I've noticed this more on the Phaeton than the last two cars I have owned. When the car is warm and I arrive at my destination and turn the engine off, the engine makes a lot of little pings and pangs for several minutes. Don't know how better to describe the sound. Does this mean anything? Normal?
View 6 RepliesExperienced a noisy blower from the engine bay when turning on the A/C? It's kinda a squeaky noise. But when I turn off the A/C, just the fan...it doesn't sound as loud.
View 4 RepliesWhen I have my car on the garage for 10 of 15 minutes, playing with it, I normally start the car so I don't drain the battery but I noticed, after 5 minutes or so, the engine does this sound, why. There is no fault on the engine and I don't feel anything weird when driving.
View 9 RepliesMy 2008 jeep wrangler x 6 cyl pings upon acceleration. 62000 miles.
View 6 RepliesThe engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 Touareg. I think I got a great deal.
I have noticed the noisy windshield wipers, the condensation on the windshield, minor binding problems when turning, and some hesitation/jumpiness in the throttle. I talked to a dealer today and they said if I had a list of things to fix, they could do it in a day.
The electric motor which adjusts the steering wheel position has begun to "rumble"--When I enter the car (keyless entry) and the wheel begins to assume it's pre-set position, a loud grumbling noise occurs. If I then use the switch to readjust the position, I again hear the noise. Is there a way to lubricate the steering wheel (WD-40?) without causing other problems?
View 1 RepliesHad the Buick dealer perform a flush on the rear diff with a speical lubricant to refill and it worked for awile. There only recommdation was to replace the rear, which is cost prohibitve. This noise is a whing/moaning noise when turning sharp, like into driveways, streets and parking places, only when the weather and vehicle are warm. Doesnt' seem to effect any operation, the noise has not gotton louder. Any fixes known? I may start looking for a used rear asm, but I don't want to get the same problem, as Ive heard this is common for GMs AWD systems.
View 1 RepliesThree things happened with my Phaeton today.
First, when I pulled out of the driveway, there was an "achy" should as I turned the steering wheel. I sound like it coming from under the hood in the area of the steering mechanisms. I am hoping it just might be low power steering fluid?
Second, my engine warning light (amber) came on after going through a car wash. Everything seems to run fine, so I plan to just wait and see if it turns itself off again.
Last - and only as an irritation - I noted that my trip odometer on the front dash display won't reset when I go into the console "trip data" and press reset. Am I doing something wrong?
Got some road noise going on always noisy while driving straight or turning to the right. If I take a turn at speed on the highway to the left the noise stops. Sounds normal, once I straighten out the noise returns. So my thoughts are clearly drivers side, but not 100% sure where to start my search. Wheel hub is my first thought, is there anything i can do to check if the hub is good since they are sealed?
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
Sometimes when I get in the car the infotainment screen dims itself after a few minutes so that the information is barely visible. It usually comes back to life after about ten minutes. The manual mentions dimming the screen but doesn't elaborate. Is there a dimming switch for that screen?
View 3 RepliesHave 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
Today I had been driving about ten minutes when I got a "Check Gas Cap" warning, inclusive of beep and appropriate icon. Pulled over, switched off but left key in (this is equivalent to a warm boot in my experience), opened gas cap and closed again (it was fine). Turned engine on, got same message, remained on until destination (approximately 20 minute drive). Parked and locked car for approximately 2 hours (equivalent to a cold boot). When I turned on the engine again, the message was gone, and remained off for the rest of the day.
The car had been sitting unused in a heated garage for a little over two weeks, and the weather today was nice, sunny, a few degrees above freezing.
In my view, it clearly was not related to the classic "fuel cap not tight enough" problem of modern cars: for one, I had not just refueled (in fact, I have a little over half a tank). Also, I always tighten the cap until I hear at least a few clicks. SO I wonder if it might be an early warning that my maintenance battery is getting weak, i.e. spurious error message triggered by low voltage?
So yesterday car did not start after 15 min from turning off .... Waited about 45 min. And it started(during the time it would not start i checked battery and its connections checked its voltage which was at 12.8 volts ... I had power in the car.
My headlights were as bright as ever and did not dim or flicker as i tried to turn on the car.. Did not start in those 45 min. to about 1 hour. Today happened again twice.
I banged on the starter both times and it worked like a charm both times ...... So I am thinking its gotta be the starter ... I run to autozone and ask them to test my starter and they said that it was good....
I took my car to our local Phaeton Service Center yesterday (the bottom plate needed to be cleaned so it could pass the obligatory annual technical evaluation). I had the technician perform a few software adjustments (no seatbelt warning, activation of comfort window opening via the remote control, automatic locking and unlocking of the doors) and now when I lock the vehicle the red alarm LED's on the inside of the front doors start to blink for a few seconds, and then stay on (solid red) for about two minutes. After that they start to blink slowly again.
Before yesterday, when I locked the car, the LED's would blink a bit faster for about ten seconds, and would then resume their slow blinking. Is this normal behavior or did something go wrong?
I have a 2009 x5. 29k miles. The car pings going up a hill in sixth gear. I know sixth is not strong enough, I downshift to fifth gear and it does not ping. The car has a three liter engine. In the past, other cars would just wait for me to downshift automatically or manually using the steptronic transmission. Is the timing off? Or is this normal?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 for explorer 4wd 4.0 it won't accelerate. it's fine to 25, but it pings, and won't go over 40. I've changed to the plugs, wires, coil pack and fuel filter. I've also checked the fuel pressure, and it's 65psi. no codes are being set. I've been told plugged cat, but they're welded on, and no way to test them...
View 1 RepliesWhen I drive 30 min the oil temp raises up to 110c and the coolant raises up to the redzone. And when I stop for a red light my front window get fogged all the way I can see barely anything.
Coolant is filled everything is okay. Only sometimes its really low or when the engine almost hit the redzone its a bit empty. No leaks nothing. Now my vds says 2 errors :
Fan 1 blocked
Fan 2 blocked
When the engine is warm the fan doesn't turn on none of them does, today at the local shop the worker did something and they started working but it doesn't turn on now its off and stays off is the fan switch dead? Is it really the the not working that's causing so much heat.
I have a 2000 BMW 323i with 140,000 miles on it, which has intermittent starting problems. This usually occurs after trying to restart the car within 5 to 10 minutes after turning it off. After several attempts and 10 to 15 minutes, the car does always restart. When the problem occurs, the engine does not turn over at all, but the electrical system seems to work. The dealer has been unable to duplicate the problem.
View 3 RepliesI test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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