Phaeton :: EPC Light Illuminated / Engine Will Not Crank
Jun 15, 2012
Currently my parents, who borrowed my phaeton, are stranded with an EPC light, no crank (no attempt to crank) and apparently no other symptoms. They are ~100 miles from a VW dealer.
Phaeton : 2004 V8, ~80K miles, regularly serviced
Car has been stored for a few months and rarely driven (bad gas?). The transmission needs to have software updates/fluid change (has the shuttering issue)
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Wifes F150 was turned off while she went shopping when she came out it would not start would crank but would not run. Got it home hooked up my scanner, had no codes, but the Service Engine Soon was illuminated on dash. Just wondering if this has anything to do with the PCM. Has a 4.6L engine, 2X4.
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My mothers 2004 Volvo S40 (original body style) has an illuminated check engine light. Dad took it to their local dealer. Unable to get a code from the cars computer and guessing the problem might be with the fuel filler cap seal, the dealer sold them a new fuel filler cap, offering them a refund on the cap should that solution not work. It did not.
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I just made my first payment last friday and today my check engine light is illuminated. I did have one of those awful cold, knocking starts the other day!
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The other night after starting the car I noticed that the dashboard was not illuminated. When I moved the headlight switch to the "headlight" setting from the "automatic" setting--the dashboard lights went on.
When I moved the switch back to automatic, the dashboard lights went off again. Adjusting the intensity using the appropriate switches did nothing. An hour later everything worked normally once again.
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I have a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid with 95,000 miles. Today I drove to the top of Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park (this is at about 11,500 feet). At the top I was attempting to parallel park and the trouble began. I slowed and stopped the vehicle and shifted in to reverse. I put my foot on the accelerator to back up and the car started rolling forward. I looked at the gear indicator and the R was lit up but the D was also lit up and the Check Engine Light had illuminated and the car would not move at all. I shut off the vehicle and turned it back on and was able to shift in to Drive and drive away but the Check Engine Light was still on. No other problems with the driving, car sounds and feels the same. I drove off the mountain back in to the Denver area without any problems and was able to parallel park. Check Engine Light is still on - what might be going on. I do need an oil change shortly, but I don't know if that would cause these issues.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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Following a storm last week, my car had a completely discharged convenience battery. The carpet in the driver's (RHS) footwell was soaked, and I vacuumed out about a pint of water. The right front sunroof drain was blocked, so I massaged the duckbill valve and got this working again. The carpet is now completely dried out.
I fully recharged the battery using a mains charger, but two days later it was flat again. I ran a VCDS scan, found and reset lots of fault codes for low battery. I then discovered that the trunk lights were not turning off when the trunk lid closed, hence the battery discharge. The measuring block for trunk lights shows 0% however. The power trunk lid operates correctly from all switches and the remote.
All other vehicle functions seem to be working OK. I have removed the fuse for the trunk lights temporarily, but obviously would like to get them working properly again.
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Following a storm last week, my car had a completely discharged convenience battery. The carpet in the driver's (RHS) footwell was soaked, and I vacuumed out about a pint of water. The right front sunroof drain was blocked, so I massaged the duckbill valve and got this working again. The carpet is now completely dried out.
I fully recharged the battery using a mains charger, but two days later it was flat again. I ran a VCDS scan, found and reset lots of fault codes for low battery. I then discovered that the trunk lights were not turning off when the trunk lid closed, hence the battery discharge. The measuring block for trunk lights shows 0% however. The power trunk lid operates correctly from all switches and the remote.
All other vehicle functions seem to be working OK. I have removed the fuse for the trunk lights temporarily, but obviously would like to get them working properly again.
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Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
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Coming home from spring break towing the TT, the Check Engine light illuminates. Seems to be sputtering at idle, but otherwise OK, so we continued home.
Scanner lists the P0171 and P0174 codes. Ok, where to begin? based on internet info, started by cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. When I pulled apart the intake, noticed that the grommet which feeds the MAF in the air intake had become separated letting air bypass the MAF. Hence the reason for the codes.
If you get these codes, check the grommet for the wires feeding the MAF in the air intake to make sure it hasn't become separated from the intake. No more codes.
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Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
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I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
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Quick question regarding the daytime running lamps. It appears there is no difference when the DRL's are on or when the front headlamps are illuminated at night. Even if I turn the switch to off, and the DRL's are on, it looks no different then when the headlights are on. Is this normal? Are the DRL's just the headlamps turned on or are they normally the small incandescent light as found on lesser VW's?
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Drove to work had no issues, went to leave & noticed that the dash lights didn't light as normal when I turned the key over, then tried to start but it just cranked, checked the fuses all good under the dash & hood.
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I have a 2003 Montana which has the airbag light illuminated. Also no matter if the seat belt is locked in or not - no seat belt light ever comes on. I have a code scanner but it doesn't scan airbag codes.
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I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.
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I just recent bought a 2012 Toyota Camry LE and it seems to have had fog lights installed (not stock ,as far as my research has proven) and the LED on the switch is green and never shuts itself off. I'm not sure if this is normal. I have a decent mechanical background and never see anything other than security lights on when the key if off and out of the ignition. Seems like it may be a little wrong wiring. I checked the DIY OEM install of the fog lamps, but nothing there stood out to me as a cause for the light to remain on.
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On my `87 Caprice Classic 305 the brake warning light came on so I topped off the fluid but the light remains on. Brake peddle travel is good and my car has good braking. Am wondering what else triggers the warning light to illuminate.
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Had the dealer do my brakes and oil change today (sat). Since I couldn't get back before mid day closing, I had them lock the keys inside. When I picked it up, I noticed the CRUISE light was illuminated on the dash, however, it won't go off when you press the ON/OFF button on the steering wheel, and further, it isn't functioning. You cannot set a speed, etc, the lights around the speedo don't go on, etc. They mentioned that they left the key in the on position, and drained the battery, and needed to recharge it. Wondering (i) why this happened? Thought the T2 would disconnect the power if it detected a drain, and (ii) why recharging bat might have caused this.
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The emission light on the dash illuminated. The car has around 2K miles. What would trigger this signal? I have been using the premium gas. Is it now dangerous to drive? Are emissions covered by the warranty?
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