Phaeton :: Electric Steering Column Failure / Won't Go Up Or Down
Jan 20, 2014
Looks like I've got the classic electric steering column failure. It still works in and out but won't go up or down. I think it won't go up as the column is at the top of it's travel. I can hear a click from within the column when I press the up button but nothing when I press down. So I've done a quick search but I can't find the post which shows the replacement of the wiring. It's probably me being stupid and it's starring me in the face. Also I've got no warning come up on the dash is this a good thing? I haven't plugged the VCDS in yet I'm not expecting it to show anything.
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Been monitoring this excellent forum for a while, having taken the plunge last year. The car is stunning, although I have been waiting for a gremlin or two for a while now and it finally seems to have happened.
Having set up the driving position using the excellent forum guide, all was well. Last week, however, the steering column failed to move out from the dash to the memorized position. I have tried manually, to no avail. All other motion - up, down and away appear to be normal, just the switch or motor that moves the column towards the driver.
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I am getting an electric sounding click coming from the steering column, ECU area. It does not happen all the time. I heard it when I first got the car and it just started up again.
I am thinking the Unitronics chip I just got is having the ECU relearn everything and that is causing the clicking.
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It's a 2006 2.0 Turbo. It died last night, had it jumped, drove it 2.5 miles to get gas & wha-la ...dead. Since it was late had it towed back to the house (it's just me...no other car available). I've researched until after midnight and started seeing recalls, tsb...and not into anything about cars except counting on them! It started smelling like sulfur after many attempts to charge the battery..
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My parking brake light has been coming on and off for 2 days now. went to the dealership today and on my way there my steering light began to flash. So I guess I can join the steering column failure club. However what faults can the parking throw?
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Electric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
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My V10's steering column has lost the ability to adjust up and down. In and out is still fine though and the position memory works, just for in and out too. I was thinking that a fuse may have gone but I can't see a fuse dedicated to this in the manual. No doubt it'll be something much more complicated than that though.
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I was driving yesterday evening when my car started to cut out, it kept restarting as I was doing 70 on the motorway. So I decided to pull over.
I restated the engine and all seemed fine. Until another few miles down the road To my driveway where it again cut out.
As it stands now it will start but cuts out after a minute or so and will not re start unless I take the key out and keep trying.
I had the car scanned by a mobile mechanic who told me my steering column was the only thing that scanned up. Which made sense because a few days ago an airbag warning came up and stayed up.
I have read up a bit about the steering column on the passats which have the exact same symptoms of cutting out the engine. Could this be the same with the phaeton?
The car is a petrol 3.2 litre that also has an lpg conversion. I don't know if this makes any difference?
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My steering wheel, when pulling away or towards me (reach) is juddery/squeaky. I think its the 'rubber bead/dust seal' under the instrument binnacle rubbing on the plastic steering column shroud as it moves in and out. It works and doesn't sound slow and the motor does not sound under strain, its just noisy as the shroud does not run smoothly against the 'rubber bead'.
Up and down (rake) is quiet.
To lubricate the plastic is silicone lubrication spray the way to go? Or is there another lubricant and/or quick & easy way to get it to not squeak.
Its not a big deal, but it would be nice to have it working properly when I get in and out.
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The electric motor which adjusts the steering wheel position has begun to "rumble"--When I enter the car (keyless entry) and the wheel begins to assume it's pre-set position, a loud grumbling noise occurs. If I then use the switch to readjust the position, I again hear the noise. Is there a way to lubricate the steering wheel (WD-40?) without causing other problems?
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I posted last week that I was getting an intermittent "Steering Failure - Workshop" message on my '04 V-8 Phaeton. I asked forum members if I was alone and no one responded to the post. Last week I made an appointment with my VW dealer to get the car's steering fault looked at but I wasn't fast enough. The other day the car would not let me start it. The 'steering failure workshop' problem doesn't seem to be a mechanical issue. There are two other '04 Phaeton's at my dealer right now with the same problem. It looks like my car will join the party awaiting new steering control modules. The back-order on the modules appears to be at least another three weeks. Funny, you can get an entire Phaeton steering column in two days. If and when this steering module goes south all kinds of fun interior electrical glitches jump on board. No one ever said owning a Phaeton wouldn't be interesting and yes I still plan on keeping it for a very long time.
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On the way home this evening the car, 3.0L TDi of 2006 vintage started making a rather loud and horrible whooooooooooOOOO noise - following the revs of the engine. Pulled in and the power steering failed...well..it came back briefly as the revs increased then went.
What do we think? PS pump? Did it lock causing the belt to make that noise as it couldn't turn the pulley, then die altogether?
Is the PS pump on the same serpentine belt at the front as everything else? I took the engine cover off and could see that the belt was still under what appeared to be normal tension.... What are the pumps like to replace?
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All of my electric door locks failed over the last 3 months. Rear doors first, then passenger front, then, Drivers front and tailgate. All work manually. What would cause this type of cascading failure? Honda dealer said all actuators must be replaced. Another mechanic said the front drivers side controls all doors and that unit must be replace.
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The truck is a 1997 chevy silverado 3/4 ton. Newer battery.Pulled away from curb a few nights ago and it died electrically-so power-no lights -no engine-zip-Jumped it -ran fine another 10 feet then completely dead electrically. Battery shows 13 volts-jumped it again and parked it - when it died I could here a faint electrical noise but no lights or power of any short.
Next day towed to dealer who cannot reproduce the failure after starting it many times and a test drive.I'm thinking new battery cables and cleaning the grounds. I have zero faith in this thing now and I need to haul 10 tons in two weeks with it. It was a complete electrical shut down twice in a row- Never made it 30 feet. If it was alternator the battery would have kept the cap light going-battery is fine -6 month old interstate. I need to track down.
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My father who is elderly, has difficulty disengaging the steering column lock on his 2006 Saturn Vue. I also have experienced this problem even after trying to rock the wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key over. This appears to be a known problem and we have had to tow the Vue in for have the cylinders "de-burred," but the problem persists. He has had many vehicles with this feature in the past, but we have never had any problems before. Does this feature can be disabled. I am afraid he will be stranded some place away from home because he is unable to get the car started. I realize this is an anti-theft device, but it that is a risk we are willing to take.
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My steering column lights are very dim. How do i make them brighter?
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Well I think I am finally getting to the end of my lighting problems. I have them all working except for the lights on the turn signal lever, the windshield wiper lever, the cruse control and the steering wheel. So all the light on the steering column are out. I cannot find a bad fuse. Which fuse it might be, or some other items to check?
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So as some have seen I have been having some startup problems with my Passat (06 2.0T, 40k miles). Took it to the Indy shop near me and he said it was a problem with the steering column lock/Interpol system and he did not have the software to do anything more to it, so I will probably be taking it to vw tomorrow. What does the Interpol system do, etc. literally any info. Also I assume this is an electrical system? Any chance it's covered under extended warranty? Calling vw today to see what they say about it as then probably going to drop it off tonight.
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I have been running into new threads here and other places with the no start/column bad need to replace. Something smells really bad here.
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1992 buick riviera 3.8L
So working on the steering column I had to remove the lock plate. Everything went well with my repair, I have the turn signal switch installed but I can not for the life of me get the lock plate spring pushed down far enough to slip in that little ring. I believe the part I am having trouble with is the top bearing inner race. Here is a link to how this looks exactly on my car.
[URL] ......
AS soon as i took off the spring that pushes the lock plate I noticed this race was just loosely sitting and the steering column just wobbles around. What am I doing wrong?
I did this in this order. I just moved the top bearing inner race as far back as it will go (it still just wobbles around with the steering column). then I put the spring in so that it touches the race. finally I place in the lock plate and compress it with the lock plate tool. However it simply will not compress enough for me to slip in the ring and lock it in place. Am i doing something wrong ? Is there some part of the bearing that should go in before this race?
The picture with the red background is how I am inserting these parts. The spring sits on this race but I cant compress it enough. Like i cant get it aligned properly or something.
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I am driving to work as i do almost everyday but somethin weird happened when i got there... usually i turn my car off when I go into work as everyone does but i guess my car decided it still wanted to run today. I took my key out of the ignition but my car kept running. Luckily I filled up yesterday. I tried pushing the key in and taking it back out a couple times but it just stayed on. With my key out an the car running my MFD would say the steering column lock message but the steering wasn't locked an with the key in the message went away and steering was still free.
So I called my flight to let him know whats going on, since I was already in the parking lot he and a few others come to look and laugh and blame it on the fact its german or blame it on the features they want but dont have. [IMG] [URL] ..... but i the end it had something to do with the remote wire going to my amp?? I am not sure how but my flight chief thought to unplug it and my car just shut off. I am still wondering how a remote wire to my amp could keep my car running without the key. I've had the stereo system in over a year and its never done this..
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