Flickering low beam lights for several weeks and I decided to change both bulbs, pretty straight forward job, some 30 minutes for each side but when I went for a drive I noticed that ESP warning light on all the time, looked in the manual, tried to turn it on / off, no change. I can't believe there's a connection between changing the bulbs and ESP?
View 2 RepliesMy wife was driving down our street today, a two way street, narrow at best of times. On one side a monster snow pile ( 6-7ft high), the other side a very big truck coming at her, minimal passing room, like almost touching her mirrors.
The warning lights on both sides went from green to yellow and red ...beeping all the time. The Phaeton stalled. Not once or twice, but four times !!
Question : did the engine stall because of the red beeping lights on both sides sensed imminent danger ? ...... and she kept on going. She thinks so.
I have one TPMS sensor that incorrectly tells me I have a flat when I do not. I presume the sensor is faulty because the wheel was moved to the rear as part of a recent service and the problem moved with the wheel.
What I find peculiar is that the flat tire warning comes at virtually the same time when I drive, about ten or so minutes into the journey, and leaves about five minutes later, usually not to return. Indeed, when I occasionally drive the car to work, I know when the signal will come on, within about .25 mile.
Well this past week I have been getting the ESP light lit in my cluster during my weekly commutes. 1st: My car is a 2005 05 V8 model with 96K miles. The ESP light resets every time when the car is turned off and comes on after driving (varies), no hard CEL triggering with the condition. I notice yesterday that the ESP light comes on faster when I am coming up a hill. Yesterday when I started out on flat ground the light was off most of the trip (about 10 miles), it wasn't until I hit the hill on my way home that it illuminated (the final mile of my trip). One other major symptom, the Cruise Control does not "SET"; Cruise turns on and I see the indicator in the cluster, but when I hit the set function, it doesn't set the speed control. This happens both before and after the ESP light illuminates.
I have a VAD Pro and I ran a scan, both at the halt and on the move, the ESP light does NOT throw out a DTC in the ABS module or any others. However, their is one persistent fault that reoccurs (00526), faulty brake light switch; the Ross Tech site stated this is normal in some Automatic transmissions; if you do not push the brake pedal before the scan. My brake lights work fine & I understand their is two sets of contacts in the switch. Again, this DTC (00526) does not set the CEL. But, I am not ruling out a faulty brake light switch.
I performed a Goggle search and found an Audi A8 with an ESP issue, one of the members pointed to hydraulic unit under the hood , here is the link. [URL] ....
This A8 owner says a new brake light switch fixed his vehicle, and the cruise control was also not working as a symptom. [URL] ....
My '04 V8 had been sitting unused for about a week. As I backed out of my garage the airbag warning chime and symbol illuminated. I have gone through many start cycles and added about 200 miles since its onset but the warning persists. I have a drive by with my VW tech Monday for a code read.
View 16 RepliesFor the first time in 3 years the emissions light (yellow engine icon) is on. Have 88k miles so guess I'll have it checked out at 90,000. Is it ok to run it that long?
View 12 RepliesI just got the Air Bag Fault light and warning on my display for my 2006 Phaeton. I have not seen any posts on this topic doing a keyword search. This happened the day after I got back to my car at the airport parking and found a cracked windshield that is $825 for the glass alone. Not a good week so far.
View 9 RepliesMy exhaust system warning light came on this afternoon. Think the cars needs to be parked until I can get it to the dealer.
View 8 RepliesI have had my Phaeton for 5 years, and every time I start it, the Depress Foot Brake light (amber) next to the R on gear shift always flashed. I assumed it did to tell me to press on the brake to shift gear. Well, two days ago I could not get my car started. Had to get a tow to VW dealer (48 miles) because a jump start did not work. After I checked in with ticket writer, he went to my car and (yeah, guess what?) inserted the key and started it. He called me out to the delivery spot to show me the light. He said it is not supposed to flash, but comes on steady. Bottom line is, I drove it home with no charge to me (except for tow job), and today I went out and again it would not start.
It was too late to get it towed. I was told by ticket writer that perhaps I had something slip down into the gear area, which might interfere with a sensor. Is there something else I should look for? By the way, a true confession, the night before the first trouble, I was curious and inserted my key into the flashlight hole to check on its depth to see if it does charge the flashlight, and when doing so, it caused a spark (I know, that was STUPID!). Could this have caused my starting problems? When I insert key to start, I get the message Move Gear Shift to P/N position.
I have a warning light on dashboard and bleep saying "Workshop Exhaust" and showing orange engine icon.
This first happened when I bought the car in November 2014, then went off after about two days, but is becoming more frequent two or three times a month.
I travel about a mile and a half to work each day, and have a longer run usually once a month, I have been told to select 3rd gear and when warm to drive for perhaps 10 miles to clear any build up of emissions.
Why my Phaeton cannot tell me which lightbulb has failed when Mrs AG's Audi A4, which is older, can? It just says check light and more often than not, goes off again after a couple of days as in the latest episode. Am I missing something, or is that just the way it is? I do not have a VCDS.
View 7 RepliesI'm cruising around and noticed the engine icon warning light go on and stay illuminated. The manual says it is an "exhaust system problem" like an oxygen sensor, and to reduce speed and have the engine checked at a VW service department. I would like to drive back to Evanston (Autobarn) tomorrow but it is about 90 miles from here. I restarted the car in the hopes of it just being a glitch but the light remains lit. Can I do any damage by driving 90 miles. The car seems to still run fine but I am concerned about a breakdown because I have to travel through a few rough areas.
View 16 RepliesJust got my car back from it's recent service. The trunk wire harness was replaced under extended warranty. I noticed a light bulb emblem on my front center screen but continued on to the grocery. Upon starting car after leaving grocery I received a "check lights" warning on that screen for several seconds. Since the chain of events have been
1) Repair TPMS control module, and this leads to
2) Repair motor that raises rear privacy shield which led to
3) All 5 tire sensors needing replaced, which led immediately to
4) Trunk harness needing replaced and now I have this light issue.
I've literally left the car dealership after the last 3 services with new problems to deal with.
Yesterday my light went on for the exhaust warning. Does this mean I should now drive with a window open? And how serious can it be? Also, about 2 months ago I was told I need a serpentine belt. Would this have anything to do with the light coming on? You see, last time I wrote in here, I was told I needed new front brake pads and rotors. I was told from folks here that the dealer's quote was 2X what it should be, so I am hesitating to go back to same dealer.
View 24 RepliesI've been able to get some serious attention from VW to my problematic W12 2003. It's a long story, so just the latest; the diagnosis indicated that there is some problem with the momentum transformer (maybe not the right term) in the drive line.
Now, I remember faintly having read something about cases where the warning light falsely indicated this problem. Do I remember correctly?
Ever since I bought my 04 V8, the TPMS warning light has been on due to dead sensors and a disconnected controller (G model controller), and I had just learned to live with the alert and the icon on the display for the time being. Last weekend I installed a 6 button cruise control switch and recoded per Michael's instructions. The switch works fine and everything was good. After a couple of drives with the new switch I noticed that the TPMS was not giving me the usual failure message or the fault icon anymore. If I hit the Vehicle button I still get the same fault message in the J523 screen but no warning in the cluster, and no warning upon startup. Ran a VCDS scan and the errors for the TPMS module not being there are still present as they always were.
View 4 Replies2004 v8 phaeton. I have the brake warning light flashing, and the message
BRAKE. BRAKE FLUID. STOP CAR. Have checked the level, O.K. And have tried to flush the system by bleeding the brakes. no positive results.
Earlier today my exhaust system warning light came on and stayed on. I am due for a 5 hour road trip tomorrow. I have 65K miles.
View 2 RepliesThere are a few threads on a sticking parking brake resulting in the warning light remaining on. Mine has developed to a stage that it requires a toe under the foot pedal every time to silence the alarm.
I finally stuck my head in the footwell this morning to look at the mechanism, expecting to see a strained spring. However there was no spring in evidence and I saw that when the parking break is released, the cable remains with some free play above the contact point with the pedal: i.e. there is no tension on the cable when the pedal is released, there is about 15mm of "free cable", leaving the pedal almost "floppy".
Observations
1) The pedal has no spring to return to it's correct position. Based on self study guide SSP_277 this is not as it should be as on page 37 this discusses a spring mechanism in the pedal
2) I would image there should be tension in the cable even when released; I feel the rear mechanism requires inspection as there are springs there.
3) While the parking brake works fine, It has a lot more travel that it previously had. Thus something is worn, stuck, or the self adjusting mechanism is not working.
4) For the record, car has 110K miles, the temperature is above freezing, the behaviour is not weather dependent and the parking brake has been routinely used (2008 car).
5) My recollection from new is the parking brake was released with a significant spring action: quite abruptly.
About three times in the last month the Brake Fluid Warning Light has come on as I merge from one freeway to another, taking a curve at about 60 mph. After about 20 seconds the light goes out. I do have brakes while the light is on.
I imagine this is a case of the brake fluid being a little low and the sensor coming on when the fluid shifts as I round the curve? Car is going in for 40k service early next week and will have them look at...
I had the drivers side rear wheel bearing replaced and now the ABS warning light is on. The shop also replaced the wheel speed sensor. The car appears to drive fine and the brakes work fine, although without ABS. The light does not come on immediately upon start up. It normally will appear after the car is driven a bit, could be a few hundred yards or a mile.
My first thought is that whatever it is that serves as a "trigger" for the speed sensor got damaged during bearing replacement. I don't know what this trigger is, or exactly where it is located, presumably in the hub.