Phaeton :: Engine Starting Intermittently On First Attempt (2004 V6)
Sep 6, 2011
Recently however, I have had a problem starting it up on the 1st attempt. I would say that at least a third of the time the engine starts and then immediately cuts out, with the battery light coming on. On the occasions that the engine stays on, it feels as if it might just cut out in the first couple of minutes. It normally starts, and stays on, on the 2nd attempt of starting. I suspect it may just be that my battery is just coming to the end of it's useful life.
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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The past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
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Subaru Impreza 2004 2.5 TS170,000 km
For a couple of months now and every few days, my car turns over nicely but chokes. I can keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal as lightly as possible without letting the engine stop or rev too high, and after about 15 seconds it stays on on its own. When it's running it runs very smoothly...no knocking or shuddering or poor idling at lights.
So there’s obviously a gas delivery problem at startup. I don’t know if I can but I would love to rule out the fuel pump since it's only at startup (fuel filter is new, battery is new, and sensors have been checked, even during a failure to start scenario) and it runs so well when driving. Also, it won’t start randomly, regardless of temperature, cold start or not, incline, etc. I read that a fuse can have intermittent problems but again it seems to me that it should be properly intermittent, not just at startup. Which leaves the relay and wires.
Now thinking about wiring, a few years ago I noticed I could no longer leave my highbeams on. I could hold the lever and make them stay on, but pushing the lever into the on position no longer works. Also, recently and only once, on a -26 C day, the air compressor was dead when I started the car. After stopping and starting for a half an hour I noticed that it had come back on. Does this sound like it could be connected? Where do I even start to diagnose this starting problem?
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I have a 2004 Prius with 108,000 miles on it. The MFD is starting to spaz out and work intermittently. It just started to stop working, would be listening to some music and all the sudden would die, no temp, no climate control, no avg mpg, no miles driven, no battery info, the base screen would be there without any data. So its sometimes there when I start the car and sometimes not, sometimes it dies and others it cames back. I called my local Toyota dealer they suggested I needed to replace the Multi-Function-Display with a refurb. I am wondering if there might even be a way to fix the glitch in my current unit...
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This is in town driving. Highway mileage is much better but still bad. I checked O2 sensor voltage and it reads a constant 3.3 volts. I believe the O2 sensor is bad but not quite sure. What the correct voltage should be both cold and warmed up to operating temp? Also can the O2 sensor alone cause such high mileage? Car only starts on second cranking attempt.
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This car has been great in terms of reliability and no leaks (read not a drop) anywhere.
Today it has decided to quit without notice.
Turn the ignition and it appears to be turning off/on rapidly sort of like maybe it's shorting or something. Dash lights go off/on as this occurs. No attempt to start... as you hold the key on start dash lights the rapid on/oof action described above.
Where I should start troubleshooting this thing??
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I was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
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I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
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I have a 04 V8 Automatic. In the last few days, only once in a while, with no repeating pattern, it has had trouble starting. The starter cycles but the engine do not turn over.
Battery: I have reviewed the battery charge by checking the voltage on the dash meter before attempting to start and it is consistently over 12V and at 14V when it is running. Usually after multiple attempts it starts or in some cases if I wait and come back it starts. I have never had to jump it. Based in this I ruled out the battery since - if it was drained or not holding its charge I should not have been able to start it - correct?
Items draining battery: I read many posts indicating problems with items such as the compass draining the battery after the vehicle is shut off. I do not think this is the issue either since the battery is holding its charge.
Fuel Pump: I am thinking it is the fuel pump not properly priming when I open the door. I tried to test this by opening the door, listening for the pump priming then attempting to start it. It started whether or not I heard the pump prime. Should the pump prime every time after the engine is shut off? Is this a valid test or does the pump only prime after driving? Is there a better way to validate if it is the pump? Would this show up in the error codes? (I do not have a way to check the codes other than taking it to the dealer)
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I have a little problem with my bi xenon's. When my headlights are on and i accelerate they some times flicker on and off for a split second , or then go off completely and come back on or they become brighter than usual for a brief moment.
I was going to look at it my self and check for loose connections but am a little busy for removing the headlights and checking the ballasts at the moment, it has been on my "to do list " for several weeks and i am no closer. As you can imagine it is very annoying and potentially very dangerous if a motorist waiting to pull out from a junction takes my flickering light to be and invitation to pull out.
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My 2004 Camy XLE 4 cyl has developed an intermittent problem. So far this has only happened after the car has sat in the sun at my office for the day and the temp is around 90. When I begin to take off the transmission disengages intermittently and the engine light comes on. After a couple of miles the problem stops, but the engine light stays on. Usually the light goes off the next day.
I have had the car to dealer. First time reset code P0500 and problem returned. Second time, dealer found update for engine control module. "performed to reflash ECM per TSB 0072-04.
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My check engine light comes on intermittently, fuel consumption normal. I have not had any noticeable performance issues. I took it to O'Rielly's for a scan but they could not establish a connection to get a readout. Is there a special scan tool needed? The on board Lan Monitor shows EMV codes below, are they meaningful in any way?
Code Sub-code
01-DC 190-38-5
01-D5 190-52-F
01-D8 190-35-1
01-DB 190-11-F
01-DB 110-21-2
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Periodically my 1994 Toyota Corolla 5-speed manual will not start. Other times it seems to hesitate before starting. The rest of the time it starts fine.
When it does not start: I turn the key, and hear the fuel pump relay click, and hear the fuel pump on the gas tank energize, but the car does not try to crank. I do not know if the starter solenoid is engaging at this time, as I could not listen for it while in the car. When I did try to listen for it while under the hood with someone else starting the car, it actually started (did not exhibit the issue)
When it hesitates before starting: However, sometimes, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump energize, after about 1-1/2 seconds of holding the key, it does start.
When it does start it sounds normal, not like a low battery. The battery is new. I had the charging system checked at Advance Auto and they said the battery was good as was the alternator and starter. Plenty of cranking amps.
I disconnected the main wire on the starter motor and cleaned it with a wire brush. I also cleaned up the battery terminals.
I did find that the switch on the clutch pedal that allows the car to start when pressed has some fluid leaking on it (clutch fluid I think). Could that be causing the intermittent starting issue? If so, can I just clean it with WD-40 or something like that?
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After just about 20min on the highway, the engine temperature has reached 115 C to 120 C that's about 230F to 250F. Also the oil temp was unusual high. After 20min I filled up a little oil and tried to check the coolant water. Unfortunately the time I took to let the cool down the engine was not enough so some coolant water spilled out of the car. So I can't say, whether there was enough water or not. Afterwords, the engine temperature still wasn't doing well at all. The oil temp was OK.
There is currently also coming a strange razing load noise from the front of the engine. The engine is a V8, 2004
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I've been hearing a loud screech on occasion when starting the engine. For a while, I was not able to isolate it and thought it may have been the HVAC fan bearing or something, because it sounded internal. It hasn't happened overtime, but often enough. The other day, the door was open when I hit the starter and it's loud as H3!!. It'd without a doubt external and seems to taper of rather quickly after the engine starts. At this time, I'm pretty sure it's the starter, but may be belt tensioner.
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I have a 2004 Accent GS. It is an automatic. I have had it for almost a year.
In early November, the check engine light came on when the temperature dropped drastically and it went off when it warmed up a bit about 3 days later. Since then it seems to come on randomly and stay on for a few days then go off (usually around once-twice a month). Then in late December I noticed that the car had trouble starting after I refueled it, the first two times I though it was because I had let the fuel get down too much. Now every time I fuel up it does this. But just the first time turning on the car and no other time after that.
The check engine light had not come on again for almost a month, and then about a week ago it came on again. I double checked all the fluids and the gas cap but that's about as far as my knowledge of cars goes. When the light has come on I have not really noticed any handling differences. However since I need to put the car through an inspection very soon it is now concerning me a bit more. What could be causing the check engine light to go on and off?
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turn the key sometimes- nothing. sometimes 5 seconds, the longest was 35 minutes always starts, but you never know when. it's not battery, starter or solenoid. it's an automatic, 90k miles Moving the shifter does nothing.
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2006 Toyota tundra starting problem only intermittently, id say about half the time recently it does this. Ill go to crank my truck, turn the key over and it makes a loud CLICK/thud under the hood. Lights go dim, clock shuts off etc. Turn the key off and back on, CLICK. I have to repeat this 3-4 times before starting sometimes. And once or twice the starter would turn over for 3-4 seconds before finally firing up. Ive check the battery and alternator at the local auto zone and a local dealership, both checked out fine. The starter is under the intake manifold. I have checked grounds/connections etc but dont see problem.
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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My check engine light came on over the weekend. It was not blinking so I am hoping for just a sensor fault or some other inexpensive issue. I am trying to remain hopeful but after having to replace 2 coils and both catalytic converters about 40K miles ago I am really nervous...
I took the car to the shop this morning for diags but what might be causing the problem? It is a 2004 V8 with about 142K miles.
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