Phaeton :: Engine Missing / Hesitation Between 1200 And 2800 Rpm - Fault Codes
Jan 25, 2012
What the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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My 2006 W12 has been trouble free since taking delivery over a year and a half and 30K miles ago. Just broke 60K total miles over the weekend and the engine light came on. I have pasted the scan below. I cleared the codes and drove about 500 miles before the MIL reappeared. I have read this thread: [URL] ....
My first question is: Is there any harm in continuing to drive it?
I have visually inspected the secondary air injection system hoses and can't find anything glaring (no kinks, leaks, disconnections). I am open to taking the car to the dealership but I have low confidence in their diagnostic capabilities. I am fine with them doing work once we know what is wrong but I want to tell them what to do (replace a bunch of hoses for example). How to proceed?
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 AJ HW: 000 000 000 00
Component: D1-6.0L-AT-LEV2 G 6722
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ3Z0E5400307
Coding: 0000173
[Code] ....
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We have an 04 v8 phaeton. Hubby just changed timing belt with the blauparts top kit. He rented their tools. When he went to attach the bar it didnt line up. He finally got it all back together and it runs fine. The vag com scares me, though.
Those codes say...
- 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil
on and the other
- 16395 Bank 1 p0011-002 retard setpoint not reached over advanced mil on.
He just ran the scan today and we are leaving on a 1500 mile trip tomorrow. He says he knows it lined up right...im doubting it. We have driven it about 500 miles since he changed it...no problem. I don't want to risk damaging something. Would you take it on a trip with that code?
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I am having trouble with drive ability. It is getting worse with no engine codes. Car idles fine, but misses. While driving and almost any speed. Drove with dealer today and he got a "misfire on 3?"
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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I have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
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Yesterday I filled my V10 with diesel and as soon as I started the engine to leave the petrol station the car seemed to shudder.
I joined the traffic and passed it off intially as poor road surface. But as I joined a queue to enter the motorway I realised it was the engine!
It was sort of surging, or perhaps it's better explained by saying it was dropping, shuddering down from say 800 RPM to around 400 then picking back up again. I revved it to 1000 RPM and it seemed fine, but if I let it drop to idle is carried on leaping and jerking for about another 3 or 4 minutes.
I then entered the motorway and it responded fine and the problem has not come back so far.
What could it be? Missing on one cylinder? Is this going to be problem? Hope not
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Picked up my rx300 on Monday. Got engine and vsc lights on. Tried battery off to reset. Worked for a day then back. Got a code reader and reset. Found a p00016 code? Crankshaft potion/camshaft position bank 1 sensor A correlation ?
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This whole time I thought it was a bad or dirty MAF and it's not as I replaced it 3 times. Car hessitetes and throws a ESP light on so now I think it's problem with abs or brakes.
I have engine code:
-16486 P0102 Air mass meter G70 signal too low
I do have a VF MAF harness extension cause used to be S/C maybe that's why the signal is low, then 2 abs codes:
-01314045 Engine control module (ECM) check DTC memory there isn't much info on this but I heard a lot of people replace their ABS control module cause VW says most have short in them but in ECS tuning they don't have one for R32 like R32 doesn't have it. Does R32 have it.
-00495 ESP - sensor unit, voltage supply
I tried clearing all the codes but comes right back followed by a hesitation.
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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Just reporting following problem that seems to affect most VW TDI engines with DPF - I have just experienced it on my Phaeton - basically as you accelerate you get the engine fault - workshop warning with a flashing coil (glow plug heater lamp) - this is accompanied with reduced performance (no Turbo) in a protect mode, stopping and restarting the engine clears this temporarily. the MIL eventually stays on (performance unaffected until next time the dreaded engine fault appears) - It's a bit scary and if you go to the dealership, they will try to convince you that you need a new sensor and DPF and estimate a cost of 1.5k plus)
I can recommend RD garage services in Shepperton (Richard is an ex VW Phaeton and Touareg Specialist) Richard changed the sensor and performed a forced regen cleared all of the fault codes (the gearbox had even gone into a performance limiting mode due to the faulty exist pressure sensor). All is now well car back to pulling like a train and back to mid 40's mpg on a run.
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My check engine light came on over the weekend. It was not blinking so I am hoping for just a sensor fault or some other inexpensive issue. I am trying to remain hopeful but after having to replace 2 coils and both catalytic converters about 40K miles ago I am really nervous...
I took the car to the shop this morning for diags but what might be causing the problem? It is a 2004 V8 with about 142K miles.
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I was queuing for the Dartford Bridge yesterday, and had been about 20 minutes in crawling traffic, when for the first time ever the DPF indicator came up on the dashboard with a message to check the manual. Then moments later I got the engine fault, workshop alarm which was quite insistent. Reaching the tolls I pulled away and then 'booted' it for a while in sport mode and both indicators disappeared...so I thought I had cleared the problem.
I reached work without incident, but then when I came to restart the car later in the morning, I had the engine fault come up again with a very insistent chime. I phoned my dealer and took it in...the DPF indicator coming up again while in traffic on the way there. The fault has been diagnosed as a faulty diesel particulate sensor, which is now being changed on Monday when the part arrives.
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I picked up a 2007 GS350 AWD with a little under 60K miles a few weeks ago, I've been absolutely loving the car, but noticed the check engine light/check VSC came on this morning on a cold start; it also sounded a bit rough on idle. I have an Android to bluetooth OBDII scan tool for my other cars so I pulled the codes, and it's showing P0300, P1600, P1700, and P1800.
Searched the forums and nothing comes up for those specific codes. But the first couple of things that came up as culprits for check VSC were the gas cap and brake fluid; went out and bought an OEM gas cap and made sure the brake fluid was topped off this afternoon. I reset the faults and drove the car around, but the lights came back on about 15 miles later. It drives and shifts fine, but I still think it's a bit noisy at idle.
A little background on the car: The previous owner only drove it on weekends and for events here and there, hence the relatively low mileage. The car was sitting in his garage for almost a year before I bought it, he finally got rid of it because he wasn't using it. I grabbed it despite a higher asking price because of the mileage and how clean it looked, but now I'm a bit worried. Is this bad gas? Should I flush all of the fluids? MAF or other sensors? I'm a bit lost.
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Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
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My V6 3.0 TDI 2007 car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hiccup in accelerator response from standstill. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recently maintained by VW dealer.
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On start up (Engine cold) my rpm goes to 1200 for about 30 seconds then settles to 650, is this normal ?
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
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