not gunked up or dragging. I ordered a new hardware kit with the new dust boots and rubber slide pin parts. I am using good Permatex disc brake grease. I am going to have to have the rotors turned, but aside from replacing the rubber parts the only other thing I can think of is slide pin replacement.
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I just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
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