Phaeton :: Engine Doesn't Fire On All Cylinders
Jan 31, 2008
The Phaeton is really a creature of its own. It is not a year since I bought my 2003 W12 and have had it towed three times since. The latest bother is that the engine doesn't fire on all cylinders. The ignition coils have now been replaced on all cylinders, and first it seemed to be fixed but after some thousand kilometers it misfired again. As always on a Sunday on a long trip... the warning lights go on and this time I just drove along despite what the manual says. It wobbled along and after maybe 10 kilometers it get fired on all cylinders again. The warning light is still on though.
Now after having drove the car a couple of shorter runs the ignition works fine and now the warning light, today, wasn't on. So is all well and dandy now? Another little bother, the back door, behind the drivers door, that one cannot be opened. Sometimes it opens sometimes not. No matter how many times you press the "open" button on the remote control, it doesn't open. No matter if you press the button above the inside handle, it doen't open. So, out of the blue, it opens ok! How about that one????
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I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
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No indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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1 out of the 4 cylinders won't fire. The coil, spark plug wire, spark plug, fuel injector, and the wire going to the fuel injector all work.
My dad mentioned it could be a stuck valve, but he doesn't really know much about cars and I have never messed with valves before. If I could manage to get to a valve and it is stuck, do I have to pry on it to unstick it or grease it up? Or does it need replaced?
I forgot to mention that there is no new noises and the FPR isn't showing the fuel line is holding pressure when the car is off, even though I'm pretty sure it used to.
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My 2006, 4.2 has been really erratically not starting. Turns over fine but will sometimes fire up and tries to run on maybe 2 cylinders, then stalls. Now it won't even do that, nothing. No check engine light or codes. Guess what the thing started up this morning 7 degrees out and running like a charm. Turned off and nothing again. Replaced relay for PCM ,no change, still no codes.
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I just noticed that my '05 Phaeton's horn doesn't work when the engine is turned off. It works fine when it's on. Is this normal behavior? If not, does it represent a low battery and the Phaeton magically trying to conserve energy? Or something else?
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The Phaeton is a 2003 6.0 W12 model. The car used to be a demo car and has currently around 80.000 km. It is not equipped with a keyless entry system. I recently put an Xcarlink device to connect my iPod. All the rest is a standard equipment (basically all available at that moment).
The problem with the car started when I could not open from the remote key. I tried to open the driver door, but the never used lock jammed. The only option was opening the trunk using the key. I had to lift the lid using some force against the dumpers, but it worked.
As the both batteries on the car were original 2003 (so went through the showroom period as well) I new that they cause the problem.
I bought two new batteries and replaced them. I proceeded according to the service manual so disconnected the right battery -, right +, left -, left +. I am pretty convinced that I did not blow the battery isolator. The left battery applied is 95Ah in place of 92 before. It has the max current of 800 A in place of 850 A. The right battery is exactly the same specification as before. After testing the old batteries the left one showed current of 2.8V so it was definitely broken. The right one seemed to be OK (12.58V)
After replacing the batteries I could open the car and all the entertainment systems and electronics inside would work except for:
1) The suspension lifting and tire pressure warning lights are on.
2) I cannot start the engine - it does not crank at all even using the emergency mode - two times start and back to accessories mode
3) The trunk lid does not close automatically.
I am getting the car towed to the local VW dealer tomorrow, but I am afraid they will see the Phaeton for the first time in their lives (small Dutch dealer nearby Utrecht), so I am a bit afraid of the car.
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96 sebring 2.5l v6 non-convertibleRan terribly for 12 blocks when I bought it, then died and wouldn't start.Bought it because friend said that mechanic had told him it just needed the head gasket changedReplaced the head gasket then it would crank but not start
checked, getting spark and compression on all 6 cylindersreplaced:-ecm-crank position sensor-combination distributor/camshaft position sensor/coil-flushed fuel system and replaced gas. checked everywhere for possibly misconnected wires and possible misconnected vacuum tubes, they are all triple checked ok. Checked the timing about a dozen times. Checked for misaligned timing sprockets, all ok, no sheared keyways, valves open and close at appropriate times / correct order and crankshaft timing mark matches cyl 1 position.
Fuel pressure is great.Turns over but doesn't fire at all.
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About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
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I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
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I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
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I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
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Ii have a '98 sc2 and its been sitting in my yard for a while. It started out one day when i got in it, turned the key and then it turned over but wasn't starting. We hooked it to a computer and it showed no bad signal so we bought a new computer for my car and that didn't work either. We changed the coil packs and the crank sensor and still nothing.
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
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Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
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I have been having trouble with a hard cold start on my W12. when I go to start the car it will crank and crank I can hear it fire on a few cylinders but is not starting on the first try. It will then fire right up on the 2nd try and is fine when it is warm. I had it into the dealer and the replaced the battery in the key and cleared the misfire codes they also did the coil pack swap. I am still getting the hard starting...
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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I am facing a discouraging situation here w/ my Phaeton: the trunk does not work, the mechanic called it quits and VW Dealership wants $32k and 3-6months in order to replace the car's electrical harness.
So here are some details regarding the problem:
1. It started by not opening the trunk when using the door switch. only the remote key.
2. Then, it wouldn't lock the trunk (it would open all the way and close)
3. After a few more days, it wouldn't open/close the trunk or lock it. (it would work once in a while, and sometimes the trunk would open/close just half way)
4. As or right now, the trunk opens and closes most of the time, but it doesn't lock.
I replaced the trunk hatch(lock), the hydraulic pump that opens and closes it, new battery and fuses. The mechanic worked on it on several occasions doing all the replacements and calibration, computer reset and all that.
I'm guessing it might be an electrical problem, a loose contact or interrupted wire given the nature of the problem (intermittent operation). But I don't know where to start looking...
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My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
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My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
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