Phaeton :: Engine Sputtering Between 1000 - 2000 RPMs - No Fault Codes
Jun 15, 2010
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
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What the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
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Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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Reconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C ( original owner )Mileage 172,000 and I take care of my car. I use full synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles. I noticed a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. It disappears after 2000 RPM's. The Chrysler dealer kept doing repairs and claimed the problem was gone and it is still there. The dealer did a full tune up, induction service and also replaced the EGR valve, gasket and seal. The problem gets worse in higher mountain altitudes.
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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I leased a 2015 Honda CR-V AWD LX on March 11, 2015. The following day I noticed a rough vibration/shuddering/chattering that appeared to be coming from the transmission when the rpms ranged between 1,000 and 2,000. The roughness was evident at any speed (mpgs) when the tachometer reading was between the previously stated range. The service technician reported feeling the same roughness, but noted that the problem was characteristic of the CRV with a CVT transmission. On Tuesday March 17, I went back to the dealer and discussed the problem with the service manager. He also stated that he was aware of that particular problem and that it was peculiar to the 2015 CRV with the CVT transmission. He took my car for a test drive and admitted feeling the chattering. It was also evident to me as I sat in the passenger’s seat. He then took out another new CRV and it too exhibited the same characteristics.
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My 2006 W12 has been trouble free since taking delivery over a year and a half and 30K miles ago. Just broke 60K total miles over the weekend and the engine light came on. I have pasted the scan below. I cleared the codes and drove about 500 miles before the MIL reappeared. I have read this thread: [URL] ....
My first question is: Is there any harm in continuing to drive it?
I have visually inspected the secondary air injection system hoses and can't find anything glaring (no kinks, leaks, disconnections). I am open to taking the car to the dealership but I have low confidence in their diagnostic capabilities. I am fine with them doing work once we know what is wrong but I want to tell them what to do (replace a bunch of hoses for example). How to proceed?
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 AJ HW: 000 000 000 00
Component: D1-6.0L-AT-LEV2 G 6722
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ3Z0E5400307
Coding: 0000173
[Code] ....
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W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
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I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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We have an 04 v8 phaeton. Hubby just changed timing belt with the blauparts top kit. He rented their tools. When he went to attach the bar it didnt line up. He finally got it all back together and it runs fine. The vag com scares me, though.
Those codes say...
- 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil
on and the other
- 16395 Bank 1 p0011-002 retard setpoint not reached over advanced mil on.
He just ran the scan today and we are leaving on a 1500 mile trip tomorrow. He says he knows it lined up right...im doubting it. We have driven it about 500 miles since he changed it...no problem. I don't want to risk damaging something. Would you take it on a trip with that code?
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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IOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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I drive a 2008 Elantra automatic,and have a constant engine shudder/vibration whenever the rpms are between 1000 and1500. The engine shudder stops as soon as I accelerate above 1500 rpms,or take my foot off the gas completely.
The dealer recommended cleaning of the fuel injector system,not sure if thats the course to take.I do know my model has had fuel pump issues,but the dealer has told me all recalls on the car have been processed.
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I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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