When I have my car on the garage for 10 of 15 minutes, playing with it, I normally start the car so I don't drain the battery but I noticed, after 5 minutes or so, the engine does this sound, why. There is no fault on the engine and I don't feel anything weird when driving.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat 1.8 T. When I initially start it up on a cold start I get this load "jet engine" noise which last approx. 2 to 3 minutes. Once the sound stops it sounds like a jet turning off his engines. I do have a check engine light on, but the car seems to work just fine otherwise. No power lose or other problems. What the heck is causing this noise?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 - 2 wheel drive. I have 121,000 miles runs great, uses no oil at all. However, on cold mornings when I start it, there is knocking in the engine for two or three minutes. Is it serious? Is it a weak oil pump? Rod bushings? I had an '01 Tundra with 165,000 miles that never knocked.
View 9 RepliesI've noticed this more on the Phaeton than the last two cars I have owned. When the car is warm and I arrive at my destination and turn the engine off, the engine makes a lot of little pings and pangs for several minutes. Don't know how better to describe the sound. Does this mean anything? Normal?
View 6 RepliesWhile I am driving my Passat randomly shuts off and then will not start for 5 min - a few hours. No beeps or warnings, the car just shuts off. When I try to restart it, everything sounds normal, the engine turns over fine, but it just wont start.
View 4 RepliesMy 1986 celica gts stalls only after the engine has been off for approx. 10 to 20 minutes. It starts fine, but stalls as soon as it starts, unless i keep my foot on the gas for about 5 to 10 seconds. After that it starts and runs fine at all other times. I've changed the coolant temp. sensor, but condition still exists.
View 13 RepliesLast week, the engine stopped twice in the 2 minutes after initial start....but then managed to take me back home. Was away for 1 week (not with TS) then when back , tried to start ...no joy.
This duplicates a similar event 8 years ago...solved with the ignition module being replaced.
[URL] .....
NO codes.
There are 2 options: crank sensor or ignition module. Will go for some tests and will report.
2001 passat, 1.8, manual 140K. Last Wednesday I went to drive south, and i turned the key. The engine cranked but it didn't start. After trying for a few minutes, and the engine stumbling after a few times, the engine started. RPMs were low, but after a few seconds everything was fine. The outside temp was probably 15-20f.
Over the next few days the car sat, except for once where I moved the car (outside temp was 35+), and it started right up. As soon as the temperature dropped to 18 or so, it did the same thing, crank and crank then start. I dont remember if it was then or wednesday when I got a CEL while trying to start the car. I checked it and got a P0321. Cleared it and havent seen it since.
Fast forward to sunday, morning was the same thing, about 10 tries until the engine started. I got a jump start in the afternoon thinking it was the battery. It started right up (temp was 30+?). The next day I decided to roll start it, started right up (temp was 15?).
I replaced the battery monday thinking that was the cause. But everything is the same, when its cold I have to crank and crank. Once the car is running, the RPMs are low. If I give it gas, it stalls. Once the RPMs come up, if I stop the engine, it starts right back up. Thinking it is a fuel problem, I played with the fuse.
Granted, the engine was warm when I did this. Engine running. Pull fuse out, after a few seconds engine stalls. Try to start, no go. Put fuse back in, engine starts right up on first try. So now we go back the CEL. I thought at first it was just a side effect of cranking and cranking the engine. But now I think there might be a problem with a sensor, engine speed sensor maybe? Coolant? crank?
Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
View 4 RepliesI bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
View 8 RepliesSet off for a long journey yesterday and a worrying rattling sound started up. Drove straight to a dealer to be told that a bolt had gone missing from the pulley that serves the water pump. I wonder what they could have done. They have done a temporary fix which enabled my 450-mile journey as they did not have pulley and bolts in stock but parts arrived today. So 8 am tomorrow it is back in for the permanent fix.
After about an hour of yesterday's journey I put wipers on at 70 mph and what turned out to be a torx set bit and holder flicked off wiper over car roof and lodged between boot lid and body (as I discovered when I arrived at destination). Cannot see any damage but dealer will check tomorrow also and he has held his hand up as the culprit after checking toolkit.
I have a 3.0 TDI Phaeton 2006.
One day when i tried to start it on morning it's spinning long time but cannot start. I connected a VAS and there was one ECU error of camshaft position sensor - signal not real. 2nd different thing that I have only communication with 3 modules - ECU, gearbox and dashboard.
I bought a new sensor and change it. No positive results - the same error. I decided to make new wires connection direct to the ECU so i take new wires and connect sensor directly to the ECU. It's also didn't take any effect - the same error.
After days in which I want to burn this car I decided to change shaft speed sensor (RPM sensor) - i took one from my mum's car - it is the same (A6).. There is no error on ECU but it doesn't start also. But now engine trying to start in different way - only 2-3 rotation of engine and stops (before changing shaft speed sensor it was spinning a lot times when trying to start).
I also turn off immo from ECU by BDM100 to be sure that there is no immo problem. How I can find reason why there is no connection with lot of modules ? I checked fuses in 3 places (in trunk, next to the driver legs, and next to ECU). Engine cannot start without communication with airbags but how to find problem with communication.
And the one small thing: before changing sensors when car was dead some injectors was clicking but rarely and not synchronized. After changing sensors (and no errors now) there isn't any noise (clicking) of injectors.
I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
View 12 RepliesYou know the ticking noise that is normal for our engines? Well, below 25 degrees F, it is the most worst noise ever. It sounds like the valve train is going to explode. Just keep in mind I've driven many cars. The ticking noise shouldn't be outrageously loud.
But my main problem that is worrying me is this WHOMP-WHOMP-WHOMP noise. The higher the RPM the faster the noise. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or not and I know it's coming from the engine. I hope it's not related to the loud ticking. It only happens for approximately 5 minutes. After that, there's no WHOMP sound and the ticking goes back to normal sound levels.
My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
Sometimes when I get in the car the infotainment screen dims itself after a few minutes so that the information is barely visible. It usually comes back to life after about ten minutes. The manual mentions dimming the screen but doesn't elaborate. Is there a dimming switch for that screen?
View 3 RepliesHave 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
Today I had been driving about ten minutes when I got a "Check Gas Cap" warning, inclusive of beep and appropriate icon. Pulled over, switched off but left key in (this is equivalent to a warm boot in my experience), opened gas cap and closed again (it was fine). Turned engine on, got same message, remained on until destination (approximately 20 minute drive). Parked and locked car for approximately 2 hours (equivalent to a cold boot). When I turned on the engine again, the message was gone, and remained off for the rest of the day.
The car had been sitting unused in a heated garage for a little over two weeks, and the weather today was nice, sunny, a few degrees above freezing.
In my view, it clearly was not related to the classic "fuel cap not tight enough" problem of modern cars: for one, I had not just refueled (in fact, I have a little over half a tank). Also, I always tighten the cap until I hear at least a few clicks. SO I wonder if it might be an early warning that my maintenance battery is getting weak, i.e. spurious error message triggered by low voltage?
On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
View 2 RepliesNeed to identify this noise? Don't be too alarmed by the engine tick. I had the recorder up close to the engine.
View 3 RepliesI took my car to our local Phaeton Service Center yesterday (the bottom plate needed to be cleaned so it could pass the obligatory annual technical evaluation). I had the technician perform a few software adjustments (no seatbelt warning, activation of comfort window opening via the remote control, automatic locking and unlocking of the doors) and now when I lock the vehicle the red alarm LED's on the inside of the front doors start to blink for a few seconds, and then stay on (solid red) for about two minutes. After that they start to blink slowly again.
Before yesterday, when I locked the car, the LED's would blink a bit faster for about ten seconds, and would then resume their slow blinking. Is this normal behavior or did something go wrong?